Tag: Hagia Sophia

Thousands pray for Istanbul landmark to become mosque

ISTANBUL (Reuters) – Thousands of devout Muslims prayed outside Turkey’s historic Hagia Sophia museum yesterday to protest a 1934 law that bars religious services at the former church and mosque.

Worshippers shouted, “Break the chains, let Hagia Sophia Mosque open,” and “God is great” before kneeling in prayer as tourists looked on.

Turkey’s secular laws prevent Muslims and Christians from formal worship within the 6th-century monument, the world’s greatest cathedral for almost a millennium before invading Ottomans converted it into a mosque in the 15th century.

“Keeping Hagia Sophia Mosque closed is an insult to our mostly Muslim population of 75 million. It symbolises our ill-treatment by the West,” Salih Turhan, head of the Anatolian Youth Association, which organised the event, told the crowd, whose male and female worshippers prayed separately according to Islamic custom.

The government has rejected requests from both Christians and Muslims to hold formal prayers at the site, historically and spiritually significant to adherents of both religions.

The rally’s size and location signals more tolerance for religious expression under Prime Minister Tayyip Erdogan, whose party traces its roots to a banned Islamist movement.

His government has also allowed Christian worship at sites that were off-limits for decades, as it seeks to bring human rights in line with the European Union, which it aims to join.

Turhan told Reuters his group staged the prayers ahead of celebrations next week marking the 559th anniversary of the Ottoman Sultan Mehmet’s conquest of Byzantine Constantinople.

“As the grandchildren of Mehmet the Conqueror, seeking the re-opening Hagia Sophia as a mosque is our legitimate right,” Turhan said in an interview.

Worshippers refrained from entering the museum, one of Turkey’s most-visited tourist destinations and whose famous dome is considered a triumph of Byzantine architecture.

Most Turks appear satisfied with it remaining a museum as a kind of compromise between its conflicting historic roles

via Thousands pray for Istanbul landmark to become mosque – Stabroek News – Guyana.

May 28, 2012
Under the spell of Istanbul

Magnificent historical structures in the Turkish city speak volumes of its rich history, writes Rizauddin Ibrahim

AHH… historic Istanbul! This crosses my mind the moment I lay my eyes on classic Ottoman buildings and the architecturally European-flavoured ones set along the shores of the Golden Horn.

I am on a boat cruise along the waters of the Golden Horn, a natural estuary of the Bosphorus Strait that divides this capital of Turkey into two continents — Asia in the east and Europe in the west.

That boat cruise is a surreal yet amazing voyage between the two continents.

The Golden Horn is a 7.5km- long, narrow estuary that forms a protected natural harbour.

For thousands of years, it has been a port of call for ships from the Greek, Roman, Byzantine and Ottoman.

Here was where the city once began and here is where I begin my journey in historic Istanbul.

ANCIENT DOMES AND TOWERS

Looking at the city skyline from where I am on the boat, I can already feel the historic aura. First, I clearly see the domes and towers of Hagia Sophia, Topkapi Palace and Blue Mosque which date from the year 530 to 1600.

As the boat cruises along the coast, one cannot help feeling impressed at the sight of Dolmabahce Palace, (1856), and Beylerbeyi Palace, a summer palace completed in 1865.

And there are many hundreds of years-old wooden villas and mansions along the shores that will make anyone envious of their owners.

Then comes the Rumeli Hasari or Rumeli Fortress that will leave you awestruck by its sheer supreme look. It was the largest fortress built by Sultan Mehmed Istanbul II in 1451 to control the sea routes of the Bosphorus to prevent aid from the Black Sea reaching the Turkish Siege of Constantinople in 1453.

Constantinople is the Byzantine name for Istanbul. It was under siege many times before Mehmet The Conqueror took the city in 1453 and made it the capital of the Ottoman Empire. Before that, it was the capital of powerful Roman and Byzantine Empire.

These ancient empires left these symbols of their past glories and best of all, these remnants are not scattered ruins of dull grey stones but large buildings which have defied the ravages of time. All these can now still be seen in the Sultan Ahmed District.

ROYAL DISTRICT

The Sultan Ahmed District is the heart of historic Old Istanbul. It is located on the peninsula bounded by bodies of water to north, east and south — the Golden Horn, Bosphorus and the Sea of Marmara, respectively. The area was declared a World Heritage Site by Unesco in 1985.

