Turkish owned La Bouche has an intimate French atmosphere.
By Alan Skontra
Hoboken residents who prefer sitting and sipping lattes and espressos in small, intimate cafes to the hustle and bustle of chain coffee shops on Washington Street now have a new option.
La Bouche Cafe, on Newark and Garden, is open for business.
Though it has a French name—la bouche means mouth—the cafe has more exotic roots. Owner Ezra Yuzer moved to the United States in 2009 after owning several restaurants in Istanbul, Turkey.
“It’s not just French,” she said, “it’s Mediterranean.”
The cafe looks more like a bedroom than a place of business, with a pastel color scheme, vintage cabinets, elegant light fixtures and comfortable seating, including padded chairs and benches, and plenty of pillows. There is also outdoor seating.
In addition to serving several styles of coffee, La Bouche has a chalk-drawn blackboard menu that features breakfast fare such as omelets, croissants and bagels, as well as salads, sandwiches and panini wraps. Most of the meal items are priced in the $5 to $8 range.
Yuzer said after moving to New York she started looking in Hoboken for a spot to open La Bouche both because she thought the location was ideal and that the city could use a such a cafe.
“It’s good,” she said. “We have a lot of regular customers.”
Have a tip on a business opening, closing or relocating in Hoboken? Email alanskontra@hotmail.com, and check back every Monday for the latest news on the Business Beat.
Culinary indulgences come easy to the traveler, especially when it comes to something sweet. Most destinations have at least one signature dessert – that one confection that they do so well; that certain dish that has history in every bite. Here are six cities and their famous desserts to try:
Turkish Delight in İstanbul
Ali Muhiddin Hacı Bekir was the most famous of all Ottoman confectioners. He came to İstanbul from the mountain town of Kastamonu in 1777 and opened a shop in the Old City where he concocted delicious boiled sweets and the translucent jellied jewels known to Turks as lokum – and to the rest of the world as Turkish Delight. Today, locals still buy their lokum from branches of the business he began over two centuries ago.
The flagship store of Ali Muhiddin Hacı Bekir is located near the Spice Bazaar. There are also stores on İstiklal Caddesi and in the produce market at Kadıköy. A more recent family dynasty has been established at Herşey Aşktan, opposite Pera Palace Hotel. Its delicious Turkish Delight can be packaged in decorative boxes, creating a perfect gift to take home to friends and family.
Cheesecake in New York
Sure, cheesecake, in one form or another, has been baked and eaten in Europe since the 1400s. But New Yorkers have appropriated its history in the form of the New York-style cheesecake. Immortalized by Lindy’s restaurant in Midtown, (which was opened by Leo Lindemann in 1921) the version served there – made of cream cheese, heavy cream, a dash of vanilla and a cookie crust – became wildly popular in the ’40s. Junior’s, which opened on Flatbush Ave in Brooklyn in 1929 (and more recently in Midtown) makes its own famous version of the creamy cake with a graham-cracker crust.
Gelato in Florence
During Renaissance and 16th-century Florence, two cooks made ice-cream history: Ruggeri, a chicken farmer who made it to the culinary big time thanks to a sorbet he made for Catherine Medici; and Bernardo Buontalenti, a well-known architect who produced a frozen dessert based on zabaglione (a dessert of whipped egg yolks, sugar and sweet wine) and fruit. Both are considered founding fathers of Italy‘s gelato culture. You’ll usually be asked if you want panna (cream) with your ice cream. A good call is si.
Florentines take their gelato seriously. There’s a healthy rivalry among the local gelaterie artigianale (makers of handmade gelato), who all strive to create the creamiest, most flavorful and freshest product in the city. Flavors change according to what fruit is in season. Three of our favorites are: Gelateria dei Neri (semifreddo-style; cheaper than its competitors; wild flavors like gorgonzola); Gelateria Vivoli (tubs only – eat in the pretty piazza nearby); and Grom (a newcomer using many organic ingredients).
via How Sweet It Is: Destinations And Their Desserts | FoxNews.com.
