Tag: Istanbul (Not Constantinople)

Not Constantinople: 9 Misconceptions About Istanbul, Turkey

Not Constantinople: 9 Misconceptions About Istanbul, Turkey

by Meg Nesterov (RSS feed) on Mar 7th 2013 at 11:00AM

The country of Turkey has been getting a lot of bad press this year, due to the tragicdisappearance and murder of American Sarai Sierra in Istanbul, and the suicide bombing at the U.S. Consulate in Turkish capital city Ankara, which was quickly linked to a Marxist group protesting the Turkish position on the war in Syria (a Turkish security guard was killed, no Americans were harmed). Both events are scary and horrible, but their discussion in the news highlighted a lot of ignorance and hate about Turkey and against Muslim countries, women and solo travel.As a as a female traveler, mother and former Istanbul expat, Sierra’s disappearance especially resonated with me and many of my friends. I arrived in Istanbul for a visit the day her body was discovered, and the Turkish and American press were full of rumors and speculation for weeks following, with no real evidence or leads at solving her case. Several fellow expats – all women who have spent plenty of time solo in Turkey – have responded with their feelings about being female in Istanbul, writing about relative safety in America vs. Turkey, the greater issues of domestic violence and sex trafficking and the risks all women of the world face. We feel disturbed that such a thing could happen in a place we feel safer in than many other world cities, defensive about our adopted country, its people and their faith, and disappointed in the misinformation and bigotry about Turkey and the Muslim world.

If you have reservations about travel in Turkey, alone, as a woman or both, please look beyond the hateful and incorrect comments to the many people who have happily traveled and lived in Istanbul and Turkey. In case you read no further than this paragraph, I will say that in my three years in Istanbul, I never felt unsafe, harassed or threatened, and in traveling in 13 countries with my baby, Turkey remains to me the most child-friendly in the world.

Based on what I’ve read in online discussions, and have heard from friends, these are the common misconceptions about Turkey:1. Turkey is part of the Middle East – Geographers may quibble, given Turkey’s borders with Syria, Iraq and Iran, but it also borders EU members Bulgaria and Greece, as well as Central Asian countries of Georgia, Armenia and Azerbaijan, so it could claim membership in several regions. Politically, many of the people of Turkey would rather align themselves with Europe, and they have been bidding to get into the European Union since 1987. Better to say it is part of the Muslim world (which includes counties in Asia and Africa) than to lump it in with the Middle East.

2. The women all wear burqas – A little background: when Mustafa Kemal (aka Atatürk, the most recognizable man in the country, whose face you’ll see in every Turkish business and on the money) founded the Turkish Republic in 1923, he made it a strictly secular state. One of his reforms was to ban religious headgear from state universities and public buildings. This is now being contested as a point of religious freedom, but in essence, Turkish women are not required to cover their bodies or hair, and many dress the same as women in the U.S. or Europe. You will see some women who wear a headscarf and long jacket, but you will also see women uncovered, even dressed immodestly. After “East meets West,” one of the biggest cliches in Istanbul travel writing is to mention the contrast of “miniskirts and minarets.” Often, the women you might see on the streets in Istanbul wearing a full black hijab or burqa are Arab tourists, or immigrants from the East. The headwear law also applies to the fez hat, so that red tasseled hat you bought at the Grand Bazaar would actually really offend the founder of modern Turkey.

3. You can’t drink alcohol, find pork or eat during Ramadan – In addition to being a secular country (there is no official religion, and the 99% Islamic demographic includes the many non-practicing Turks who might only culturally identify as Muslim), Turkey is very liberal and lenient. While the country has many observant Muslims who do not drink alcohol or eat pork, there are plenty of others who enjoy their Efes beer and a pizza with prosciutto. I’ve heard the explanation from many Turks that the Koran doesn’t say not to drink alcohol at all, but rather not to become intoxicated (though you’ll see plenty of drunkenness around Taksim on a Saturday night). I’d rather not try to dissect or debate religious doctrine, so just know that Istanbul has a thriving nightlife scene, and while alcohol is becoming more expensive due to increased taxes, it’s readily available. Turkey even produces many beers, wines and liquors, like the anise-flavored raki, also known as “lion’s milk”, of varying quality and price points. Pork is harder to come by, but you will find it in many larger supermarkets and some upscale restaurants, usually at a high premium. I’ve found fewer Turks who eat pork than drink alcohol, mostly because they haven’t grown up eating it, but they won’t begrudge you a bacon craving. Finally, if you are visiting during the Ramadan holiday, you’ll find it mostlybusiness as usual in Istanbul and other major tourist areas, and unlike other Muslim countries, foreigners are not expected to fast and are often invited to share in the nightly iftarfeasts.

