Tag: Topkapi Palace

  • A single ticket to Istanbul: Joining solo travellers to discover Turkey’s cultural heart

    By ELINOR GOODMAN

    It seemed a strange way to end a day when I had deliberately dressed modestly and covered my head every time I entered a mosque.

    I was lying on a hot slab, wearing little more than two triangular handkerchiefs, tied up a with a shoe lace, and a pair of shorts, as I was pummelled by a young man wearing a table cloth round his waist.

    I was in one of Istanbul’s oldest Turkish baths, built in the 16th Century for Suleiman the Magnificent. In those days, the hamams were single sex, but modern Turkey wears its Islam lightly. All around me couples sweated like kebabs on a grill.

     

    Waterside spectacle: The Blue Mosque in Istanbul is one of its most iconic sights

    On the next slab was Carmel, an Irish women on the same weekend break as me.

    It was a singles holiday not – as the Friendship Travel brochure stressed – a dating holiday, but one in which people who don’t happen to have a travelling companion can meet up with other like-minded people, and do things together when they want.

    I was glad to have a companion to go to the Suleymaniye Hamam, not least because neither women or men are allowed in on their own, but also to tell me when my handkerchiefs were slipping.

    A folk music troupe performs at Topkapi PalaceLocal colour: A folk music troupe performs at Topkapi Palace

    We stayed at an extremely comfortable Senatus Hotel in the centre of the old town, and we all had double rooms to ourselves.

    There were five other travellers in the group. The three other women were in their 50s and had chosen the holiday because, to varying degrees, they were apprehensive – wrongly as it turned out – about exploring Istanbul on their own.

    There was also a retired teacher and another man in his 30s who was, I suspect, disappointed with the age of his companions. We were introduced the first morning by our ‘hostess’, Mel, who said it was up to us to decide whether or not we wanted to do things together.

    We set out together for the Blue Mosque, which, from the outside, looked pretty grey at the end of February. Inside it was breathtaking. The central dome rests on cascading smaller domes, and the walls are lined with patterned blue green and white tiles.

    The light is filtered through stained-glass windows so it changes from blue to shades of pink during the day. It was commissioned at the start of the 17th Century by Sultan Ahmet who, 150 years after the Ottomans took over Constantinople from the Christians, was determined to show that anything the Byzantines could do, he could do better.

    In Istanbul you are constantly reminded you are on the cusp of Europe and Asia – geographically and historically. When we entered the Grand Bazaar the men drifted off. The bazaar is not as intimidating as the one in Marrakech.

    More…

    • Detox or decadence: Fighting temptation on a ‘healthy’ spa escape to luscious Lombardy
    • Feeling like a Hollywood A-lister on Italy’s spectacular ‘movie- set’ islands
    • Discover more trips perfect for solo travellers

     

    There are 60 streets and 6,000 shopkeepers, selling everything including, of course, carpets. For an inveterate shopper it was impossible to resist some of these Aladdin’s caves. And after bartering to buy a leather jacket, I found a tiny cubby hole off an alleyway for lunch.

    The kitchen was open to the street, and a woman slapped dough into thin bread which she wrapped around leaves of spinach. I had grilled chicken and it was delicious – one of the most enjoyable meals I had on the trip – and just £3 for two courses plus apple tea.

    Elinor hunts out some authentic souvenirs to take homeBargain hunting: Elinor hunts out some authentic souvenirs to take home

    That evening we all ate together at the hotel and exchanged information. Stewart, the teacher, had spent the afternoon at the Topkapi Palace, so next morning Carmel and I set off. It is a huge complex that was the home of the sultans who ruled the Ottoman Empire for 400 years.

    It overlooks the sea and you move from one astonishingly decorated pavilion to another. Housed in one of them are the jewels amassed by the Ottomans, including the diamond-encrusted Topkapi dagger, which Peter Ustinov’s character tries to steal in the 1964 film Topkapi.

    On the way back to the hotel I stopped in the Arasta Bazaar, where my nose for quality led me into a shop. I was drawn into a lengthy negotiating process for a beautiful apricot carpet. After much shaking of hands and whispering, I got it for a third off the asking price, which apparently is about normal.

    That evening, as the rest of the group headed to a fish restaurant, Carmel and I went to a basic cafe – no walls but plastic sheeting – recommended by the carpet seller.

    We sat at low tables surrounded by men smoking water pipes, and watched a lone Suffi dancer whirl through a haze of smoke.