This is where Constantinople was located at the southern bank of the Golden Horn and parts of the defence wall of the old city still remain at the coast. Located on the European side of Istanbul, the old city is the best base for sightseeing in Istanbul.

As the most historic part of Istanbul, Sultan Ahmet District is where all the city’s significant landmarks like Hippodrome, Blue Mosque, Hagia Sofia and Topkapi Palace are located. Making it a complete tourist destination, the area has a number of good restaurants and hotels too.

HIPPODROME OF CONSTANTINOPLE

Though public transport is easily accessible, going on foot is the best choice to explore the old city. You should not miss going to Sultan Ahmed Square, actually the Hippodrome of Constantinople, the sporting and social centre of the city during the Byzantium era where horse or chariot racings were held.

Today, several fragments of the original structure that adorned the square during its glorious time are still standing. They are the monuments of the Spiral Column, Thutmosis Obelisk and Walled Obelisk.

The most recent addition to the square is the German Fountain, which is an octagonal domed fountain in neo-Byzantine style, constructed by the German government in 1900 to mark the German Emperor Wilhelm II’s visit to Istanbul in 1898.

THE BLUE MOSQUE

Adjacent to the Hippodrome is the Blue Mosque, or its official name, Sultan Ahmed Mosque. Built from 1609 to 1617, it is called the Blue Mosque for the blue tiles that adorn the walls of its interior. However, the tiles are mostly on the upper level, which is difficult to see.

Coming from the Hippodrome, I walk through a grand doorway on the western side to go to its inner courtyard.

Its architecture is better appreciated from the outside, especially under the bright sunlight from the Sultan Ahmed Garden at the northern side.

This grand building of Ottoman architecture with six minarets and cascading layers of domes is a sight to behold.

HAGIA SOPHIA

As you admire the Blue Mosque and praise its architect, Sadefkar Mehmet Aga, tribute should also be given to Anthemius of Tralles and Isidorus of Miletus, the architects of neighbouring Hagia Sophia.

They designed Hagia Sophia 1,000 years before Mehmet Aga was born. History goes that Sultan Ahmed 1, the Sultan of Ottoman ordered the Blue Mosque to be built to rival Hagia Sophia. And the result is two great architectural achievements standing next to each other in Istanbul’s main square.

Hagia Sofia or Aya Sofia in Turkish which means Church Of Holy Wisdom, was built from year 532 to 537.

At that time, its wide, flat dome was considered a daring engineering feat and became the world’s most impressive building and made it the greatest church in Christendom.

It then was turned into a mosque when Ottoman conquered the city in 1453 and continued to serve as Istanbul’s most revered mosque until 1935 when Kamal Ataturk turned it into a museum as we see it today.

Unlike the Blue Mosque, Hagia Sofia is best admired from the inside, especially from the mezzanine level. From this floor, the view of the prayer hall is the most impressive. The natural light is slightly dimmed under its massive dome but gloriously lit by the glittering gold from the 30 million pieces of tiny golden tiles.

These tiny pieces of tiles are mosaic images of the Virgin Mother, Jesus, saints, emperors and empresses, as well as geometric patterns.

As it was once a mosque, the wall has Islamic calligraphy arts that inscribe religious names including that of the first four caliphs Abu Bakar, Umar, Uthman and Ali.

It is under this great dome of Hagia Sophia that I find a perfect mix of both Ottoman and Byzantium, or Islamic and Christian.

These are the characteristics of two different cultures from two great empires that have affected present Istanbul.
TOPKAPI PALACE

Next to Hagia Sophia is Topkapi Palace, home of Ottoman Sultan for 400 years and the heart of Ottoman Empire.

The initial construction began in 1459 but after that, over centuries, the Palace Complex expanded to cover 80 hectares! This centuries-long construction included the major renovation after the 1509 earthquake and 1665 fire.

At its peak, the palace is home to 4,000 people but it is now the Topkapi Palace Museum housing many collections of historic objects from all over the Ottoman Empire and precious heirlooms that once belonged to Ottoman Sultans themselves.

A short visit to this palace will not do justice to it for it is a huge complex, made of four main courtyards and many smaller buildings.

The assortment of small buildings is fine architecture on its own. They are a result of the directives by many previous Ottoman Sultans who individually added and changed various structures and elements in the palace.

But the finest of all is the Fourth Courtyard or Imperial Sofa, the innermost private sanctuary of the Sultan and his family and has a number of pavilions, kiosks, gardens and terraces.

