Tag: Grand Bazaar

  • Turks look to mobile technology to change bazaar cash customs

    Turks look to mobile technology to change bazaar cash customs

    Turks look to mobile technology to change bazaar cash customs

    The Observer, Sunday 20 November 2011

    Istanbuls Grand Bazaar 007

    Istanbul’s Grand Bazaar

    Istanbul’s Grand Bazaar where, for the moment, cash is still king. Photograph: Kerem Uzel/Narphotos

    In Istanbul’s grand bazaar you can smell the money changing hands as tourists go into battle over carpets and fake designer handbags. Cash is king here – haggling prowess sets the price, rather than the beep of a barcode scanner. But that could be about to change, as young Turks embrace technology that could consign banknotes and tense verbal exchanges to the dustbin of history.

    The explosion in mobile phone use is changing the way Brits consume, but in Turkey, where half of the estimated 79 million citizens are under 30, it is offering new vistas to a rapidly urbanising population. This powerful demographic has encouraged banks and telecoms companies to choose Turkey as the test bed for the latest mobile payment systems, which essentially turn a phone into an extension of your wallet. Some 62 million Turks own a mobile phone, a startling statistic given that an estimated 40% do not have a bank account.

    “With mobile banking, the world has split into two: in developing countries the mobile network often has a greater reach than the banking system and can fill in the gaps,” says Paul Lee, telecoms research director at Deloitte. “Technology is empowering, and this is one way of getting money flowing.”

    The crowds of shoppers – all with mobiles clamped to their ears – in the fashion stores on Istiklal, Istanbul’s cosmopolitan shopping street, point to rising living standards. Per capita income is up from $4,200 in 2000 to $10,000 (£6,336) last year.

    “Sometimes you see people talking on two phones at once,” says Mete Güney of MasterCard. “And many people who don’t have a bank account do have a mobile phone.”

    As in other countries, he adds, the young love technology, but many are outside the banking system because of their age or lack of financial education. MasterCard’s network provides a secure backbone for mobile payments.

    In Galatasaray’s new home ground, the TT Arena, football fans can use “digital” rather than hard cash to pay for their kofte ekmek (meatball rolls) at half time. But the technology has more serious applications in countries where large numbers of people have moved away from rural areas and need to send money back home.

    This year Turkcell, the country’s biggest mobile phone operator, launched a prepaid card that can be registered on a mobile and used to pay for goods or send money – even where neither party has a bank account. The recipient uses a code to withdraw the cash from an ATM. More than 100,000 of the cards were sold in the first four months.

    “These people may never have been to a bank, but they come to our store at least once a month to top up their phones,” says Turkcell’s Cenk Bayrakdar. “For people who can’t get credit cards it feels like a credit card.”

    Silhouettes of cranes and half-built apartment blocks now rival Istanbul’s famous mosques on the city’s night skyline, and are the physical evidence of an economy that has grown at an average of 4.4% for the past decade. But Mert Yildiz of Renaissance Capital points out that Turkey’s current account deficit, at 10% of GDP, is one of the biggest in the world and that a huge shadow economy represents possibly a third of GDP. Some 40% of Turks do not report any income.

    He also has a problem with the Civets tag , which he says bands together a bunch of countries that have nothing to do with each other: “Turkey’s economy can grow 7% one year and contract 7% another.”

    Unemployment of around 10% is a structural issue for Turkey, as businesses struggle to absorb the 900,000 young adults who enter the workforce each year. Also, Yildiz says, soaring property prices point to a credit bubble, and although incomes are rising, distribution is increasingly unequal. “Better-educated young people are feeling better off, but in the suburbs and rural areas the picture is different.”

    Garanti, the country’s second-largest private bank, says its target is for Turkey to become a “cashless utopia” by 2023. This is in keeping with other ambitious goals for the republic’s centenary year and would force a formalisation of the underground economy.

    “The challenge for Turkey is to get more customers into banking,” says Garanti’s Mehmet Sezgin. Its new contactless credit card is called Trink (the name is supposed to remind Turks of the tinkle of small change) and the chip can be embedded in a mobile sim card or even a digital watch – although Garanti could not convince Swatch to make them.

    “We don’t have coin purses,” Sezgin says. (Decades of runaway inflation rendered Turkish coins irrelevant long ago.) And Turks never had cheque books, so personal banking “skipped a step” on the way to e-banking.