    Nobody bothered us, but I doubt I would have gone in there on my own, another example of the advantage of going with a group of other single travellers.

    Travel Facts

    Friendship Travel (0871 200 0613, www.friendshiptravel.com) offers a three-night break to Istanbul departing Gatwick on October 4 from £595pp. This includes return flights, transfers, accommodation with breakfast at the Senatus Hotel and services of a Friendship Travel host.

    Other tour operators specialising in singles holidays include Solos (www.solosholidays.co.uk), Travel One (www.travelone.co.uk) and Solitair Holidays (www.solitairhols.co.uk).

    Read more: http://www.dailymail.co.uk/travel/article-2323039/A-single-ticket-Istanbul-Joining-solo-travellers-discover-Turkeys-cultural-heart.html#ixzz2T9W7EtEf
    Follow us: @MailOnline on Twitter | DailyMail on Facebook

  • A Conservationist Effort at Topkapi Palace in Istanbul Brings Gardens Closer to their Ottoman Heritage

    A Conservationist Effort at Topkapi Palace in Istanbul Brings Gardens Closer to their Ottoman Heritage

    topkapi_istanbul

    The fabled Topkapi sarayi of the Ottomans in Istanbul, Turkey, is seeing a revivalist effort at landscaping its gardens and reconnecting with scents of the past…

    “Instead of bringing in roses from Europe, the gardens will boast roses from Anatolia, Dursun said, adding that the flowers would come from the southern province of Isparta. “We’ve planted 10,000 flowers from Isparta in Gülhane Park. The aim is to revive Gülhane, which was a very important park in terms of rose water production.”

    Read more in Topkapi Gardens to again Carry Fragrance of Ottomans

    Picture via worldalldetails.com

    Read more at http://www.mimifroufrou.com/scentedsalamander/2013/04/a_conservationist_effort_at_to.html#yaiGP6ekOVMszdzf.99

  • Turkey gets a glimpse of China’s civilization

    Turkey gets a glimpse of China’s civilization

    Turkey gets a glimpse of China’s civilization

    Updated: 2012-11-19 08:08

    By Lin Shujuan ( China Daily)

    f04da2db11221213c76835Turkey gets a glimpse of China’s civilization

    Treasure of China, a high-profile exhibition consisting of 101 representative relics of Chinese civilization over its 5,000 years of development, has arrived at the Topkapi Palace in Istanbul, Turkey.

    As part of the ongoing Chinese Culture Year in Turkey, the exhibition – the first of its kind initiated by the two governments – will be open to the public from Nov 20 to Feb 20.

    “We hope to offer a glimpse of China’s 5,000-year civilization and an enjoyable visiting experience for the Turkish people,” says Yao An, deputy director of Arts Exhibition of China who helped curate the exhibition.

    For the exhibition, curators have spent more than one year handpicking the exhibits from major museums in Beijing, Shanghai and Shaanxi province, including the Imperial Palace Museum, Shanghai Museum and the Qinshihuang Terracotta Museum, Yao says.

    Among them are Chinese iconic treasures like colorful pottery from the New Stone Age (c. 3300-2200 BC), Terracotta Warriors and horses from the Qinshihuang Terracotta Museum in Xi’an, stone carved Buddha statues from the Tang Dynasty (AD 618-907) when the Silk Road connecting China and Turkey was in its prime period and glazed plates used in the imperial family during the Qing Dynasty (1644-1911).

    Curators have also arranged five mirrors to reflect the four Terracotta Warriors, including a general and a kneeling bowman and one horse, to produce the effect of an army.

    Tolga Ucak, political counselor from the Turkish embassy to China, says he believes the exhibition will attract a lot of attention, especially the terracotta army exhibits. He visited the Qinshihuang Terracotta Museum for the first time in 2010.

    “Everyone in Turkey know of the Terracotta Warriors and horses, but few of them have seen them for real,” the counselor says.

    “Once they see them at the exhibition today, they might be interested in coming to China to see more tomorrow.”

    Zhang Heqing, director of Division of Foreign Affairs under the State Administration of Cultural Heritage, says the exhibition is part of the ongoing Chinese Culture Year in Turkey, which started in December 2011.

    In 2013, China will host the Turkish Culture Year.

    linshujuan@chinadaily.com.cn

    (China Daily 11/19/2012 page20)

    via Turkey gets a glimpse of China’s civilization |Life |chinadaily.com.cn.