Celebrate Eid al-Fitr, a three-day holiday that marks the end of the holy month of Ramadan
Good Eating staff Chicago Tribune
Today Muslims around the world celebrate Eid al-Fitr, a three-day holiday that marks the end of the holy month of Ramadan. The tradition calls for family and friends to go house to house visiting and enjoying festive meals both sweet and savory.
To commemorate the food-rich holiday, we’ve compiled a few recipes to help you celebrate. But remember, the options for a Middle Eastern feast are endless.
Pistachio baklava
Preparation time: 35 minutes
Cooking time: 50 minutes
Cool down: 1 hour
Serves: 35 pieces
Note: Adapted from a recipe from Hamdi restaurant in Istanbul.
Ingredients:
13 sheets thawed phyllo dough
11/2 sticks (3/4 cup) plus 2 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted
1 3/4 cups shelled, chopped pistachios
Sugar syrup:
11/2 cups sugar
1 cup water
1. Heat oven to 350 degrees. Keep phyllo dough sheets covered with a damp towel as you work. Layer eight sheets of phyllo dough in a buttered 13-by-9-inch baking pan, brushing each layer with butter. Spread the chopped nuts evenly over the top layer. Top with five more sheets of dough, buttering each layer. Cut into squares or diamond shapes to mark dough without cutting all the way through. Bake until golden brown, about 50 minutes.
2. For the sugar syrup, mix the sugar and water in a saucepan over medium-high heat. Heat to a boil; lower heat to a simmer. Cook, stirring, 10 minutes. Let cool; pour mixture over the baklava. Set baklava aside to cool at least 1 hour. Cut into pieces.
Nutrition information per piece: 130 calories, 52 percent of calories from fat, 8 g fat, 3 g saturated fat, 12 mg cholesterol, 14 g carbohydrates, 2 g protein, 35 mg sodium, 1 g fiber.
Saffron-perfumed mussel soup
via Eid al-Fitr celebrations: Ramadan ends in feast-filled bliss – chicagotribune.com.
Istanbul Mediterranean Grill in Agawam brings a new dining experience — Turkish cuisine — to Western Massachusetts.
It’s a style of cookery that’s clearly derivative of Mediterranean tradition, seeming more dialect than separate language, gastronomically speaking. Lamb, yogurt, cheese, eggplant, and various nutmeats are commonly encountered ingredients, while herbs like mint, oregano, and parsley play important flavoring roles.
Open since early this year, Istanbul Mediterranean Grill offers an attractive dining environment — linen, plenty of booths, generously spaced layout.
The menu is extensive, listing dozens of different appetizers, main dishes, and combination plates.
Entrees include a large selection of “kebabs” (grilled items), such as Adana Kebab (seasoned ground lamb — $14.95), Tavuk Sote (sauteed chicken in wine cream sauce – $11.95), Chicken Shish Kebab ($11.95), and Istanbul Sauteed Shrimp ($17.95).
Vegetarian specialties like Bamya (sauteed okra –$11.95), Vegetable Musakka ($9.95), and a Falafel Dinner ($8.95) are available as well.
Mezze (small dishes) are important to most Near Eastern cuisines, and Istanbul Mediterranean Grill features a large selection of both hot and cold mezze options.
These include Humus ($4.95), Haydari (thick yogurt flavored with garlic and dill — $4.95), Cacik (cold cucumber soup — $4.95), and Kalamar Tava (fried calamari with garlic walnut sauce — $7.95).
Various salads and soups round out the menu roster.
We started our meal with an order of Sigara Boregi ($7.95), fat, spring-roll-style rollups stuffed with a tangy mixture of feta cheese, parsley, and dill.
The four-roll portion was large enough for sharing, and the contrast of fried yufka pastry (a thicker version of phyllo) and creamy filling made for a pleasure introduction to what followed.
Lamb Shish ($16.95), one of the menu’s “kekab” selections, reminded us of a traditional shish kebab deconstructed, with tender lamb cubes served over rice and a grilled green pepper and half tomato plated alongside.
The lamb had been lightly seasoned before being broiled; the meat was pleasingly moist with a subtle spice presence.
Two different rice variations, a pilaf and a spiced rice inhabited the plate, as did grated carrot, a raw onion relish, and shredded, lightly pickled red cabbage slaw.
The portion was generous to a fault — much more than we were able to finish.
