Tag: Istanbul

  • Let’s Talk About Istanbul

    Let’s Talk About Istanbul

    There’s nothing like a little truth-telling to set the pot aflame.

    For nearly a decade, now, I have watched, written about, and circulated within the art scene in Istanbul. For nearly a decade, I have been convinced of its potential. I have praised Turkish artists, bought work by Turkish artists, befriended Turkish artists, collectors, and dealers. I have written for Turkish museums, for Turkish artists, for Turkish collectors. I have attended art fairs, openings, and auctions.

    But my last post — in which I pointed to the paucity of international art in Istanbul, and reported on the frustrations voiced to me by Turkish artists, dealers, and collectors, over the lack of access to works by non-Turkish artists in Istanbul — clearly rankled nerves. And I have to wonder why.

    Among the accusations have been that I was “patronizing” – even when the words I quoted were not my own,but those of Turkish artists, dealers and collectors; and when I, for my own part, have for years championed the art produced in Turkey and the passion of its collectors, art lovers, and dealers. Others claim, clearly having not done an iota of research, that I somehow do not know the Turkish art market, even as I have been immersed in it longer than a good half of Istanbul’s galleries have even existed.

    “You write as if Turkey were a third-world country,” one art market power broker said to me. I disagree. But Turkey’s art scene is comparatively new; modern and contemporary art galleries did not exist 50 years ago – the first opened in 1975. And so it is still developing. For the moment it is essentially a local market, with, as I wrote, its own aesthetics, its own rules. There is nothing wrong with this, of course; Sweden, Denmark, indeed, all of Scandinavia are localized as well (and yes, there are major international artists in the museums there). But they don’t position themselves as the next center of the global art world. Istanbul does.

    And it shouldn’t require too much explaining to understand that to be the center of the international art scene, you need to have an international art scene.

    So let me set the record straight. I passionately believe in the potential Istanbul has to become what it claims to wish for. I deeply believe in the potential of many Turkish artists to succeed on a global scale. And I deeply would love to see those things happen.

    But anyone who knows anything about what is happening in Turkey’s art circles also knows that for these wishes to be realized, the time for real action is now. Anyone who is part of Turkey’s art scene has been involved recently in discussions about just this: that the country’s ability to compete in the art market on an international level is going to require a serious reworking of its own market. And when artists repeatedly tell me that they want to see more international art, when students repeatedly report that they long to have works by international artists in their own museums; when dealers who exhibit American and European art tell me that the people who come to their exhibitions are enthralled – then I will report that, and I will hope, with all my heart, that those who care as deeply for Turkey’s future as a force in the international art world will listen; and that rather than criticize what they don’t want to hear, they will do something to make Istanbul’s art scene matter to the world as much as it matters to me — and, if they are telling the truth, for them.

    via Let’s Talk About Istanbul | Cultural Affairs | ARTINFO.com.

  • Tamie Adaya: Turkish Delight: The Wonders Of Istanbul

    Tamie Adaya: Turkish Delight: The Wonders Of Istanbul

    I fall head over heels in love with Istanbul each time I visit. The people, the history, the food, the joie de vivre & architecture are all irresistible.

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    Istanbul is an intercontinental city with its historical center in Europe & a third of its population in Asia. The city straddles the Bosphorus, sits between the Marmara, the Black & Mediterranean Seas & is built on seven hills, offering visually stunning geography & the namesake for Turkey’s famous ‘Seven HIlls’ rug pattern.

    Dating back to the 1400′s, Hammams are some of Istanbul’s most beautiful buildings still standing & are one of the first experiences to have in this magical city.

    One of my favorite Hammams is the Ayasofya Hurrem Sultan Hammam, designed & built by Mimar Sinan, the chief Ottoman architect who built the Blue Mosque at the request of Hurrem Sultan (Roxelana), the wife of Sultan Suleiman the Magnificent in the 16th century (1556-1557 AD).

    The Turkish method of bathing was popularized in the Victorian era & is rooted in Greek & ancient Roman traditions, with stories of women secretly scrutinizing prospective wives for their sons & brothers in the raw. You prepare & dress in a warm dry relaxing room before making your way into the hararet, a hot sauna in which you perspire, slow down & unwind. After sweating away the stresses of our modern world you meet your masseur for the most rejuvenating bath & excellent exfoliating body scrub while lying on the göbektaşı (raised marble centrally heated platforms).

