By SUZY HANSEN
Over the past several decades, Turkey has suffered from a lost-empire inferiority complex. But with a robust new economy and an ever-emboldened prime minister, the country feels well on its way to regional superpowerdom. And Istanbul, Turkey’s urban behemoth, bursts with this newfound confidence. This past year, the European Union named it a Capital of Culture.
Forget the whole East-West thing: Today’s Istanbul is Turkish through and through.
That means Turks are comfortable with both Ottoman nostalgia and the trendy-quirky gentrification transforming much of Beyoğlu, an area that was historically the European quarter of the city. The back streets of Tünel often turn into an all-night party, and in turn-of-the-century Galata, new boutiques have sprung up in refurbished buildings squeezed into tiny alleyways.
Photos: Istanbul
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Cemal Emden for The Wall Street Journal
Pano Sarap Evi is a tavern near the British Consulate and the Fish Market.
On the main drag, Istiklal Caddesi, a range of sartorial and artistic delights are tucked away in the ateliers and galleries of the historic Mısır Apartments. And newer restaurants and nightclubs offer a near-360 backdrop of twinkling lights and silvery water.
Meanwhile, the neighborhoods of Eyüp, Balat, Fener and old Sultanahmet provide a taste of religious life in the city. Across the Bosphorus, Üsküdar, on the Asian side, similarly feels like an alternative Beyoğlu for the observant and middle-class. Şakirin Camii, a new modern mosque, is a prime example. Most everywhere tourists feel remarkably safe, but there are some travel concerns. Although incidents are rare, Turkey has long endured domestic terrorism threats.
But for the most part Istanbul’s biggest problem is traffic. That’s easy to escape because the one place in the city devoid of cars remains the place to be: the Bosphorus. You can take ferries back and forth to sample Çiya’s delicious and authentic Turkish fare, slip into lounges suspended over water, drink at sunset on the terrace of Müzedechanga after a day at the stunning Sakıp Sabancı Museum or nibble on fusion food on the porches of Abracadabra. But you will strain to pay attention to what you’re eating. The view is really that enchanting.
The Home Maker
ANTONY TODD
Furniture and floral designer; owner of Antony Todd Home (Istanbul and New York)
Rooftop Respite: Tomtom Suites Terrace Bar. The empty streets below this renovated, circa 1901 hotel make it look like a movie set. The romantic patio bar looks out on all of Beyoglu and the banks of Golden Horn. Bogazkesen Caddesi, Tomtom Kaptan Sokak 18, Beyoglu, tomtomsuites.com
Modern Turkish Tavern: Münferit. One of the city’s best new restaurants, it’s a brilliant update of the traditional meze. It was designed by the well-known Turkish firm Autoban and has a lovely vibe. Yeni Çarsı Caddesi 19, Beyoglu, munferit.com.tr
Fish Place: Balikci Suna’nin Yeri. To get to this restaurant you take a boat across the Bosphorus. The café is right on the water. It’s wacky and friendly and delicious. Kandilli Iskele Caddesi 4-17, Üsküdar
One-Stop Boutique: Midnight Express. They design distinct clothes and furniture, and also have bags and glassware: overall, a great perspective. Main location: Küçük Bebek Caddesi 7/A, Bebek, midnightexpress.com.tr
Chic Inn: The House Hotel Galatasaray. A remarkably charming boutique hotel, with grand suites. It used to be an old five-story, French-styled private home, now redesigned by Autoban. For any budget, it’s a memorable stay. Bostanbası Caddesi 19, Beyoglu, thehousehotel.com
The Fashion Designer
HUSSEIN CHALAYAN
Turkish Cyprus-born designer of his eponymous line; creative director of Puma sportswear
Date Enclave: Assk Kahve. Beloved by native Turks, “assk” actually means “love.” The original café’s patio setting, right on the Bosphorus, has a timeless, old-world romance to it hard to find in other cities. Muallim Naci Caddesi 64/B, Kuruçesme, asskkahve.com