Here also is the special chamber called Chamber of the Sacred Relic, which includes the Pavilion of the Holy Mantle.

The pavilion houses what are considered the most sacred relics of the Muslim world, including the cloak of the Prophet Muhammad, two swords, a bow, one tooth, hairs of his beard, his battle sabres, autographed letters and other relics.

Several other sacred objects are also on display, such as the swords of the first four Caliphs, the staff of Moses, the turban of Joseph and a carpet belonging to Muhammad’s daughter.

The upper terrace has the Iftar Kiosk and Baghdad Kiosk where the Sultan customarily breaks fast during Ramadan with the view of the Golden Horn in the background. This is the best place to end the tour in Topkapi Palace.
GRAND BAZAAR

For a city that is proud of its heritage and culture inherited from two major empires, there is life in this city that stubbornly clings on to its old world ambience. That is the Grand Bazaar.

The oldest and one of the world’s largest covered bazaars, the bazaar spreads over 61 covered streets with more than 3,000 shops. Record has it that the bazaar attracts between 250,000 and 400,000 visitors daily.

It offers an excellent shopping experience especially for souvenir hunting, from Turkish carpets, glazed tiles and pottery, copper and brassware, apparel made of leather, cotton and wool, music instrument to all sorts of other things.

Thanks to the ambience, I can’t help but feel like entering Aladdin’s cave in some shops selling antiques.

This is the place to hone bargaining skills, which usually involves prospective clients having tea with the traders while bargaining for the right price.

Shopping in the Grand Bazaar is what many visitors list as among the things to do when visiting Istanbul. But for a more sizzling time, have a fine dinner with a belly dancing show thrown in.

Read more: Under the spell of Istanbul – Holiday – New Straits Times

May 17, 2012
Four ways to discover Istanbul

The Ayasofya is perhaps the greatest vestige of the Byzantine era. The structure – which measures higher than the Statue of Liberty – has seen countless wars and the rise and fall of several Empires over the course of its 2,000-year history. (Creative Commons)

Straddling two continents at the gateway to the Middle East, Istanbul has been one of the world’s cosmopolitan crossroads for centuries.

This Turkish metropolis, the last capital of the Ottoman Empire, boasts of medieval towers that occupy the cityscape in Istanbul’s Old Town, and modern skyscrapers dominate the skyline on the European side.

Here’s a guide to Istanbul’s finest draws.

Ayasofya

The Ayasofya is perhaps the greatest vestige of the Byzantine era. It was constructed by Emperor Justinian and once stood as the largest Christian cathedral in the world until it was converted into a mosque by the Ottomans. This structure – which measures higher than the Statue of Liberty – has seen countless wars and the rise and fall of several Empires over the course of its 2,000-year history. Today, tourists flock to the Ayasofya to marvel at its architecture and the paintings and mosaics within it.

Topkapi Palace

For almost 400 years, as the Ottomans ruled over Istanbul, Topkapi Palace was home to the sultans and governments of the empire. Sitting atop one of the city’s seven hills, this structure peers over the historic peninsula and out to the seas beyond.

The palace itself exudes exotic opulence from the outset with its tranquil first courtyard that leads to the magnificent Bab-üs Selam (Gate of Salutation). Throughout the rest of the grand complex, visitors will discover scenic courtyards, kitchens, gardens, and apartments, as well as the residences of the Ottoman rulers and governments. Navigating the entire palace can be a lengthy undertaking, but be sure to stop by the Holy Relics room, which holds many of the treasures amassed during a bygone era.

The Bosphorus

The iconic Bosphorus strait bisects the city of Istanbul, creating the boundary between Europe and Asia. Though several bridges traverse the divide, in recent years, the most fashionable way to negotiate the straits is by boat. A cruise up the Bosphorus will take you past some of the city’s most beautiful sites, like the grand Rumeli Fortress and colorful 18th century palaces strewn along the banks. While you may consider skipping some of the more touristy stops, a trip to the Sadberk Hanim Museum to view its impressive collection of Ottoman artifacts is a must for any history enthusiast.