    Sezgin says 2m of the 600m card transactions the bank will process this year will be contactless, but expects that to jump to 18m in 2012: “We believe cash can be taken out of the equation if the technology can be consumed right,” he says. “Smartphones, tablets … all the time new technology is coming to market.” But will they ever take to it back at Istanbul’s famous market? “If my utopia is achieved, even in the grand bazaar they should only accept cards of one form or another,” says Sezgin. “I am an optimist.”

    via Turks look to mobile technology to change bazaar cash customs | Business | The Observer.

  • Istanbul – an enchanting blend of Eastern and Western Culture

    Istanbul – an enchanting blend of Eastern and Western Culture

    Istanbul is truly a world city, a city which everyone should visit at least once in their lifetime. It is an enchanting blend of Eastern and Western culture, a vibrant, modern city, with a unique identity, its rich past coexisting alongside its youthful exuberance. Although no longer the capital of Turkey, Istanbul remains the country’s cultural and business centre.

    5823910It is a city of contrasts, bustling with the cacophony of 21st century life, and yet achingly beautiful. It is set in a stunning location, surrounded by water – the narrow strait of the Bosphorus and the serene Sea of Marmara separating Europe from Asia. Istanbul has a foot in each, celebrating the best of both heritages. As Byzantium, Constantinople and finally, Istanbul, it has been the capital of three Empires, each leaving their mark in the form of stunning palaces, castles, mosques, churches and monuments. The legacy of its chequered past can be seen in every turn of the modern city.

    There is so much to see in Istanbul that it is impossible to cover everything. Here are just a few of those sites you simply should not miss:

    For opulence: Visit Topkapi Palace – there is so much to see here that you need at least 1/2 a day. Book a tour of the Harem when you arrive and don’t miss the stunning emeralds and other jewels.

    For atmosphere: Explore the world under the pavements, in the Yerebatan cisterns, which stored water for the Byzantine city, with their hundreds of columns, artfully lit to a soundtrack of classical music.

    For beauty: Marvel at the stunning mosaics which still decorate the walls of Haghia Sophia (Aya Sofya).

    For culture: If you only have time to visit one mosque make it the Blue Mosque – if you are in Istanbul for longer, take in the Süleymaniye too.

    For shopping: Visit the Grand Bazaar, where you will find yourself buying things you never knew you needed. Take a trip to Ortaköy to shop at the Sunday market on the shores of the Bosphorus.

    Shopping

    Istanbul is a great place to shop. Whatever you want to buy, you can find the whole range – from souvenirs in the Grand Bazaar to designer labels in exclusive malls. Shopping in the Grand Bazaar, Kapali Çarsi is a unique experience. Although some find the atmosphere overwhelming, if you get into the spirit of it, it is fun. The salesmen’s banter is lighthearted and they are experts at guessing nationalities from a distance and choosing their language accordingly. The Bazaar has thousands of shops, together with cafes, banks, a post office, police station and even a mosque – in fact a self-contained community. They sell everything here from cheap textiles to fine gold jewellery. Leather goods are excellent value as are ceramics, silver and, of course, carpets. It is worth a wander around the Bedesten, the oldest part of the Bazaar at its very centre, where they sell an eclectic range of antiques and bricabrac.

    Eating out and entertainment

    Nightlife in Istanbul is varied and vibrant – you can find the latest clubs, which are some of the best in Europe or a café with cushions on the floor, where you can smoke a hookah pipe or nargile. Wherever you choose to eat, whether you want a quick snack in the midst of sightseeing or a romantic dinner for two you are likely to find delicious food made from fresh ingredients, and can expect good value for money. If you want traditional street entertainers and musicians head to the area of Kumkapi near the Sea of Marmara, in the old town, famous for its fish, or the Flower Passage Çiçek Pasaji off Istiklal Caddesi. You can find excellent restaurants with views and many in historic buildings, as well as some very fashionable restaurants serving international cuisine. Istanbul is famous for its fish and seafood so you should try to eat fish at least once during your stay. There are some excellent fish restaurants along the Bosphorus.

    For an idea of where to go and what to do there are two English language publications, Time Out Istanbul and The Guide Istanbul, which are available in hotels and shops locally.

    Singapore Airlines flies up to 3 times daily from New Zealand to Singapore and then beyond to Istanbul with 6 flights a week.

    via Istanbul – an enchanting blend of Eastern and… | Stuff.co.nz.