Waterfront Brunch: Sade Kahve at Rumeli Hisarı. It’s a tradition to go to Rumeli Hisarı for an authentic Turkish breakfast. Giant cargo ships pass by on their way to unknown Black Sea ports. It’s exhilarating. Yahya Kemal Caddesi 36/1, Rumeli Hisarı
Meze and Asian: Kuzguncuk’s Icadiye Caddesi and Ismet Baba. Under the Bosphorus Bridge on the Asian side, it’s a residential area, but with art galleries and great home-cooking restaurants. Order a traditional meze at Ismet Baba, a local favorite. Ismet Baba, Çarsı Caddesi 96, ismetbaba.com.tr
Indigenous Art: Galerist. This gallery in the Mısır Apartments also operates internationally and gives artists a voice abroad. It’s one of the better opportunities to see new Turkish art. Istiklal Caddesi, Misir Apt. 163/4, Beyoglu, galerist.com.tr
Istanbul-Meets-Bauhaus: Santralistanbul. This space for contemporary art exhibitions reminds you what a big metropolis Istanbul is—it’s like something you’d find in Berlin. It was once a power plant. Kazim Karabekir Caddesi 2/6, Eyüp, santralistanbul.com
The Restaurateur
OSMAN CAKIR
Istanbul-born co-owner of New York’s Turks & Frogs restaurants and the bar Orient Express
Exotic Concoction: Boza at Vefa Bozacısı. Autumn-winter is the time to try this very Turkish drink, a digestive made out of fermented wheat. Vefa Bozacısı is in the Old City. Katip Çelebi Caddesi 104/1, Vefa, vefa.com.tr
Antiquing: Çukurcuma and 49 Pizza. I love looking for antiques in this Beyoglu neighborhood, where I always stop at 49 Pizza. It’s in an old Greek building. The café has great coffee and wines from Bozcaada. They use lovely vintage glassware. Turnacıbası Caddesi 49, Çukurcuma
Greek Wine Bar: Pano Sarap Evi. It’s a tavern near the British Consulate and the Fish Market. It still has the huge barrels that belonged to Mister Pano. The building feels like the late 19th century and doesn’t overcharge tourists. Hamal Bası Caddesi, 12/B, Beyoglu, panosarapevi.com
Souffle: Iskele. Near Rumeli Hisarı, this is a fish restaurant on the Bosphorus that used to be an old dock. They make the best chocolate soufflé. You won’t see many tourists, just Turkish couples and families. Yahya Kemal Caddesi 1, Rumeli Hisarı, rumelihisariiskele.com
Nargile: Pierre Loti Café. This rustic rooftop café has a view of the entire Golden Horn. You can see the whole skyline of Old Istanbul. Take the cable car to the top, and walk through historic Eyüp on your way down. Gumussuyu Karyagoli Sokak, Eyüp
The Writer
ELIF SHAFAK
Author of “The Bastard of Istanbul” and “The Forty Rules of Love”; Istanbul and London resident
Bosphorus Hangout: The House Café. I love inhaling the salty air at this Istanbul chain’s seaside location. The energy is great. I never bore of watching the fishermen. The café has tables right by the sea, as close as you can get to it. Salhane Sokak 1, Ortaköy,thehousecafe.com
Old Tomes: Simurg Kitabevi and Denizler Kitabevi.The owners know a lot about old manuscripts, used books and ones no longer in circulation. And I like the cats. In Istanbul bookstores you’ll always find a cat somewhere. Simurg: Beyoglu, simurg.com.tr; Denizler: Istiklal Caddesi 199/A, Beyoglu, denizlerkitabevi.com
Hotel with Bars: The Four Seasons Sultanahmet. A great place to stay in the old city, if you want to be close to the Hagia Sophia and Blue Mosque. It was once a notorious prison. Tevkifhane Sokak 1, Sultanahmet, fourseasons.com/istanbul
Casual Dining: W Kitchen. This hotel restaurant has very American but well-done cuisine: pasta, burgers, fish. Süleyman Seba Caddesi 22, Akaretler, wistanbul.com.tr
Gems Mecca: Urart Ateliers. This store’s designs are inspired by Turkey’s ancient Anatolian civilizations. It’s definitely for those who like gold and silver. There’s also an art gallery inside. Abdi Ipekçi Caddesi 18/1, Nisantasi, urart.com.tr
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