Tag: Haydarpasa

  • Sultan Abdülhamit II’s architectural legacy stands strong

    Sultan Abdülhamit II’s architectural legacy stands strong

    18 March 2012, Sunday / MEHMET SOLMAZ, İSTANBUL SUNDAY’S ZAMAN
    Late Ottoman İstanbul was renowned for its public buildings that were constructed during the reign of Sultan Abdülhamit II — the last sultan to exert effective control over the Ottoman Empire.

    ottoman

    İstanbul’s century-old Haydarpaşa Railway Station was built during the reign of Sultan Abdülhamit II, in 1908. (PHOTO SUNDAY’S ZAMAN, M. FETHULLAH AKPINAR)

    Many of these are still in use in Turkey today and their stories have recently been compiled into a fascinating book by a university lecturer. A thick, hardcover volume written by Yıldız Technical University lecturer Fatmagül Demirel, “Sultan II Abdülhamid’in Mirası — İstanbul’da Kamu Binaları” (Sultan Abdülhamit II’s Heritage — Public Buildings in İstanbul) illuminates the construction history and present condition of 13 public buildings built in the time of Sultan Abdülhamit II.

    The book, which was printed and financed by the İstanbul Chamber of Commerce (İTO), has high quality gilded pages. It includes the following buildings: the School of Fine Arts (Sanayi-i Nefise), Sirkeci Train Station, the Royal Museum (Müze-i Hümayun), the Halkalı School of Agriculture, the Ziraat Bank building, the Almshouse (Darülaceze), the Ottoman Public Debt Administration Building (Düyun-ı Umumiye Binası), the Abdülhamit Children’s Hospital (Hamidiye Etfal Hastanesi), the Ministry of Forestry, the Mining and Agriculture Building, (Orman Ma’adin ve Ziraat Nezareti), the first Ottoman school of medicine (Mekteb-I Tıbbiye-i Şahane), the Ministry of Property Records (Defter-i Hakani Nezareti), the Telegraph and Post Ministry and Haydarpaşa Train Station.

    The book, as visually rich as it is informative, was published to showcase an era when Ottomans showed great interest in establishing new institutions and building strong and magnificent buildings for these institutions.

    Demirel explains in the book’s introduction, “In the changing face of 19th century İstanbul, instead of seeing huge monumental mosques, İstanbul lent itself to new buildings like military barracks, new palaces near the Bosporus, new school buildings, clock towers and new administrative buildings. Thus we can say that, after the reforms, the winds of change also affected the buildings.”

    Darülaceze — which derives from the Arabic words “dar,” meaning home, and “aceze,” meaning weak or incapable — is a homeless shelter for those without families, built by Sultan Abdülhamit II when the number of beggars in İstanbul increased enormously, most of whom were not disabled or orphaned, but simply preferred not to work.

    The historic Darülaceze comprised 18 smaller buildings, including rooms for the staff, four buildings for Muslims and four buildings for Christians. Under the dormitories, the buildings had dining halls and workshops where various goods were produced. The Muslim and Christian buildings both had public baths and two-story hospitals. Muslims were given a mosque and Christians were given two churches: one for Armenians and another for Greeks. Official records show that, after opening in 1896, Darülaceze hosted 9,394 people until 1909. In 1909 a total of 1,002 people were living in Darülaceze, including one Bulgarian, 50 Jews, four Armenian Catholics, 63 Armenians, 122 Greek Orthodox and 762 Muslims.

    Hamidiye Etfal Hastanesi was the first children’s hospital in Ottoman history and it now serves as a public hospital, called the Şişli Etfal Hospital. Sultan Abdülhamit II’s daughter, Ayşe Osmanoğlu, stated that her father decided to build a children’s hospital after his other daughter, Ulviye Sultan, died in a fire. Demirel quotes Osmanoğlu’s words in the book, in which Osmanoğlu reads her father’s words about the fire incident, “My daughter could not survive. I wonder how poor people’s children are growing up in hardship. I shall at least build a hospital to prevent other fathers from grieving in pain like me.”