Lahmacun (flatbread) is a Levantine cousin of pizza, consisting of a thin crust covered with toppings like spiced meats, minced vegetables, or cheeses.
Istanbul Mediterranean Grill offers variations topped with sucuk (cured sausage), ground beef, and spinach; we decided to try Peynirli Pide (cheese pie — $9.95).
Structurally a cross between a pizza and a calzone, the “pie” was topped with kashar (a cheese akin to mild cheddar).
The crust was tender yet crisp; garnished with black and white sesame seeds, it worked together with the cheese filling in a way we found much to our liking.
A garnish of lettuce and sliced tomatoes lent color to the plate.
Istanbul isn’t licensed, but welcomes patrons who “bring their own.” An assortment of non-alcoholic drinks is available, including Turkish favorites like Ayran (cold yogurt beverage — $2.50).
In addition to featuring Turkish-style Baklava ($5.95), which is less sweet than the Greek version, Istanbul offers several other traditional Turkish desserts.
Made with shredded filo, Kunfee ($7.95) is a flat, oven-baked “cake” stuffed with a layer of mozzarella, drizzled with fragrant syrup, and dusted with minced pistachios.
Served warm, it was a dessert creation than won us over with the first forkful.
We’re not usually enamored of rice pudding, liking neither its bland character nor grainy texture.
Sutlac ($4.95), Istanbul’s Turkish-style rice pudding, made us into converts, however. We loved its soft, creamy texture and luscious vanilla flavor.
Both desserts, we found, were paired up perfectly with cups of strong, espresso-like Turkish Coffee ($2.80).
At lunch Istanbul Mediterranean Grill offers a selection of sandwiches and wraps, all of which are priced at $7.95. Ten or so luncheon combination plates are also available weekdays until 3 p.m.
Name: Istanbul Mediterranean Grill
Address: 365 Walnut Street Extension, Agawam
Phone: (413) 786-0141
Hours: Sunday through Thursday, 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.; Friday and Saturday 11 a.m. to 11 p.m.
Entree Prices: $8.95 – $18.95
Credit Cards: American Express, Discover, MasterCard, Visa
Handicapped Access: Accessible, with rest rooms equipped for wheelchairs
Reservations: Not normally taken
via Restaurant review: Istanbul Mediterranean Grill in Agawam | masslive.com.
Before flying off to Istanbul the other week, I spent about 17 days nonstop on the internets researching places in Turkey where we could go exploring for a few days afterward. And that just left me thoroughly addled, to the point that I got on the plane with no plans beyond leaving it up to my consort to choose a destination from about 53 tantalizing possibilities. Which is how we found ourselves on a Sunday afternoon at the Izmir airport with nothing but a just-bought map, no guidebook, not even a phrase book.
It was around lunchtime, so while Bob got the rental car I ran upstairs to the information booth to naively ask for a restaurant recommendation on the way to Sirince, a charming little village that seems to be generating all the buzz this summer (“like Italy with an edge”). The attendant just looked at me and said: “On Autoban. Burger King.” I gave him a good belly laugh, but he didn’t get the joke. Why would I want that there?
So Bob, uncharacteristically mellow on an empty stomach, just started driving and, when he spotted a roadside cafe with picnic area, pulled over instantly without even consulting Ms. Finicky. And this plate was only part of the reward for letting serendipity be the guide.
The cafe was actually also a meat market, with a case filled with various mezes and also racks loaded with lamb and chicken and even some whole fish. The woman at the cash register steered us toward a cucumber-yogurt spread, some hot roasted peppers and a roasted eggplant-tomato salad, then persuaded Bob to order more than one little lamb chop.
We went outside and chose a table under the trees (where the temperature was about 30 degrees lower with the breeze) and she soon brought a tray with our mezes all gussied up with lemon slices and black olives, plus a basket of bread and a bottle of water. All three appetizers were exquisite, real home cooking done with both care and finesse. And then she delivered the chops.
I can’t stomach lamb because it usually tastes too much like the deer meat of my childhood. But we almost fought over these guys; the meat was subtly flavored, tender and beautifully grilled. All the unexpected accoutrements were also cooked just right. And I think the tab was all of 26 Turkish lira, or about $15. (I can’t decipher the receipt to give the name of the place beyond Zigana Et, on the highway from Izmir to Aydin.)