4. It’s a hot, desert climate and everyone rides a camel – Possibly due to the Middle East connection, people seem to imagine Turkey as a desert with hot weather and no change in seasons. Istanbul is actually on the same latitude as Chicago and New York City, with similar weather patterns; winters are cold, even snowy, and summers are humid. The country has nearly every type of climate, and there are many bodies of water around and throughout, including the Mediterranean, Aegean and Black Seas (and the Bosphorus Strait, dividing Europe and Asia, of course). Not sure where the camel idea came from, likely the same misguided idea that it’s a desert country in the Middle East, but I’ve yet to see any camels in Istanbul. You might find them as strictly-tourist photo ops in Cappadocia, or even camel-wrestling matches on the Aegean coast, but you aren’t likely to see any ambling down Istiklal Caddesi.

5. The food is spicy – Possibly all those pictures of colorful saffron piles at the Spice Market (actually called the Egyptian Bazaar) have given many the impression that Turkish food is very hot and spicy. While there are many varieties of dishes, and some can pack quite a punch, most of the popular foods are rather mild: roasted lamb or beef kebabs, kofte meatballs, grilled fish, manti ravioli and the many varieties of pizza-like fast foods like pide, lahmacun and the like. Compared to the hot spices of Morocco or Southeast Asia, Turkish cuisine is downright cool, but still totally delicious.

6. Men have harems – Assuming that Muslim men have many wives is about as offensive as assuming Mormons all live like the TV show “Big Love.” Again, you can thank Atatürk for making polygamy illegal back in 1926, and it’s a jailable offense. While it’s possible that you might find a few rogue polygamists living out in the far east of the country, the only harem you’ll find in Istanbul is at Topkapi Palace – which has been a museum for nearly 100 years. Turkey has come a long way from the days of the Ottoman Empire, and likes to distance itself from the old ways of the sultans. Women are highly respected in Turkey, and afforded all the rights and privileges of “Western” women.

7. They speak Arabic – In case the above points haven’t made it clear, Turkey is a country of Turks, not Arabs, and the language is also distinct. With a few additions and subtractions,Turkish has a Latin alphabet, thanks to yet another Atatürk reform (see why they love him?), and while it has some “loanwords” from Arabic (it also has many from French, Persian and English), it’s closer linguistically to Mongolian, Korean and Japanese. The concept of vowel harmony and subject-object-verb grammar have confounded many new speakers like myself, but you’ll have a much easier time reading Turkish than Arabic. At the airport, will you hail ataksi or a تاكسي?

8. It’s a war zone – Turkey has had a few small-scale bombings in the past decade, which are scarily detailed on the U.S. State Department’s page on security threats. This has resulted in increased security in large hotels, malls, museums and office buildings, and it’s common (if a bit jarring) to see metal detectors and car trunks checked on entry in such public spaces. All that said, you aren’t going to see tanks rolling through Istanbul, and you aren’t likely to be in danger unless you are in the far east of the country. How about their neighbors in conflict? Turkey is a huge country, slightly larger than Texas, and Istanbul itself is closer geographically to Athens, Milan, and Zurich than it is to Tehran, and over 500 miles from Syria. The possibility of terrorist attacks are, unfortunately, a part of life no matter where you are, and Istanbul is as safe as any major world city (and with lower street crime than most other European capitals). In many ways, I feel safer in Istanbul than New York.

9. They hate Americans – Despite the above mentioned security threats and February’s embassy bombing in Ankara, the U.S. State Department does not warn against general travel to Turkey, and Turkey is considered an important ally of the United States. You are advised to “stay current with media coverage of local events and be aware of their surroundings at all times” in Turkey, as with anywhere in the world. Turkey does not condone the actions of Al-Qaeda or any other terrorist organizations. On a micro level, you will rarely encounter anti-American sentiment in Turkey, and you will find most Turks to be friendly, helpful and big fans of American culture (“Mad Men” and “How I Met Your Mother” are quite popular).