    Furthermore, Demirel states that many of the Ottoman buildings that are now in use were built in the Sultan Abdülhamit II era. She adds that world-renowned architects built most of these buildings, including French-Ottoman architect Levanten Alexandre Vallaury, who taught architecture for 25 years in the School of Fine Arts; and Italian Raimonda D’Anarco, who built the Ottoman Bank building, the Pera Palace Hotel, the Tokatlıyan Hotel and the Ottoman Public Debt Administration Building.

    German architects also built many historic buildings in İstanbul, including A. Jashmund, Otto Ritter, Helmuth Cuno and Otto Kapp.

    Jashmund built the well-known Sirkeci Train Station, which was called “Osmanlı toplumu için batıya açılan kapı” (the door that opens to the West for Ottoman society). It was built on the historical peninsula on the European side of İstanbul in January 1871. It was not a coincidence for the Ottoman administration to build its first railway routes in the European part of the state. In fact, Ottomans intended to quickly transport their army with trains, when there was a need to suppress a possible rebellion.

    Turkey’s famous Haydarpaşa Railway Station, which is still in use, was built by German architects Ritter and Cuno. But Turkey’s busiest rail terminal is now taking a break in service for the first time since the station’s main building opened in 1908. Service has been interrupted so that improvements on the high-speed train (YHT) line to Ankara and the Marmaray project, which will connect İstanbul’s Asian and European sides via an undersea commuter train line, can be completed. The decision has sparked anger and frustration among people of all generations, many of whom see the move as typical of a trend pushing urban renewal in İstanbul to the detriment of preserving historic structures.

    The book contains detailed information history of many buildings, with hundreds of new and old photographs. The İTO stated that it plans to distribute the book all around Turkey soon.

  • HAYDARPAŞA RAILWAY STATION

    HAYDARPAŞA RAILWAY STATION

    For over a century, the historic Haydarpaşa Railway Station has stood as an iconic image on Istanbul’s skyline and as the symbolic gateway to the city. Built by the German-owned Anatolian-Baghdad Railway and designed by architects Otto Ritter and Helmuth Conu, the station was a terminus of the Istanbul-Medina-Damascus railway line and later for routes to Anatolia. Heavily damaged during World War I but rebuilt in its present configuration, Haydarpaşa witnessed the country’s transformation from the Ottoman Empire to the Turkish Republic. Generations share a nostalgic attachment to the building and all it represents.

    TUR Haydar 3New transportation avenues will render the station obsolete, and there are plans to redevelop the building, which was recently damaged by fire, along with a large tract of adjacent rail yard. Improvements in transportation planning and infrastructure in many urban areas increasingly challenge the capacities and functionality of traditional stations and similar, large-scale historic structures. Their redevelopment presents important opportunities for protecting cultural resources while improving quality of life. There is strong community support for an adaptive reuse of Haydarpaşa Railway Station that will preserve public access and open space, as well as balance economic, environmental, and social concerns. Its redevelopment requires public engagement and transparency, and could serve as an important model for reinventing cultural heritage in the context of changing cities.

    UPDATE

    In January 2012, Haydarpaşa Railway Station closed to allow for the construction of a high-speed rail line between Istanbul and Ankara. Planning for transportation in the greater region and for development of the area around the station is in formative stages, and the future use of the station has yet to be determined.

    February 2012

    via HAYDARPAŞA RAILWAY STATION | World Monuments Fund.

  • Last train departs from historic station

    Last train departs from historic station

    Istanbul’s historical train station Haydarpaşa sent a train eastward last night at 11:30, marking the last time a passenger train will leave the station for a long-distance journey.

    The main building for Haydarpaşa train station has been in use since 1909. AA photo
    The main building for Haydarpaşa train station has been in use since 1909. AA photo

    The railway was partially halted due to the high-speed rail construction project between Ankara and Istanbul. During construction a 44-km part of the railway will be closed for the next two years between İzmit in the western province of Kocaeli and Istanbul.