    Emerging from the bath cleansed & with skin softer than ever, you depart feeling relaxed, purified & ready to breathe in Istanbul’s rich culture & history walking along it’s cobblestone streets.

    As Europe’s oldest luxury hotel group, there is a certain amount of grandness & flair to expect from a Kempinski property & yet each time I visit the Ciragan Palace, the only Ottoman Imperial Palace & Hotel on the Bosphorus, I am spellbound by its beauty & the beauty of it’s guests. This past stay I ran into the esteemed Madeleine Albright.

    Aside from the dignitaries & diplomats, I tend to run into more musical ambassadors, Lou Reed, Brian Ferry, Blondie just to name a few…

    As a multi-dimensional traveller Istanbul is a wonderful city to tour. It has a rare combination of antiquities & modern relevance. The entire country is proud it’s imperial past, yet at the same time embraces & promotes a bright, optimistic future playing host to a booming economy.

    Istanbul is one of the places that no matter how often you visit you always feel like there is something new to do or see or experience, making it a snug fit for any adventurous traveler.

    via Tamie Adaya: Turkish Delight: The Wonders Of Istanbul.

    https://www.huffpost.com/entry/turkish-delight_b_2366277#slide=1921144

  • Hot Destinations 2013: Finding the Locals’ Istanbul

    Hot Destinations 2013: Finding the Locals’ Istanbul

    Hot Destinations 2013: Finding the Locals’ Istanbul

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    Culinary, Cultural Immersion, Culture, Destinations, Europe, Luxury Travel, Middle East, Shopping, Travel News — on December 31, 2012 8:31 am

    We can do better than the old cliche of Istanbul as “East meets West.” Instead, Courtney Crockett seeks out the vibrant local experience–the real hamam culture, Türk kahvehane and the hidden corners of the Grand Bazaar.

    If you follow the Istanbul of some tour guides, you’re sure to have the so-persistent photo op wearing a Sultan costume. But if you want to get to the heart of the vibrant city, break the surface of the local side. You won’t be disappointed.

    Eat + Drink

    Coffee is the best starting point. The good stuff will be found in a “Türk kahvehane,” or coffeehouse. Turkish coffee is unique because it’s made using a time-honored method, where the coffee and water is heated together, unfiltered in a special copper pot called a “cezve.” The process produces a kick about double that of your average espresso.

    According to local advice, kahve is usually ordered with a little sugar already mixed in. It can be a bit bitter without it. To order this “just right” amount of sweetness”, you must ask for “az sekerli.”

    An explosion of chain coffee shops has flooded Istanbul in recent years, from Starbucks to the Turkish version, Kahve Dünyasl. Lately, young people in particular– 50 percent of the city’s population–seem to be embracing the old style shops, aligning with rest of the vintage crazed western world.

    First time or fifth time, you’re probably going to end up at the Grand Bazaar. In one of the most bustling “shop ops” on earth, with over 4500 retailers, not many people think to sit. The results are better than any evil eye bracelet you could ever buy. I loved Fes Café. Order the “Damla Sakizh.” It’s a piney flavored infusion, almost like gin without the alcohol… a traditional Turkish spin.

    A few other coffee spots include Kahvecci Ethem Tezçakar (a tiny spot with a max seating of 4), Türk kahvehanes (ocean views and good food), Kronotrop Coffee Roastery + Brewery (good for pick up), Café di Dolce and Pierre Lotti.

    I cannot exclude Turkey’s other pride and joy… tea. If you’re a tea aficionado and frequent loose leaf boutiques with flavors most people have never heard of, you’ll likely want to spend a whole afternoon and a lot of Liras at Agakapisi. You can order in a seat with a great view, from a menu with +40 tea flavors. If you’d rather skip the fancy hibiscus infusion, tuck into the secret gated courtyard of Tunnel Square. Any café will do, but I liked K.V., for it’s square open window to the kitchen below your feet.

    You can only drink your way to satisfaction for so long; prepare for a food coma. Istanbul has some of the most delicious eats, combining local spices, age old recipes and the fresh flavors of the Mediterranean. Food for thought; try a neighborhood “meyhene,” a sort of Turkish tavern. Check out Yakup 2. Skip the traditional main course and ask your server for a combination of hot and cold “mezzes.” Mezzes are small plates, like tapas and are by far the best way to taste a wide range of plates, from white cheese borek to eggplant salad.