Of course, it’s impossible to make blanket statements about any one culture or country, and many of the current events and issues happening in Turkey are beyond the scope of a travel blog, but we hope more Americans will discover what a safe, modern and hospitable country Turkey is and plan a trip there themselves (Turkish Airlines is one of the world’s best airlines and has some great deals this spring).

Any other myths or generalizations you’ve heard about Turkey? We’d love to set you straight! Share your experiences traveling in Turkey with us.

[Photo credit: Flickr user James Cridland]

March 8, 2013
Milan & Phoenix – Istanbul (Not Constantinople)

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There’s one particular season that inspires the tunes of Chris Milan and Jay Phoenix: summer! Last year, it was their ‘Carnival’ that became the summer’s essential, this year it’s the feel-good tune of ‘Istanbul (Not Constantinople)’ that’ll get you dancing!

Avid EDM fans since the early 90’s and rocking things out together since the millennium years, the Milan & Phoenix duo have grown their very own style and sound.

Residing in the happy, sun-drenched, feel-good type of tunes, Milan & Phoenix bring in their latest weapon for the summer of 2012: ‘Istanbul (Not Constantinople)l’. Named after one of the world’s richest cultural cities, it throbs with a deep and layered bass, kicks in with catchy vocals and brings you a warm, playful melody.

Another sunny tune from the dynamic duo!

Tracks:

Istanbul (Not Constantinople) (Radio Edit) (02:27)
Istanbul (Not Constantinople) (Original Mix) (04:19)
Istanbul (Not Constantinople) (Club Mix) (05:51)
Istanbul (Not Constantinople) (Club Mix Edit) (02:53)

July 31, 2012
Muppets Tonight, Pierce Brosnan and Istanbul

Muppets Tonight, Guest starring Pierce Brosnan.

Muppets Tonight, Season 2, Episode 4, 1996 (first aired 1997). Guest starring Pierce Brosnan.

July 29, 2012
Why Turkey cannot break into EU despite economic crisis

By Kevin Connolly
BBC News, Istanbul

The eurozone crisis seems to show no sign of stopping, but for some countries outside the European Union, like Turkey, the appeal of membership remains strong.

If you put your mind to it, you can write popular music lyrics about pretty much anything – as the lyricist behind the unwarranted bravado of “we’re going to hang out the washing on the Siegfried line” could tell you.

When British forces recaptured the strategically important town of al-Burdi on the coast of Libya during World War II the event was swiftly celebrated with the breezy toe-tapper: “Where do we go from ‘ere, Now that we’ve captured Bardia.”

The Anglicised pronunciation made it rhyme of course, but it also celebrated a sort of high-handed genius for making those foreign place names sit more comfortably on the colonialist tongue.

At the core of the difficulties is a European ambivalence over what Turkey is and indeed where it is

But surely the most improbable source of musical inspiration of all time is the shifting historical identity of the great Turkish city of Istanbul which straddles the Bosphorus and links Europe to Asia.

In the late 1920s one of America’s best-known jazz orchestras recorded a song commemorating the city’s old name – “Constantinople”.

It has not dated well – you sing the name out in full and then the rest of the chorus consists of spelling it out at dizzying speed: “C-o-n-s-t-a-n-t-i-n-o-p-l-e.”

It probably was not written with any real political intent but it did commemorate the fact that before the city was conquered by the Muslim Ottoman Turks, it had served as the capital of the Byzantine Empire, that wobbly Christian edifice built on the ruins of Rome.

A few years later a sort of musical rebuttal was produced which became a much bigger hit.

It was called “Istanbul, not Constantinople” and contains the immortal line “Why did Constantinople get the works, that’s nobody’s business but the Turks.”

It was written incidentally by a Northern Irish songwriter called Jimmy Kennedy who was a bottomless font of eccentric inventiveness.

He was responsible for hanging out the washing on the “Siegfried Line” but he also wrote “The Teddy Bear’s Picnic” and the “Hokey Cokey”.

He captured, with surprising deftness, an ambiguity in the Turkish identity.