    When the high-speed train is completed, the last stop of the railway is expected to be Söğütlüçeşme. But suburban trains will keep on working between Haydarpaşa and Gebze for another couple of months.

    Although the future of the Haydarpaşa train station is unknown yet, daily Radikal reported the station and its nearby area will be turned into a major complex including hotels and cultural and financial centers.

    Approximately 5 million passengers, mostly university students, used the railway each year, according to Turkish State Railroads (TCDD) statistics.

    Hüseyin Koç, a university student, said he has been using the railway for years but now was concerned about the transportation changes since they will not be able to use the train anymore. Koç said he has been paying only 7 Turkish Liras but now will have to pay 20 liras instead.

    “The train was cheap and comfortable. I am not in favor of privatization for such services,” Koç said.

  • In Booming Istanbul, A Clash Between Old And New

    In Booming Istanbul, A Clash Between Old And New

    by Peter Kenyon

    Istanbul2 wide

    Rapid building in Istanbul is remaking the city, and activists are seeking to preserve historic places. The Haydarpasa train station, which dates to the 19th century, is closing for renovations. But longtime station workers suspect the city will convert the station into a luxury hotel or other commercial property.

    On a frigid January morning, bundled-up travelers step off a ferry and scurry toward the imposing stone walls of the Haydarpasa train station, a 19th century landmark in Istanbul, a city full of history.

    The people boarding this morning are nostalgic. They’re longtime station employees, taking one of the last train runs to Eskesihir, where the station’s first director-general is buried.

    They’re going, as it were, to give him bad news — that Haydarpasa’s 150-year service as a public transportation center may be coming to an end.

    Officially, the station is closing temporarily, for repairs and the laying of high-speed track. But employees fear that during the two-year closure, the decision will be made to convert the station to a more lucrative purpose. Plans are still under discussion, but possibilities include a luxury hotel, perhaps with a museum, and a shopping mall.

    The potential closing of this iconic station is just one of the fast-moving major projects alarming urban planners and local activists.

    Working-class neighborhoods have been cleared of their inhabitants to make way for villas and hotels. Public schools and hospitals, some in historic buildings, are being sold to private developers. And a third bridge across the Bosporus is planned, which would bring roads and development to a large swath of forest land in the city’s northern reaches.

    The Prime Minister’s Plan

    It’s all part of Prime Minister Recep Tayyip Erdogan’s drive to revamp Istanbul and make its future as glorious as its past.

    With the new convention centers, sports and cultural centers that we’re building, we’re preparing the way for a modern future on a historic foundation. At the same time, we’re investing to turn Istanbul into the financial center of the world.

    – Turkish Prime Minister Recep Tayyip Erdogan on his plans for large-scale building in Istanbul

    “With the new convention centers, sports and cultural centers that we’re building, we’re preparing the way for a modern future on a historic foundation,” Erdogan says. “At the same time, we’re investing to turn Istanbul into the financial center of the world.”

    Erdogan’s comment is included in a new documentary film on the impact of growth on Istanbul. It’s called Ecumenopolis, a term coined in the 1960s to suggest a future in which sprawling metropolises merge into one giant urban dystopia.

    Director Imre Azem says in the course of making the film he learned that in 1980, urban planners agreed that the city’s geography could support a maximum population of 5 million.

    With a current population estimate of 13 to 14 million and a forecast that it will hit 25 to 30 million by 2023, Azem says the municipality should be much more concerned than it seems to be.

    More Commercial Space

    He’s also distressed by a trend that began well before Erdogan — the transformation of open and public spaces in the city into profit-generating commercial properties.

    One example is playing out in Istanbul’s main Taksim Square, part of which has been a park since the early 1940s.

    Until World War II, an Ottoman military barracks stood on the spot. The historic building fell into disuse and was demolished to create the park. But now, many trees have red marks on them, signifying that they will be cut down so the park can be turned into a shopping mall.