  • Topkapi Palace is the jewel in Istanbul’s crown

    Topkapi Palace is the jewel in Istanbul’s crown

    Sheldon Kirshner, Staff Reporter, Monday, June 18, 2012

    turkey palace

    The entrance to Topkapi [Sheldon Kirshner photo]

    ISTANBUL — In Jules Dassin’s 1964 feature film, Topkapi, the Greek actor Melina Mercouri plays a thief plotting to steal a priceless emerald-studded dagger from a glass case in the imperial treasury.

    One can understand why this gold and green dagger, commissioned by Sultan Mahmud I in 1747 as a gift for the shah of Persia, was the object of her desire.

    Glittering under artificial lighting, this exquisite piece never actually reached the shah. After the shah’s assassination, Mahmud I kept the dagger, depositing it in the imperial treasury, one of the buildings in the royal residence, known then and now as the Topkapi Palace.

    Probably the premier tourist attraction in Istanbul today, Topkapi leaves memorable impressions.

    Apart from having been the residence of Ottoman sultans from 1465 to 1856, Topkapi was the seat of government of the Ottoman Empire, which stretched into the Balkans and the Middle East, including Palestine, and officially lasted until 1922, when the sultanate was abolished.

    Converted into a museum in 1924, a year after Turkey became the successor state of the far-flung empire, Topkapi, the jewel in Istanbul’s crown, is now administered by the ministry of culture and tourism, and has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1985.

    Built on a promontory with a splendid view of Istanbul, the Sea of Marmara and the Golden Horn, Topkapi was constructed in phases and rebuilt after an earthquake in 1509 and a fire in 1655.

    Surrounded by a high wall, some of which dates back to the Byzantine era, Topkapi was really a city within a city, consisting of four courtyards and containing such buildings as mosques, bakeries, a mint, a harem and a hospital.

    By the 17th century, Topkapi had lost some of its importance due to the decision by sultans to build palaces along the Bosphorus, the strategic strait that separates Europe from Asia. In 1856, when Sultan Abdul Mecid I moved the royal court to the Dolmabahce Palace, Topkapi became something of a white elephant.

    At the suggestion of Ilber Ortayli, Topkapi’s president, I began my truncated tour at the imperial treasury, whose resplendent objects consist of spoils of war, gifts and special pieces produced by highly skilled craftsmen.

    Of particular interest were 16th-century jewel-encrusted Persian flasks, a 19th-century jade piece presented to Sultan Abdulhamid II by the Russian czar in the 19th century, a 16th-century Ottoman helmet made of gold, turquoise and rubies, a 16th-century bowl of cut emeralds weighing 15 to 29 grams and an undated jewelry box sparkling with emeralds and rubies. Ottoman imperial thrones are also striking in appearance.

    The 18th-century throne of Sultan Mustafa II was wheeled out a final time in 1918 when the last Ottoman sultan, Mehmed VI, was crowned.

    The mid-16th-century ebony throne of the empire’s greatest sultan, Suleyman the Magnificent, stands as a testament to the power and influence of a Muslim empire.

    The throne of Ahmed I (1603-1617) is unique, having been designed by Mimar Sinan, the architect of Istanbul’s glittering Blue Mosque.

    Across a path from the imperial treasury is the Enderun Library, or Library of Ahmed III, a fine example of 18th-century Ottoman architecture.

    Decorated with 16th- and 17th-century Iznik tiles, the building contained books on Islamic law and theology in Turkish, Arabic and Persian. Nowadays, these volumes are stored in a mosque.

    Nearby is the Privy Chamber, which houses sacred Muslim relics, namely the cloak of the Prophet Muhammed, a hair of his beard and two of his swords, as well as oil paintings of Ottoman sultans from Osman II (1618-1622) to Abdulhamid II (1876-1909).

    The Pavilion for Breaking the Fast, commissioned by Sultan Ibrahim (1640-1648 and used during the Ramadan holiday, is really a fancy terrace that offers views of Istanbul and the Sea of Marmara.

    The adjacent Baghdad Pavilion, built to commemorate a successful military campaign by Sultan Murad IV in the 1600s, is regarded as an example of classical palace architecture.

    Adorned with mother-of-pearl tiles, with tortoise shells decorating window panels, this structure served as a library from the 18th century onward.