On a fault line between the worlds of Christianity and Islam and between Europe and Asia, it feels as though it does not quite belong anywhere.

That might be the reason why negotiations over Turkey’s membership of the European Union have now dragged on for a startling 52 years and are still nowhere near any kind of conclusion.

Despite the current economic problems in the EU, Turkey is still keen to join

People who were still in primary school when the process began now qualify for free public transport.

Some of the obstacles are problems that Turkey could have fixed for itself – like its penchant for locking up inconvenient or recalcitrant journalists.

But there is no doubt that at the core of the difficulties is a European ambivalence over what Turkey is and indeed where it is.

There is a revealing video clip of President Sarkozy of France, which you can find on the internet, where he is asked why he does not think Turkey should be allowed into the EU. He pauses before replying, “Because it’s not in Europe.”

A lot of Turks find that kind of talk both irritating and insulting.

After all no such reservations were raised during the Cold War when Turkey which bordered both Communist Bulgaria and the Soviet Union was very firmly in Nato, that other club of wealthy democratic nations.

There is a feeling that Turkey is being asked to guard the camp, without being allowed to enter the tent.

Over the course of the 52 years of talks a few things have changed in and around the European continent.

Turkey back then was desperately poor and underdeveloped and saw the EU as a source of aid more than trade.

Now, it is booming and it has a sound banking system run on old-fashioned principles.

From the Turkish perspective you can see how the European Union might be parodied as a rather odd club in which the thrifty hard-working north ends up bailing out the sun-bathing south. A club no-one would want to join.

And if Turkey ends up negotiating membership through the years of plenty and finds itself ultimately joining the EU in leaner times you can see why it might feel its being invited to a restaurant so late that it misses the feast but arrives in time to pick up the bill.

And yet Turkey is still desperately keen to join the European Union – in common with quite a list of other countries in south-eastern Europe.

That might conjure an image of swimmers striking out desperately towards a sinking ship in choppy waters but to lots of people in Turkey it still makes perfect sense.

They argue that the rules of the European Union amount to a kind of instruction manual for running an economy and a modern democratic state.

They realise that some of the current members have been ignoring the instructions of course – with consequences that may ultimately be disastrous. But, runs the argument, the rules themselves are still valid and are the best blueprint of their kind available anywhere.

Turkey does occasionally toy with the idea of becoming a kind of regional super-power in the Middle East – reviving influence in the turbulent lands where it once exercised imperial power.

But no amount of talk about the rise of a new Ottoman identity will displace that old itch to be invited into the European Union.

It is hard to be sure exactly what drives this Turkish ambition – a desire to be recognised as the equal of France or Germany, a hunger for global recognition of its growing wealth and modernity, perhaps a feeling that a country of Muslims should be allowed to join what has been an essentially Christian club.

And if at this troubled moment in European history those ambitions are a little harder to understand, well, as our songwriter put it all those years ago: “That’s nobody’s business but the Turks.”

November 13, 2011
Istanbul not Constantinople

TOM MITCHELSON

THERE are scores of people queuing inside Hagia Sophia, a magnificent museum in the ancient city of Istanbul.

They are lining up to touch the perspiration of an angel. They believe that hundreds of years ago the cherub was imprisoned in a column and his sweat slowly drips out of a small hole.

A man standing next to me tells me that the wetness is simply caused by a crack in the marble and he doesn’t think the ‘sweat’ will cure infertility or diseases of the eye, as legend has it. I’m worried about the former, but I don’t believe in the cure, so I make my way to the central part of the building.

Hagia Sophia was built in the sixth century and intended to be the greatest church in the world. Its size, giant dome and mosaics would make this the case today, if it hadn’t been converted into a Mosque nearly a thousand years after it was built, and then later into a museum.

I have always wanted to come to Istanbul, largely because as a child I liked a song called “Istanbul (not Constantinople)” and was eager to know why the confusion. It’s a historic city that’s had a number of name changes down the centuries. It’s been Constantinople, Byzantium and in 1922 became Istanbul. I had also heard how it was the only city in the world that straddles two continents.

This is how I find myself looking out of my hotel window in Europe and staring out across the choppy waters of the Bosphorus to watch some people having dinner in a pavement café in Asia.