Grand Bazaar

It’s wise to prepare yourself for a trip to the grand bazaar, as the sights, sounds and aromas emanating from this vast weaving network of streets and stalls can sometimes overwhelm the senses. The collection of stalls, restaurants, mosques, tea houses and fountains is said to be among the largest concentrations of stores under one roof in the world. At the center of this massive complex are the Inner Bedesten and the Sandal Bedesten, two large covered markets containing a wealth of vendors and eateries. Just outside the Western Gate lies the Sahaflar Carsisi, an old book bazaar selling new and antique texts in a variety of languages.

via Four ways to discover Istanbul | Fox News.

May 11, 2012
Day Four: Conversations on conservatism, social outlook on secularism

By Global Engagement Summit • March 20, 2012 at 5:30 pm

Day Four: Conversations on conservatism, social outlook on secularism

“The day is Tuesday. The place is Istanbul.” – Gora Dan(iel Olson)

It’s midnight and I’m sitting in the lobby of Hotel Monopol trying to start this blog post. Since arriving in Istanbul, this has become a ritual. We do so much during the day here that it’s difficult to coherently summarize everything. From two keynote speakers, visits to two mosques (one unofficial, the result of an adventure), shopping, and lots of small meals, I’m afraid to dive into any kind of conversation about my experiences today with the fear that I won’t do any of them justice.

Despite that fear, I’m going to try anyway.

Our first keynote speaker for today was Serra Titiz, owner of Mikado Consulting. Serra came to the hotel this morning to talk to us about social entrepreneurship and her accomplishments in working with movements toward social change, from women’s rights to more economic achievements in civil society organizations. The statement that stuck out to me most during her presentation was the idea that an active pursuit of social entrepreneurship involves “lifelong learning.” This concept is interesting because it encourages the idea that working in an area of social entrepreneurship constantly prompts dialogue, knowledge, expansion of one’s understanding of the field, and personal growth as an individual interested in social innovation. It’s also quite daunting to think about lifelong learning—especially going back to Ayse Inam’s presentation to us on “visions” and “inspirations.” As Northwestern students, the common goal in our community is to achieve financial success and personal happiness by gaining an incredible amount of knowledge to prepare us for a career. There is a sense that education has a beginning and a concrete ending before diving into a job—we go to college, pursue post-graduate studies, and end up with a lifestyle in which we find a solid career or try out many of them. Serra’s explanation on social entrepreneurship does not fit this financial and cultural “mold” that is associated with the American pursuit of financial and economic success. Can the concept of “lifelong learning” exist in harmony with the American “dream” of finding a steady job and sticking with it for the sense of consistency? I believe so—and I’m curious to see how a hybrid of these two conceptual outlooks can lead to achievement.

Our second event today was a visit to an exhibit that was inspired by social media, art, and film being used to make statements on social, cultural, economic, or even religious issues within Turkish society. We saw a photo exhibit called “Kemal’s Dream” that sought to eliminate stereotypes about various neighborhoods within Istanbul and Turkey. The interpretation of this exhibit in our group was incredibly diverse—some saw the exhibit as an important, effective social statement on the importance of secularism within a society and an abolishment of conservatism because of the social and cultural limitations that it sets on society. Others viewed the photo exhibit as a blatant or disturbing attack on conservatism and conservative people within Turkey, as if Ahmed Patol, the artist who compiled the exhibit, was actively promoting a secular state and calling for the abolishment of a conservative one.

I’m personally very conflicted on this issue and lean towards a defense of conservative values—but for personal reasons, not necessarily logical ones. For me, I think Islam is a vital aspect of Turkish society and to completely eliminate it or negate it in any way suggests that its historical implications and impact on the Middle East and Europe does not matter. I feel as though Islam has more than a religious value to Turkey—there are huge cultural impacts that the religion has had on political affiliations, personal identifications within the larger Muslim Ummah (community), as well as the social movements and changes that drive this country. Then again, there is a question as to whether these theocratic values have place in a society in which so much of the population wishes to move towards a more liberal outlook.

Some say you can’t fight the tide…but I personally don’t think the tide knows where it’s going. Mavara, our leader and rep from GES on this trip has said time and time again that Istanbul is suffering from an identity crisis, caught between the need for social exploration into liberalism and the burning desire to hold onto rich Islamic history and values—how can such a diverse, growing, changing population and city reconcile that? Is harmony of these two values even possible? I was left with lots of questions at the end of today, and I’m hoping that the debate panel on women’s rights will prompt more dialogue about the dissonance between secularism and conservatism and its true place in Turkish society.