    As I arrived at Topkapi shortly before closing, I was unable to visit either the Portrait Gallery, whose collection of hand-painted Islamic miniatures may be unrivalled, or the harem, the private apartments of sultans, their wives, children, concubines and servants.

    No one who has the time should miss these splendid sights.

    via Topkapi Palace is the jewel in Istanbul’s crown | The Canadian Jewish News.

  • Istanbul – a model of hospitality

    Istanbul – a model of hospitality

    By Misbahuddin Mirza

    “Could you slow down? Please?” I asked the cab driver as he started racing down the freeway, leading away from the Istanbul airport, as if someone had just waved the Indy 500’s start of race flag at him. The driver acknowledged my request, but, made no attempt to slow down. As the distance between my cab and the car in front of it started disappearing at an alarming rate, I resumed fidgeting nervously with my seat belt, hoping desperately for it to click in place, so that I may at least survive what looked like an unavoidable crash. I started visualizing the next day’s newspaper headlines, ‘Why on earth would a senior engineer trained in the US sit unbuckled in the front seat of a cab?’

    I started praying. If my dreams of visiting the city of the mighty Sultans, and the invincible jannisaris could not be realized, I may as well go out praying. Bingo! A miracle! Just when my cab was a few inches from rear-ending the car in the front, my cab driver calmly slid into the next lane. For a person terrified at the sight of a roller coaster, this cab ride was going down in history right next to the time when I accidentally got on Epcot center’s Space Mountain roller coaster thinking that it was a benign train ride.


    7383968746 cb5dbaa495 z

    interior of the Dome of Hagia Sofia.

    I had booked a hotel in the old city as I wanted to be amongst the Turks, and experience firsthand the history and culture of the people who had so profoundly changed the lives of so many people across the globe – including that of yours truly. The Muslims from India, like me, feel a sense of connection with the Turks. From the Turkic Sultans who ruled India, valiantly protecting us from certain destruction at the hands of the dreaded Mongols; to the Turkish Khalifa who was the Spiritual head, to the beautiful Urdu language and a refined and serene culture that flourishes to this day.

    The cab had left the smooth pavement of the freeway, and was now bobbling over the cobble stone roads laid out by the Byzantines. I paid the cab driver, thanked him, and followed the porter to the front desk. Within minutes I was in the shower scrubbing away the airline germs. I emerged from the hotel refreshed. The sun was bright. The air was humid. My first stop was the Shahzade Sulaymaniye Masjid. I walked into the Masjid’s courtyard and was immediately struck by the serenity. A few people were sitting leisurely on the cool marble with their legs dangling into the courtyard. No cars whizzing by, no ringing of mobile phones, no rush for anything. Time appears to have stood still from the time this Masjid was built several hundred years ago, in memory of the Sultan’s crown prince who had died unexpectedly. I performed ablution at the fountains in the middle of the courtyard and walked into the Masjid.

    Soon, I was back in another cab, this time sitting safely in the rear seat, driving towards Hagia Sofia. During the Byzantine era this was considered to be a magnificent structure, and the centerpiece of their empire. However, according to today’s standards, it can hardly be considered spacious. I stood between the columns where the empress used to stand while observing the proceedings below. From this vantage point, I observed the intricately crafted Mimbar, Mihrab, and Islamic calligraphy. As an engineer, I felt sad at the poor way in which the Byzantines had reconstructed the earthquake damage to Hagia Sofia, by erecting massive exterior buttresses to shore up the central dome.


    7383969384 6835fa8347 z

    Inside Sultan Ahmet Mosque (Blue Mosque), showing the famous Iznik tile work, and chandeliers.

    From here, I walked to the Sultan Ahmet Mosque, renowned in the West as the Blue Mosque. This mosque was simply awesome. The lofty minarets reaching out to touch the clouds. The domes, and partial domes could not have been arranged in more perfect harmony. If the view of the Bosphorus joining the Sea of Marmara does not take your breath away, the skyline of the majestic Sultan Ahmet Mosque surely will. If a structure could be built using poetry, this one had no match. The interior was stunning. The famous Iznik tile work, the Circular chandelier, the ornate doors and windows, gave me more reason to wait inside till prayer time, and join the believers for the evening prayers.