A couple of days later we tried another roadside cafe, more of a truck stop, and if the frozen beef kebabs were a little chewy and the cheese plate pretty processed, the whole experience was so much more satisfying than any Burger King. I’m usually a sucker for guidebooks, but there’s something to be said for taking a holiday from them, at least in a country where you can still pull off the highway and eat real food off an actual plate.
Photo by Regina Schrambling
via The Epi-Log on Epicurious.com: Road Food, Turkish Style.
Among the world’s great kitchens, Turkish cooking may be more mauled than even Mexican when cooked off its home turf. Nearly every major city in the world has a mediocre kebab stand that is a sad substitute for the brilliantly regional cuisines of Turkey. This is why I always show up in Istanbul with a carefully plotted meal plan — the dearth of really good Turkish restaurants outside of Turkey means there are just so many dishes I don’t want to miss eating again before I go home.
Photographs by Orhan Cem CetinThe dining room at chef Didem Senol’s Istanbul restaurant Lokanta Maya.
Most of the places on my standing list, including Zubeyir Ocakbaþy (Bekar Sokak 28; 011-90-212-293-3951), Ciya Sofrasi (Caferaga Mah Guneslibache Sk. No.43; 011-90-261-330-3190) and Hunkar (Mim Kemal Öke Caddesi 21; 011-90-212-225-4665), are simple spots serving terrific traditional Turkish food. (Hunkar actually specializes in Ottoman cooking.). But since the city’s restaurant scene has boomed — a reflection of the thriving Turkish economy — several local chefs have opened up places that serve inventive contemporary Turkish cooking to sophisticated younger Istanbulers who want food that’s local but light and healthy and offered up in a stylish setting. Many of these new takes on the Turkish kitchen are unfortunately also pricey, tourist-oriented spots where you’re paying a premium for a view.
The white bean salad at Lokanta Maya.
A year ago, however, the chef Didem Senol, who studied at New York’s French Culinary Institute, opened Lokanta Maya (Kemankes Caddesi No.35/A; 011-90-212-252-6884), a strikingly good-looking contemporary Turkish table in the Karakoy neighborhood. It’s since become not only one of the hippest and most popular spots in town but a delicious template for a new style of Istanbul restaurant, one with an indigenous but modern menu, excellent service and seriously good food. Eager to try it on a recent trip, I could only score a seat at the service bar on a busy Friday night — putting me more or less in the staff’s way — but a terrific waiter nonetheless took the time to explain the entire menu. It’s an appealing mix of Turkish and eastern Mediterranean dishes mostly made with organic produce and showcasing Senol’s vast knowledge of regional Turkish cuisine and her passion for the cooking of the Aegean coast.
My meal began with Cypriot halloumi cheese grilled inside of grape leaves and served with a garden chutney of sliced scallions, crushed roasted hazelnuts, cucumber and tomato. Next, crispy golden zucchini fritters came cooked in hazelnut oil and served with minted yogurt dip. Both starters were excellent, and during the pause that proceeded my main course I sipped a pleasant Turkish Umurbey sauvignon blanc by the glass and watched the restaurant fill up with a handsome, mostly local crowd who filled the Danish-modern-inspired tables and eyeballed the wall covering of walnuts inside of chicken wire. When it arrived, my slow-roasted lamb was succulent, spoon tender and served on bed of rice pilaf bright with sumac berries, currants, Turkish cranberries and pine nuts.
Concluding with a mastic-gum pudding under a red-berry coulis, I couldn’t help but think that if the New York restaurateur Danny Meyer were to do a Turkish restaurant it would look and taste a lot like Lokanta Maya. I liked this place so much, in fact, that I wasn’t disappointed the following night when Turkish friends picked me up to take me to a wonderful new restaurant for dinner and, well, guess where I ended up? This time I got to try the caramelized sea bass with oranges that I’d been eyeing as a main course when the waiter suggested the lamb. As it turns out, both are superb.
via Eurofile | Istanbul’s Latest Hot Table – NYTimes.com.