    It’s common in Istanbul to trust the waiters recommendation instead of ordering off the menu, so you won’t get a funny look if you request this. Also, order a glass of “raki,” the national drink. It’s an anise-flavored spirit that turns cloudy when mixed with water. Watch out, it goes down pretty easy but creeps up like tequila…so I’ve heard.

    Full as you may be, remember what is truly important at the end of the day…baklava. Although you really can’t go wrong with baklava in Istanbul, some are still better than others. Karakoy Güllüglu factory happens to be the largest baklava-producing site in the world. It’s quite a dangerous stop, and if you plan on visiting I highly recommend wearing elastic waist pants. I’m usually very partial to pistachio, but their walnut baklava made me seriously question my loyalty.

    While you’re in the area, just down the street is Koska, boasting to die for chocolate-walnut baklava that I can’t even talk about. The employees suggested eating baklava upside down, so the flakey crust dissolves on your tongue and you can take in the real texture. While my unsophisticated taste buds were not phased by this recommendation, it made binging on thousands of buttery calories feel slightly scientific.

    via Travel News You Can Use – Hot Destinations 2013: Finding the Locals’ Istanbul.

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  • Hands-off style of exploring Istanbul is ancient history

    Hands-off style of exploring Istanbul is ancient history

    ISTANBUL — That museum-schooled “look, don’t touch” detachment from the artifacts of history won’t get you anywhere in a place like Istanbul, an intricate, crafted quilt of multilayered pasts and a thronging, multicultural present.

    The philosophy can’t help but be a little different here. The Turks know what the Romans know and what the citizens of any of the world’s ancient cities have long since figured out: Archaeology is everywhere, folks. Respect for the past can’t be allowed to get in the way of the working metropolis.

    Istanbul is, indeed, the “Please Touch Museum” of archaeology.

    My own introduction to this mind-set came as soon as we checked into our hotel. The Eresin Crown Hotel is an obscenely luxurious modern establishment located smack in the middle of the historic heart of Istanbul — in fact, on the very site of the Byzantine emperors’ Imperial Palace.

    Like every other project in Istanbul, down to the most humble sewer repair, the Eresin Crown’s construction in the 1990s doubled as a serious archaeological dig. The results are on display for you to see. Many pieces of ancient Byzantium are behind glass in stately looking cases as you would expect, but many others simply stand around the main lobby and the ground-floor bar. I walked over and placed my hand on a sixth-century marble column, tracing my fingers over a low-relief cherub sculpted there millennia ago by some Greek artisan employed by a Caesar.

    History in my hands. My Midwest museum-patron mind reeled.

    Some days later, my daughter and I ventured out to the ancient land walls of Constantinople, breached by the Ottoman Turks in 1453 at one of history’s most fateful turning points. Destroyed and rebuilt at intervals over the centuries since, the walls are still there to see; the workaday Turks don’t take much notice of them. And indeed, our Istanbul-native guide had some difficulty figuring out how to even access them from the roaring superhighways that now crisscross the walls and trace their 1,600-year-old course.

    As a first taste, we explored what remains of the Yedikule Fortress, a seven-towered medieval bastion anchoring the southern junction of ancient Constantinople’s land and sea walls in what is now the working-class Fatih neighborhood of Istanbul.

    Built up over the centuries, this fortress marks the site of what was once the principal ceremonial entrance to the Byzantine Imperial City.

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    We decided to scale the parapets of one of the towers added a bit later by Ottoman Sultan Mehmed II in the 15th century.

    That’s right. My teenage daughter and I took to the steep, centuries-old masonry steps and went to the rooftops.

    This is technically a state-run museum, and there were a couple of sleepy attendants in a booth somewhere, but what we chose to do inside this otherwise deserted Byzantine-Ottoman fortress was no concern of theirs.

    At the summit of the tower, I immediately made my way to one of the battlements and caught my breath at the astonishing view across the sprawling Istanbul skyline and the Sea of Marmara spread out before me.

    My hand came to rest on the corner of one of the crenellations piercing the battlement wall. To my horror, the entire heavy block of centuries-old masonry shifted beneath my arm.

    I peered down at the grassy area six or seven stories below me and noticed more than a few similar pieces of dislocated Ottoman-period masonry half buried there. One easy shove was all it would take — I would leave off studying the processes of history and, instead, for what would surely be one of the only times in my life, participate in them.

    I carefully replaced the chunk of masonry and made sure it was secure.