  • The Grand Bazaar Istanbul

    The Grand Bazaar Istanbul

    yhst 30868769906465 2180 45196464The Grand Bazaar Istanbul

    BY Laziz Hamani (Photographs), Serdar Gülgün (Text)

    Cloth hardcover in luxury slipcase

    11½ x 14½” / 284 Pages / Over 200 Illustrations

    With its rich and colorful 500-year history, the Grand Bazaar in Istanbul has quite a story to tell. This luxury slipcase edition takes a comprehensive look at the world’s most vibrant and inspiring marketplace, replete with dazzling images by esteemed photographer Laziz Hamani and texts by an Istanbul-born Ottoman art expert and collector. Discover jewels, furniture, fabrics, silver, spices, antiques, collectibles, and much more in nearly 300 pages in this once-in-a-lifetime Assouline objet.

    Available October. Pre-Order now.

    $250.00

    via The Grand Bazaar Istanbul Book by Laziz Hamani (Photographs), Serdar Gülgün (Text) | A Comprehensive Overview of the History and Legacy of Luxury Art Crafts in Turkey | Assouline.

    BOOK SALES       SHOP

  • Inside The Grand Bazaar Of Istanbul With Assouline’s New Book

    Inside The Grand Bazaar Of Istanbul With Assouline’s New Book

    A new book from Assouline offers a stunning glimpse inside the treasury of Istanbul’s famed Grand Bazaar, one of the city’s preeminent tourist attractions. Deep inside the sprawling market, Inner Bedesten is the oldest part of the Bazaar and houses some of its most interesting — and valuable — treasures.

    r GRAND BAZAAR large570

    As author Serdar Gülgün writes:

    Constructed shortly after the Ottoman conquest of Istanbul, the Inner Bedesten is the oldest section of the Bazaar. Fortified against fire and safeguarded at all times, the Inner Bedesten is the most secure part of the covered market, where the most precious goods are kept. This vaulted structure lies at the core of the Grand Bazaar.

    Published by Assouline, the book explores not just Inner Bedesten but also other areas of the Bazaar, including its main alleyways, the hans, or travelers’ inns, and the fringe shops that appear and disappear on the market’s edges.

    The book is available for purchase at Assouline Boutiques worldwide and online at:

    via Inside The Grand Bazaar Of Istanbul With Assouline’s New Book (PHOTOS).

    https://www.huffpost.com/entry/grand-bazaar-istanbul_n_1010985

  • The heart will know a good deal at Istanbul’s Grand Bazaar

    The heart will know a good deal at Istanbul’s Grand Bazaar

    Mo Gannon

    Sep 17, 2011
    AD20110917643352 The city s spra

    The city’s sprawling Grand Bazaar is more than 500 years old; a labyrinth lined with thousands of shops and stalls that sell everything from carpets to spices. Getty Images

    The Rixos Elysium Suites Taksim in Istanbul.

    I’ve been sent into Istanbul’s Grand Bazaar on a simple mission: to drive a hard bargain. And I have failed on my first attempt, my heart softening like Turkish Delight while trying to buy a trinket from an old man. It seems I’ll brave a lot of things in the name of journalism but bargaining does not seem to be one of them. To me, the stress of haggling over such a small prize is just not worth the savings, especially when I’m trying to be a gracious visitor in a strange land.

    Before entering the maze of the covered market, its streets teeming with tourists who are all undoubtedly more ruthless, I enlist the help of my tour guide, Gunay Guc.

    Say I find something for 100 Turkish lira (the conversion is easy: double the price for dirhams), I ask. Gunay explains: “You will say, ’20’. He will say, ’50’. You will say, ’25’…”

    This seems rather outrageous and time-consuming, but I’m willing to give it a shot – just once.

    Already weary from touring Sultanahmet, my group has just over an hour before returning to the bus; the problem is how to begin. The sprawling bazaar, which has survived fires and earthquakes over its 550-year history, is a chaotic assembly of thousands of shops. The official online directory looks like a pirate’s treasure map, lacking any information about specific stores. And if you heed the guidebooks’ warnings about pickpockets and bag-slashers, it’s advisable to look like you know where you’re going.

    Most overwhelming for the first-time visitor (and novice haggler) is the range of goods: from the low-end (fezes, belly-dancing costumes, painted ceramics, Turkish linens and knock-off bags) to the high-end (jewellery, carpets, Islamic art and antiques).

    Entering through the Nuruosmaniye gate, clock ticking, I run the gauntlet of sellers at the cheaper souvenir stalls calling out: “Hello, lady, come into my store. Where are you from?”

    My only stop is Cevahir Bedesten, a cluster of shops that sell antiques under the market’s oldest dome, at the heart of what was once the Ottoman Empire’s centre of trade. A neon “Old Bazaar” sign designates the oldest of the old. Unlike the rest of the market, the halls are quiet, and the shopkeepers sit like librarians in their stores, seemingly uninterested in making a deal.