    Demonstrators in Istanbul’s Taksim Park protest against several development projects that would also include forced evictions from working-class neighborhoods. Yves Cabanne, a professor from University College in London, speaks to the crowd.

    Azem says developers have long coveted this prime property but were blocked by laws protecting the city’s green spaces. Then they hit on the idea, he says, of using Turkey’s laws on preserving historic buildings.

    “In order to protect this already-demolished building, they’re rebuilding it,” he says. “They’re saying they’re preserving it, but it’s already gone. They’re making a restoration of the old barracks, like an imitation, which will serve as a shopping mall.”

    Back when he was mayor of Istanbul, Erdogan took a strong stand on the project activists today fear most — the third bridge spanning the Bosporus.

    In 1995, then-Mayor Erdogan was quoted as saying a third Bosporus bridge would be “a crime” against the city. As prime minister, though, Erdogan has embraced the bridge, as well as new car and train tunnels.

    Opposition To A Bridge

    What infuriates critics of the bridge is what they call its transparently false rationale. It’s supposed to relieve Istanbul’s heavy traffic congestion, says activist Cihan Baysal, but its proposed location is much too far north to affect current traffic flows.

    “We just can’t believe it, really. Because that part of the city is where we have all the green — the forests, the ecological reserves, water reserves, water basins of the city are there,” Baysal says. “I mean, when you build a bridge, immediately you build the roads, you cut down the trees, all kinds of neighborhoods coming up.”

    Here’s how this stretch of the Bosporus, close to the Black Sea, is described in the city’s best-known guidebook, Strolling Through Istanbul:

    “Now for the first time on the Bosphorus one finds sandy beaches hidden away in romantic coves; gray herons haunt the cliffs … great clouds of shearwaters, those ‘lost souls’ of the Bosphorus, skim the surface … torn by frequent schools of dolphins. The scene is much the same as when Jason and his Argonauts sailed past on their way to Colchis in search of the Golden Fleece.”

    Several groups have sprung up in opposition to the various projects to transform parts of the city, but they’re hampered by disparate goals and small numbers.

    Supporters of the projects say they will improve living standards and create jobs. But activists say Istanbul residents could one day wake up in a modern, segregated city, with the rich locked in gated communities and the poor in high-rise public housing blocks. Critics say it’s a recipe for unrest, crime and a host of other problems mega-cities around the world are struggling with.

  • Istanbul’s Haydarpaşa railway station imperiled (Interview) (Includes interview)

    Istanbul’s Haydarpaşa railway station imperiled (Interview) (Includes interview)

    Istanbul – After an “accidental” fire, the Haydarpaşa railway station in Istanbul is slowly being restored to its former glory. Yet its future remains clouded by uncertainty.

    A famous landmark in Istanbul recently was damaged by an unexplained fire which apparently was due to a “short circuit” in the electric wiring. The roof has been badly damaged as a result of the calamity. Turkish officials have pledged to restore the roof. For its part, the New York City-based “World Monuments Fund” has undertaken to officially consider ( thanks to local and international preservation campaigns) to include the historic railway station on its watch-list.

    Here’s an exclusive Digital Journal interview with local architect and heritage preservationist, Mr. Mete Kiyan on the station’s historical importance and significance, to “Istanbulites” and foreign visitors.

    What is the importance of the station as a functional railway building for Istanbul?

    M.K: “Since it has been built in 1908 as the starting station of Istanbul-Baghdad railway line, Haydarpaşa Railway Station is a symbolic building connecting Anatolia with Istanbul. With being the most important point from where one reach to the European side in minutes, it is remarkable just because until now it has continued as a functional railway station, with no change of its function.

    “It is the old Istanbul that you see across the Bosphorus from the docks after passing through the station’s splendid halls. Namely, Haydarpasa Railway Station was always the last stop of a modern migration path from Anatolia to Istanbul. Furthermore, the mid-stop for transcontinental migration paths.