    History might lie in my hands, but after all, it was the respect and admiration for it that had brought me halfway around the world to the parapets of the Yedikule Fortress in the first place.

    We resumed our survey of the fortress and the rest of the Walls of Constantinople, using, as our principal tools, our eyes — and of course our imaginations.

    via Hands-off style of exploring Istanbul is ancient history (gallery) | cleveland.com.

  • Initiative Kicks Off to Integrate Biking to Istanbul Commute

    Initiative Kicks Off to Integrate Biking to Istanbul Commute

    Initiative Kicks Off to Integrate Biking to Istanbul Commute

    Bikelab İstanbul, an initiative to safely integrate bikes into Istanbul’s commute alternatives, has been launched today with a series of workshops.

    Beyza KURAL

    [email protected]

    İstanbul – BIA News Desk

    18 December 2012, Tuesday

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    Bikelab İstanbul, an initiative to safely integrate bikes into Istanbul’s commute alternatives, has been launched today with a series of workshops. EMBARQ Turkey, YARD 9 and Royal Dutch Consulate to Istanbul listed among supporters of the initiative that will work for a solution until 2014.

    “We’re aiming to make biking safer in Istanbul and integrate it as an alternative way of commute. We will encourage public discussions on the matter and hopefully establish a pilot zone for bike traffic,” EMBARQ Turkey Director Arzu Tekir said.

    The workshop hosted several speakers including Onno Kervers (Dutch Consul to Istanbul), Ali Doğan Şalva (EMBARQ Turkey), Gerbrand Wiepko Bas (YARD 9), Anton Lambertus Bosch (Dutch Cycling Embassy), Murat Suyabatmaz (Biking Association) and Kevser Ser (A life with Bikes Foundation).

    Some of the highlights from the panel included:

    * Unlike the Netherlands, Turkey is dangerous country for biking. Infrastructural issues prevent people from using bikes as a means of commute.

    * Building bike lanes fundamentally encourages biking culture to develop.

    * Bikers in Istanbul suffer most from inattentive drivers, lack of public bike lockers and common mentality toward that biking is not a way of commute.

    * Some of the benefits of biking in Istanbul include: Fewer traffic accidents, less noise and air pollution, easier access for health care practitioners and rescue teams.

    * Panelist recommended creation of special bike lanes, biking teaching zones and equipment for carrying bikes in public transport vehicles. (BK/HK)

    via English :: Initiative Kicks Off to Integrate Biking to Istanbul Commute – Bianet.

  • Get a bellyfull in enchanting Istanbul: Dancing, history and eastern promise

    Get a bellyfull in enchanting Istanbul: Dancing, history and eastern promise

    Dancing, sightseeing, shopping and feasting make this Istanbul getaway a real Turkish delight

    Blue Mosque is breathtaking
at sunset
    Blue Mosque is breathtaking at sunset
    Getty Images

    Three young belly dancers sashay towards us, sculpted bodies glistening as they gyrate to the music. One is a handsome young man who with a haughty flick of his head commands me to give him my hands.

    To my relief – OK, maybe a little regret – I realise all he wants to do is to pour rose water over my fingers from a silver kettle.

    To the Turkish delight of my husband Tom, the other two dancers are hip-swaying handmaidens carrying a silver bowl and towels so we can refresh ourselves before beginning a dinner fit for a sultan.

    We’re in Nomads, one of Istanbul’s most chic and sharp night spots. Tourists and locals flock here to see acts such as body-popping belly dancer Bahar Sarah.

    Only the day before Bahar was trying to teach Tom and me some of her moves as part of a unique new holiday concept.

    The idea is to combine belly dancing classes with a city sightseeing break. It involves daily two-hour lessons plus trips to see all that Istanbul has to offer.

     

    ISTANBUL TRAVEL
    Tom holds sway on the dance floor

    On the dancing side of things, Tom proved a complete belly flop… stumbling off in the opposite direction to the rest of the class, almost falling out of the window on to the cafe awning below.

    When he breathlessly rejoined us, he tried valiantly to mimic Bahar’s hand movements but looked more like he was attempting to hang wallpaper.

    “I don’t mind making an Istanfool of myself,” he quipped.

    The session was great fun. Bahar broke down the difficult moves and made them easy – or at least possible.

    She managed to imbue Tom with such confidence that he was first on the dance floor at Nomads.