I’ll leave you with this picture of a shot glass with the Haijar Sophia on it from the Lal Bazaar on Istikhlal Street.

via Day Four: Conversations on conservatism, social outlook on secularism « Northwestern.

March 21, 2012
Market to Pantry #26: Spice Market and Grand Bazaar, Istanbul, Turkey

From Nathan, in Seattle:

In November 2009 I visited Turkey on a scouting trip for a guided tour of Biblical sites. I was impressed with the beauty, the people, and not least of all the food. We had a couple of days at the end of the trip to visit Istanbul and it blew my mind. There were a few highlights, including the Basillica Cistern and the Hagia Sophia, but the Grand Bazaar and Spice Market proved to be the kind of places where I wish I’d had much more time to explore.

If I were to quickly describe both markets I’d say that the Grand Bazaar (in the top photo) was slightly more “touristy”, but also much larger and with a wider range of things to purchase. The sheer scope of that market was daunting. I remember standing at one crossroads; I could look in all four directions and see literally no end to the rows of shops. It makes Pike Place Market here in Seattle look like a 7-11.

The Spice Market was a little smaller, though still quite large, and it had more of a food focus. My impression was that it was where more of the locals did their shopping. In such a competitive environment the merchants are eager to be friendly, serve you free tea, and strike a deal.

Our guide had a particular favorite spot (which undoubtedly gave him kickbacks) and the actual process of shopping for the spices was quite fun. My wife gave me a list of some specifics she wanted me to bring home, which I did, but also added a few others based on what I tasted and liked. I can’t remember the exact prices of each, but wild saffron from the mountains of Turkey, for example, was maybe a tenth of the price of something similar in the States…IF you were able to find it here.

I made my selections and the merchants put them all in vacuum-sealed bags. I also purchased some dried fruits and nuts for the long flight home, which turned out to be an inspired and delicious decision. Later I realized the sheer volume of what I had purchased and considered the complexity of getting this through customs. To my relief the people at customs in both Turkey and the U.S. didn’t even raise an eyebrow at the spice haul, and I made it home with no issues.

In the nearly two years since then we’ve run through most of what I brought back. With the delicious range of concoctions my wife has made in that time using the spices, it’s starting to feel like another trip to Istanbul might be in order soon — this time with a bigger suitcase.

via Market to Pantry #26: Spice Market and Grand Bazaar, Istanbul, Turkey – The Perfect Pantry®.

February 12, 2012
Short Breaks In Istanbul

Top five things to do in the city where east and west collide

Short Breaks In Istanbul

FOR a city break that transports you to another time as well as another place, it has to be Istanbul. As the centre of two ancient empires, the Ottoman and Byzantine, it is rich in awe-inspiring historical sites.

For the adventurous traveller, it’s an exotic, otherworldly place packed with delights: wander the labyrinth of bazaars, relax in a traditional hamam, and experience a ‘hookah’ water-pipe café. But don’t expect a city stuck in the past. Modern day Istanbul is also home to chic cocktail bars, skyscrapers and a forward-looking cultural scene led by its younger generation.

Top Five Things to Do in Istanbul

The Sultanahmet Blue Mosque

Gaze at the cascading domes and six minarets of this magnificent place of worship. Decorated in turquoise mosaics, and dominating the skyline of Istanbul, it’s known as one of the most beautiful mosques in the world.

The Hippodrome

Head to Sultanahmet Square to find the ancient site of the Hippodrome of Constantinople where chariots once raced in front of cheering crowds. Nowadays, the race track is indicated with paving and the surviving monuments are set within a landscaped garden.

Topkapi Palace

Marvel at the grandeur of this Ottoman palace with its courtyards, gardens, and sacred relics including Moses’ staff and Muhammad’s sword. Spend a full day there if you can, taking in the Harem, the views over the Bosphorus, and the glittering riches of the Imperial Treasury.

St Sophia

Discover why this domed basilica is often referred to as the Eighth Wonder of the World. Once a church, and then a mosque, it’s now a well-presented museum. Its towering domes, minarets, frescoes and mosaics are one of the city’s most impressive sights.

Grand Bazaar

Brave the enthusiastic traders at this sprawling covered market spread across 58 streets. Jewellery, carpets, ceramics, and coloured lanterns are just some of the goods to be haggled over. Bargaining is obligatory – ask for prices at three or four different stalls before you buy.

via Short Breaks In Istanbul | Abroad | Planet Confidential.

January 20, 2012