    I spent some time purchasing souvenirs before taking a cab back to my hotel. It was almost 10 PM. I made my way through the narrow streets to the Sultan Fateh Mosque. I entered the courtyard through one of the side entrances, and headed towards the entrance with the ornate gold roof. I tugged at the door and found that it was locked. I looked around and noticed two young teenage girls walking by, and asked them why the door to the Mosque was locked. ‘Oh, this is not the entrance to the Mosque,’ explained one of the girls speaking in perfect English. ‘This is the entrance to the mausoleum of Sultan Fateh. Please come with us, and we will take you to the Mosque’s entrance.’ They walked me around the spacious court yard that connected the adjoining Mosque’s courtyard. The Masjid courtyard looked like a carnival scene. It was full of people. Children running around playing, bicycling, skating. Grownups sitting idly on the platforms built around trees. A teenage girl pulled deeply at a cigarette as if she was participating in some sort of intense sports competition. ‘What time do these kids go to bed?’ I wondered. I walked past several stray cats that were periodically petted and fed by passerby. I went into the mosque and blended in with the locals many of whom appeared to have just returned from work. After the prayers, I walked up to the Imam, complimented him on his turban, and asked where I could buy one similar to it. On the way back to the hotel, I lost my way; a young man walked me back, striking a friendly conversation. A couple of minutes later, while parting near the hotel, he offered me a small gift.

    I had an early, hearty breakfast. This was going to be another long day ahead of me, and I wanted to stretch it by starting early. I hailed a cab and headed straight for the world famous Topkapi Palace. The Topkapi palace lived up to its name and more. In the inner chambers of the palace is a row of rooms that house holy relics. I was able to see the swords of Prophet Mohammed (PBUH), and the first four Caliphs’. This was quite an experience.


    7383970610 0fca1f5df3 z

    outside the Askari Muse (Museum of Military history), showing one of the specially designed cannons that was used in capturing Constantinople

    I visited the Rumelli Hisari Fort that was built under the personal supervision of Sultan Fateh. I then headed to the famous Egyptian Bazaar and the Spice Market, which is more jam packed with people than an American Shopping Mall on Black Friday. Apparel, toys, perfumes – almost everything is available under one giant covered market. The wares overflow onto the walkways, with merchants soliciting passersby to step in and browse through their merchandise. After absorbing the lively atmosphere, I bought a Turkish outer dress and scarves for my wife, and the famous Mehmet Efendi coffee. Coming out from the spice market, I could not resist taking a ferry ride on the Bosphorous, followed by a leisurely dinner of succulent Turkish Kababs and my favorite Kadaiyf pastries.

    The Muezzin’s call to Morning Prayer woke me up. I visited the Dohambace Palace, the Islamic Art Galleries, the Roman Hippodrome, and the Roman aqueducts. It had been an extremely hectic but pleasant whirlwind of a tour. It was time to say goodbye to Istanbul, and to the beautiful people who had been unbelievably hospitable to me – strangers had cared more for my well being, then I cared for myself; every store owner, where I had shopped, had thrown in a small unsolicited gift; everyone I spoke to, had gone out of the way to help me.

    At New York’s JFK airport, enroute to Istanbul, I knew that I had already maxed out on my baggage allowance. Now, in Istanbul, I had bought so much stuff, that I was mentally prepared to pay a hefty fee for exceeding the baggage limits. But, the only words I heard were a wish for my safe journey, with a bright smile. Just as the jet took off the ground from Istanbul, I realized that I had forgotten something very dear in Istanbul – my heart.

    7383970610 0fca1f5df3 z


    Misbahuddin Mirza, M.S., P.E., a Senior Engineer with the Structures Division of the New York State Department of Transportation. All photos by the author.

    http://twocircles.net/2012jun17/istanbul_%E2%80%93_model_hospitality.html

  • rene fijten sketches: Topkapi in Istanbul

    rene fijten sketches: Topkapi in Istanbul

    The top sketch is of the Topkapi palace; the famous palace of the Sultan and his thousand wife’s. It’s a labyrinth of buildings and courtyards, I made this sketch in one of the less crowded ones. I had problems with the paint, I was standing in the burning sun (pretty hot for Spring), and the paint dried quickly.

    Below the view from the 1st floor gallery of the Hagia Sophia, one of the most impressive buildings I know. You feel the weight of the centuries on your shoulders when walking through this (original Roman empire) building.

    topkapi

    Boven een schets van het Topkapi paleis, onder een schets van de preekstoel (of hoe heet zoiets in de Islam) vanaf de omloop in de Hagia Sofia.

    via rene fijten sketches: Topkapi in Istanbul.