    “What is respectable in the short history is the fact that Haydarpaşa Railway Station is the witness of rural-urban migration for the last 50-60 years in Turkey, similarly the fast growing countries are facing today. As interesting is the fact that, Haydarpasa Railway Station was one of the rare buildings that people remember about Istanbul in their minds migrating from Anatolia to Europe for several years.”

    What makes this railway station a unique feature on the urban landscape of the city?

    M.K: “When looking to the European side from Anatolian ( Asian) side, the historic peninsula is seen as the Istanbul panorama… Or how about looking from European to Anatolia? It is the lonely Haydarpaşa Railway Station that you see as the symbol of Istanbul. It’s similar to how the Maiden’s Tower symbolizes the Bosphorus. Frankly, Haydarpaşa as a Railway Station is a symbol on the landscape, as important as any other building on the historic peninsula.”

    How can Haydarpaşa’s be preserved for future generations to admire and take delight in?

    M.K.: “I am concerned that Haydarpaşa Railway Station, will [likely] be out of function [or service] after the conclusion of the Marmaray project. It is to be transformed willingly or unwillingly though existing and preserving, its own function for now. After that transformation, there should be at least a museum expressing the station’s importance in the history [ of Istanbul] . As it has served the public so far, it must be transformed as a public space hosting art and cultural activities, with its surrounding landscape remaining intact. All these should be done part by part, via architectural competitions to be held numerous times.”

    via Istanbul’s Haydarpaşa railway station imperiled (Interview) (Includes interview).

  • Istanbul’s woes under one burned roof

    Istanbul’s woes under one burned roof

    IŞIL EĞRİKAVUKISTANBUL – Hürriyet Daily NewsWhat will happen to the Haydarpaşa train station following a devastating fire is only part of a larger debate about redevelopment efforts in Istanbul and whether city landmarks will be privatized or preserved for public use. Architects say current plans lack vision and focus on making profits, while local residents fret about the fate of a beloved symbol
    Firefighters stand next to the Haydarpaşa train station after a fire destroyed its roof. DAILY NEWS photo, Emrah GÜREL
    Firefighters stand next to the Haydarpaşa train station after a fire destroyed its roof. DAILY NEWS photo, Emrah GÜREL

    The building celebrated in literature and film as a gateway to Istanbul has become a stage for a real-life drama about the city’s future as theories and accusations swirl in the wake of a devastating fire.

    The Nov. 28 blaze at Haydarpaşa train station destroyed the roof of the century-old structure in Istanbul’s Kadıköy district; a few days later, it drew a crowd of architects, environmentalists, city planners and concerned citizens to a cramped meeting room in the same neighborhood to discuss the fate of the famous building.

    “Many people believe this fire didn’t happen so simply,” Sami Yılmaztürk, a member of the board of the Istanbul Chamber of Architects, said at the meeting Thursday, which he helped organize. “I think this is part of a plan to make city officials forget about Haydarpaşa.”

    Immediately following the fire, the repairs being done to the building’s roof came under scrutiny, with some claiming that the work had not received proper authorization.

    “The repair work was being done without getting the approval from the Kadıköy Mayor’s Office,” the district’s mayor, Selami Öztürk, said in a press meeting. “Those responsible for such neglect will be punished.”

    Redevelopment plans

    Though the fire attracted the attention of the public and the media to the fate of the train station, the controversy over Haydarpaşa and the area around it has been ongoing since 2004. To date, public announcements have been made about two different “restructuring” plans, one by the German company Drees & Sommer and the other by the Çalık Group, a Turkish firm known for its close ties to the ruling Justice and Development Party, AKP.

    “We want to design the whole area in a contemporary Ottoman style,” Şefik Birkiye, an architect with the Çalık Group, said at one point of his firm’s proposal. “We also want to develop an artificial strait with artificial canals, like in Venice, and we want to build seven copper towers to become the symbols of Istanbul.”