I’m staying at the Hilton Istanbul, which I discover is a historic hotel. It dates from 1955 and was a magnet for Hollywood film stars, heads of state and members of royal families. Among its guests were Frank Sinatra, Brigette Bardot, Sophia Loren and Grace Kelly, and it still maintains a certain air of grandeur.

But time for some serious sightseeing. I head to the Basilica Cistern, also known as the Sunken Palace and famous as a background artist in the James Bond film, From Russia With Love. This is a huge underground chamber that used to store water for the city.

The marble columns supporting the massive stone ceiling, and the atmospheric lighting, make the cistern look a bit like a five star hotel lobby that’s had a problem with its drains. The whole building can hold 17million gallons of water, but now there’s just enough water for hundreds of carp to frolic in. Towards the back of the cistern are two blocks of stone with the face of the mythical creature, Medusa, carved into them. One has been placed upside down and the other on its side. This is to avert their gaze, which mythology claimed would turn human beings to stone. Looking around at the scores of mobile tourists it seems to be working.

It is not hard to see why this city was awarded the European City of Culture title last year. Perhaps the most interesting attraction is the Topkapi Palace, for centuries home to the city’s rulers. It houses a collection of beautiful, precious jewel-encrusted exhibits to rival the British crown jewels and has magnificent views of the Bosphorus and Sea of Marmara.

There’s also the Harem (bear in mind you have to pay separately for this part of this palace). This building is a series of inter connecting tiled rooms, some with lattice shutters to keep out prying eyes, and others with beautiful stained-glass windows and elaborately painted ceilings. It is here the Sultan of the day would indulge his fantasies surrounded by his 300 or so concubines, who were supervised by eunuchs. Whatever floats your boat, I guess.

Exquisite

I spent nearly four hours wondering around this exquisite Palace and the only room I avoid is the ‘circumcision room’, because I didn’t like the name.

It’s quite easy to get mosque fatigue in Istanbul but one you shouldn’t miss out on is the Blue Mosque, directly opposite Hagia Sofia. Here the faithful are still called five times a day, as they have been for centuries. Having transferred my shoes to a plastic bag I make my way into the hallowed place of worship. 20,000 blue tiles line the domed building. My nostrils are assailed by the aroma of hundreds of sweaty socks, but this still can’t detract from the majesty of the design.

I am informed by an attendant that the upper levels are for the women worshippers. When I ask him why the separation, he tells me when women bend over to pray, men’s minds may wander from God.

Digesting the searing accuracy of this remark I make my way to the Grand Bazaar, which has been there for nearly 600 years. It is a labyrinth of streets and over 5,000 shops. This is where you’ll literally find more carpets than you can bargain for. The vendors are respectful and don’t hassle you, although they might invite you in for a cup of tea, and in my case, ask whether I could look after the shop for ten minutes.

Istanbul has always sounded exotic to me and as I gaze out across the city skyline, with a heat haze hanging above the minarets and the call to prayer echoing against the walls of modern office blocks and mixing with dance music from the many bars in the city centre, I realise it’s not quite the mystic east as I imagined it at the age of eight, but it is a city with a noble and compelling history.

via Istanbul not Constantinople | The Sun |Travel.

May 5, 2011
Istanbul, Not Constantinople (Travel Blog)

…finally.

If you don’t know this song, go look it up on iTunes, but not without the warning that YOU WILL NOT BE ABLE TO GET IT OUT OF YOUR HEAD!

Our last stop on our magnificent Aegean Adventure was Istanbul – Europe’s 2010 Capital of Culture (or something like that… the signs were everywhere). And, it was quite cultural. Unfortunately, we really didn’t have the best timing as we arrived on the night that Muslims break their month long Ramadaan fast, and the next two days were a national holiday. We still had a great time, but a lot of businesses were closed and practically everyone from all around Istanbul came into the city to celebrate. The first day we were there, two major sites didn’t open until 1pm and the Grand Bazaar was closed the entire time. Bummer. Oh well, we definitely made the best of it and still saw quite a bit.