    The club provides the perfect opportunity for Bahar’s students to put their skills into practice. Those who want to also have a chance to perform in front of an audience at the end of their week’s tuition.

    But do save some energy to explore the rest of Istanbul’s vibrant culture.

    Smell the chestnuts roasting on street stalls, hear the haunting calls to prayer, see the dazzling displays of colourful spices and feel the 24-hour energy. This city rocks.

     

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    The Momento Hotel, Istanbul

    We were based at the Momento Hotel, just a few hundred yards from the Grand Bazaar, where 2,000 traders offer everything from rugs and jewellery to tasty delicacies. It’s aimed at tourists so prices are higher than at the more local markets, but barter hard and you can still get some bargains.

     

    Textiles at The Grand Bazaar, Istanbul, Turkey
    Textiles at The Grand Bazaar, Istanbul, Turkey
    Getty Images

    For another shopping experience, catch the tram to Kavagi, hop on the funicular to Taksim Square and then stroll down the pedestrianised thoroughfare to Tunel. To either side are dozens of streets and passages revealing yet more shops – a total mixture of market and upmarket.

    Public transport is easy and cheap. Each journey on tram, funicular or ferry costs 1.75 lira (70p) one way. Just buy a token from a nearby machine.

     

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    An antique tram that runs along Istiklal Caddesi (Independence Ave)
    Getty Images/Lonely Planet Image

     

    The city’s main attractions are all within walking distance.

    Perhaps its greatest treasure is the Sultan Ahmed Mosque, better known as the Blue Mosque because of the dominant colour of the tiles and mosaics inside.

    It was built between 1609 and 1616 by Sultan Ahmet, who wanted to create a place of worship that would be even better than the impressive Hagia Sophia built in 360AD. These two great architectural wonders stand next to each other in Istanbul’s main square.

    The Hagia Sophia is now a museum where you can learn its fascinating history for an entry fee of 20 lira (£7.75). A similar price will get you into the Museum of Turkish and Islamic Art, a former palace.

    Another must-see is the Basilica Cistern, thought to date from 532AD. It’s an underground waterway once used as a reservoir. Clever spotlighting makes the water shimmer with coloured dancing lights.

    Another major attraction nearby is the Topkapi Palace, which is where you can visit the famous Imperial Harem.

    Istanbul is the only city in the world to straddle two continents. The European part (Rumelia) is separated from the Asian part (Anatolia) by the Bosphorus. You can cross by bridge, but it’s more fun to take a 10-minute ferry ride to the other side.

    A cruise up the Bosphorus offers the chance to admire the many palaces and other treasures which line its banks.

    If that’s not intoxicating enough, try Turkey’s national drink, raki. It’s known colloquially as lion’s milk… and it won’t take much to get you roaring drunk.

    It is said that travellers go to Turkey for the history but stay for the food. This certainly rings true at the new restaurant Minyon, at the W Hotel, where chef Emre Capa, 27, is establishing a great reputation. A three-course meal plus wine costs around £35pp.

    After dinner there we’re too full to walk far, so we take the tram. It’s packed, but Turkish chivalry towards women means I’m soon given a seat.

    The locals also have great respect for age. Tom was mortified when a young woman offered him her place…

    TRAVEL FILE

    When to go

    Istanbul is a year-round destination, though summers are hot and snow is common in winter. Spring and autumn are the most popular times to visit.

    Top tip

    Head across the Golden Horn to the Pera district for less touristy dining and nightlife options.

    Getting there

    Return flights with Turkish Airlines from Gatwick or Heathrow start at £150 (flights also available from Birmingham, Manchester and Edinburgh). Book at

    Getting around

    One-way trip on tram, funicular or ferry costs just 1.75 lira (70p), with tickets available from machines near stops.

    Book it

    A two-night Dancing in Istanbul mini-break costs from £450pp including two nights’ B&B in a boutique hotel in the Old Town, two two-hour belly dancing classes, visits to the Blue Mosque, Hagia Sophia, Topkapi Palace, Grand Bazaar and a Bosphorus cruise. Or stay seven nights from £680pp.

    Go to www.unisonturkey.com or call 0090 212 256 4192. More holiday options at www.orientalistanbul.org

    Star quality

    Next August the dance school hosts pop star Shakira’s teacher and choreographer, Bozenka. She will teach students on a seven-day visit from £906pp. See www.tinyurl.com/bozenka

    Source :

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