    The municipality initially agreed to both projects, but had to subsequently cancel them due to strong public opposition. In 2007, the Haydarpaşa train station was declared a first-degree historical monument, but two years later, the Istanbul Metropolitan Municipality created a new construction plan, the details of which remain unknown to the public. The new plan is currently awaiting approval from the Council of Monuments.

    “We are waiting for the results from the council,” an official from the Istanbul Metropolitan Municipality told the Hürriyet Daily News & Economic Review. “Only then we will announce the details to the public.”

    The Istanbul Chamber of Architects is also waiting to see what the council will decide. “[Haydarpaşa] is a first-degree historical monument, yet the Mayor’s Office insists on ruining it,” the chamber’s Mücella Yapıcı told the Daily News. “Until then [when the council decides] we want to concentrate on restoring the building.”

    Privatization threat

    Though it is no longer the bustling transit hub of days gone by, when the elegant 19th-century building represented the gateway to Anatolia, Haydarpaşa still serves as both a train station and ferry port and holds an important place in many locals’ hearts.

    “I have lived in Kadıköy since I was born and I see this building like a close friend or relative,” Güher Bayır, a member of the “Say No to the Haydarpaşa Project” Facebook group, told the Daily News. “Every time I see it now, my eyes fill with tears. To me it is one of the most beautiful symbols of the city.”

    Uğur Duman, another Kadıköy resident, agreed. “I have lived in this city for 50 years and it breaks my heart to see the Haydarpaşa building like this.”

    This emotional connection with Haydarpaşa is reflected in the dozens of films and books in which the station is a gateway to Istanbul for those stepping foot in the big city for the first time. The building has served as a backdrop in movies by classic Turkish directors such as Ertem Eğilmez and younger ones such as Tayfun Pirselimoğlu.

    “The image of Haydarpaşa in Turkish movies best represents for us the immigration flow from the villages to the cities in Turkey,” said writer Mahzun Doğan. “It represents a new lifestyle, full of hope and dreams for the rural people.”

    Supporters of preserving the building’s current form and function fear that the fire will pose a setback to their efforts.

    “The mayor’s office wants to cancel Haydarpaşa’s function as a train station and wants to privatize the area,” Hasan Bektaş, from the Haydarpaşa Solidarity Platform, told the Daily News. “Whether or not [the fire] was intentional, they might use it to completely cancel train services and isolate the area.”

    Added Yapıcı of the Istanbul Chamber of Architects: “They are now announcing that it will take at least two years to repair the damaged parts. We need to make sure train services are not limited while the work is being done.”

    Profit or loss?

    City planners say the Haydarpaşa issue is only part of a larger debate about the architectural transformation of Istanbul. “It is not just about Haydarpaşa but about the whole city, which is being closed off to the public,” Murat Cemal Yalçıntan, a city planner and a professor at Istanbul’s Mimar Sinan University, told the Daily News.

    “Istanbul has been being restructured since the 1990s and many of the public spaces in the centers have been transformed into secured areas,” Yalçıntan said. “I am not against transformation, but I am against how it is being done by the city administration. Instead of working with experts, universities and nongovernmental organizations, the city administration is only valuing projects that are profit-oriented.”

    A council needs to be formed to oversee how urban-transformation projects are carried out in Istanbul, architect Korhan Gümüş told the Daily News. “Right now they are just handled based on how much income they would generate,” he said. “There is no creative thinking, despite the fact that these are all industrial or cultural heritage sites.”

    Gümüş cited the example of the Ruhr region in Germany as a better model for carrying out redevelopment projects. “The Ruhr used to be a heavily industrial zone, yet when transforming that area, they first set up a committee to determine a vision for the new plan,” he said. “First we need to develop a vision; only then can we start planning.”

    As such debates continue, citizen activists plan to keep fighting to save Haydarpaşa, organizing a march Sunday from the Kadıköy port to the train station. “They are trying hard to remove Haydarpaşa from our collective memory,” said Bektaş from the Haydarpaşa Solidarity Platform. “But we will continue to resist.”