We arrived at night and were very tired, so we had some baklava and a drink at a little cafe and went to bed. Our hotel was in the Sultanahmet District, so the next morning we enjoyed our breakfast from the rooftop restaurant in our hotel overlooking Istanbul and then set out to see some sights. This is when we realized pretty much everything we wanted to see was closed until 1pm except the Sultanahmet Mosque (Blue Mosque), which was so incredibly crowded, we didn’t even try to go in. It was also pretty warm that day, and I did not have appropriate attire with me (legs covered and scarf to cover head and shoulders). Matt was wearing shorts, as well, so we decided against waiting in line forever, because we didn’t want to be disrespectful by entering a holy place in our western attire. Instead, we just started walking and ended up walking along the Bosphorus outside the walls of the old city, and then walked through a pretty park back to Hagia Sophia. Let me just say that besides the fact that I have blonde hair and blue eyes, I stuck out like a sore thumb. I was wearing a dress that I wouldn’t call extremely modest but I certainly wasn’t letting my goods hang out. Holy looks from men, Batman. I had every intention of keeping my shoulders covered when we were there, but it was just too warm that day. Between the heat, the looks, the crowds and just being tired, I was pretty sassy. Not to mention, the entire time we were there, I couldn’t get over how little regard people had for your space or for the concept of waiting your turn. Pushing, shoving, cutting in line, etc. seemed to be totally acceptable. I ended up getting pretty pushy just to hold our ground. It was crazy.

Anyway, so we had to wait in line for a bit (and try to keep people from pushing their way to the front), but we finally made in into Hagia Sophia, and it was really neat. It was a Byzantine church that was converted to a mosque during the Ottoman era, and then when Turkey became Turkey in the 1920s, the government converted it to a museum. It was really neat to see the Christian and Islamic religions coexisting in a beautiful building. (As a side note: if you don’t know much about Islam, I highly recommend looking up the 20/20 program that aired recently. I felt like I knew a lot about the religion, but I learned a lot from that program. With all of the tension toward Muslims in America today, I think everyone should watch it.)

After lunch and a quick nap, we walked around a bit more and decided to take a ferry to Asia. I was obsessed with stepping foot on another continent, since we were so close. Earlier in the day, Matt asked me if we were going to China. LOL literally. For being so smart, he sometimes says some funny things. He was serious. He was none too thrilled about getting on this ferry, but we made it to Asia and back with no problems, but a lot of stares. That night we grabbed a yummy dinner and then walked around the Sultanahmet District enjoying the nice weather, pretty fountains and the sites all lit up.

The next day we visited the Topkapi Palace, which was awesome. I was just in awe of the history, the riches, the tiles, the architecture… everything. It was amazing. Honestly, the pictures do not do it justice. It amazed me how well preserved everything was. We did the audio tour, which was pretty good but I would have liked even more information. I honestly wish I would have read a book on the history of Istanbul and the Ottoman Empire before we went. Yes, I am a dork and I love PBS documentaries. And, I am okay with that. After we saw all we wanted to see, including the Harem, we walked through the park and found some yummy street food for lunch. Since we couldn’t go to the Bazaar (TOTAL bummer), we relaxed for a bit and made appointments for the Turkish Bath. That was a really fun experience. Matt had never even had a massage before, so I wasn’t quite sure how he was going to feel about half naked men scrubbing him down and massaging him while he was also half naked, but he enjoyed it. He did note that his guy did not say a word to him but my guy wanted to talk to me the whole time. I will save you from the picture of one possible reason… my amazing outfit. Let’s just say it consised of a plaid flannel like fabric “bikini top” and shorts and was a tight squeeze for the girls. After the bath, we once again dined al fresco (besides airports, we never ate a meal inside during the entire trip) on the same street as the night before. After dinner, I figured, “when in Rome Istanbul,” so we smoked a hookah. Mind you, I’ve never even smoked a cigarette, not even a puff, but surprise… I didn’t die! It’s not something I would seek out to do, but I guess I kind of enjoyed it, and I did feel a little light headed. Whoa… Kristin’s getting crazy up in here! After that, we packed up and got ready to depart back to the good ol’ USA. We had an amazing trip, but we were ready to be home… unfortunately, our flight was majorly delayed, so we hung in the airport for about 8 hours and missed our connecting flight. Oh well, ’tis life. We made it home safe and sound, happy for our experience abroad!

http://sepia-tone-lovin.blogspot.com/2010/12/istanbul-not-constantinople.html

December 2, 2010