    Feeling more relaxed in the absence of touts, I browse windows full of old watches, revolvers, calligraphy, cameras, vases, subhas and jewellery boxes, none with listed prices. Then I stumble upon an open stall with copper lamps and other hardware hanging from floor to ceiling. “This is the best shop in the Grand Bazaar,” Ali Guzeldemirel boasts. “I’m here 50 years.”

    Ali brings me an antique brass whistle with a compass that I’d been admiring, normally 300 lira, but for me, he says, 250. I tell him that’s too much. (I’ve been told not to even try bargaining unless you’re sure you want something. Even more stress.) So, Ali shows me my next choice, an old lock and key. “Normally 200, but for you, 150,” he says.

    “How about 100?” I ask meekly. (By Gunay’s calculation, I should have started at 30.)

    He holds one hand over his heart, explaining he can’t bargain like the others. “I am an old man.”

    Now, for me, there are two kinds of people who are especially hard to bargain with: the elderly and children. This I learned at a bazaar in Goa, where a little girl I was haggling with over a bracelet clutched it to her chest and said, “Please, m’am, don’t break my little heart.” It was only after I parted with my rupees that I noticed her father smiling at me from a distance, as if to say: sucker.

    Anxious to return to the bus with something, I buy the lock. My tour mates, some of them hauling bags full of hard-fought bargains, turn up their noses. I show it to Gunay and ask him if I got a deal.

    “If your heart is OK, it’s OK,” he smiles, all too sympathetically. He has a point, though: why spend my time trying to save money by arguing with people, particularly if I’m not comfortable with the practice? Soft of heart, I need a different plan of attack.

    Taking my inspiration from Sultan Mehmed the Conqueror, the bazaar’s creator, I decide to return on my own time over the next two days in hopes of making a conquest. And even if I can’t master the art of a deal, I vow to discover the best places to spend my money.

    Back at my hotel, I pull out the coloured map I found online (www.grandbazaaristanbul.org). Searching the web, I discover the colours are codes: yellow for gold, pink for souvenirs, purple for fabric. While this isn’t strictly the case, it’s a good place to start. I mark down the “must see” stores, plotting my entry and exit gates.

    The next afternoon I begin at the Old Book Bazaar, outside to the left of the Beyazit gate. An alley with shops full of books in English and Turkish, it’s refreshing to browse in the open air before entering the market proper. This time, I make my way to Halicilar Caddesi, a street cutting through the middle of the bazaar. I find it to be a thoroughfare for more modern, hand-crafted goods, including: Iznik Art, for painted pottery and tiles; Cocoon, for felt hats and crafts; Cambaz, for woven jewellery; plus the funky Fes Cafe and its sister store, Abdulla Natural Products, where I pick up some stylish gifts including patterned Turkish towels, hand-made soaps and tealight holders with spinning whirling dervishes. I don’t even bother bargaining because it seems like a proper store, but I’m delighted with my purchases anyway, wrapped up with natural string and packed in a net sack.

    Somehow, I end up back at the Old Bazaar, where Ali Guzeldemirel remembers me. Having changed my mind about the lock, I ask if I can trade it in for the whistle and compass for the 250 lira he offered, and he makes the exchange without argument.

    As the prayer call sounds from one of the bazaar’s mosques, I walk down the hall to Bagus, a store I’ve read about that carries hand-crafted jewellery and beads from far-flung places. The owner, Faruk Kasik, sits at a desk inside. I admire his pieces, displayed in the nooks of his old stone walls. I’m just looking, I tell him, and he’s fine with that. He invites me to sit and have some tea, and we get lost in conversation about the bazaar’s history.

    At the end of the day, I exit through the Nuruosmaniye gate to visit a shop just outside, where I spotted a carpet bag hanging from a tree the previous day. At Pirlanta, I begin chatting with Rami, who tells me the bag is made from an antique kilim; he holds a lighter to it to prove how durable it is. It’s 450 lira, he says, but for me, 390. Still determined to cut a deal, I get him to settle on 350, and he helps me pack my belongings in it. (I later spot one like it in the bazaar for 550 lira, so this might be my first real deal.)

    On my third day, I’m starting to feel in the rhythm, more comfortable taking my time, more interested in having tea with the storekeepers than doing business. I begin by having lunch at the Fes Cafe’s other location, a stylish diner that’s a short walk from the bazaar. Zeynep Balaban, who runs the place, picks my bag off the ground and puts it in a chair. “We have a saying in Turkey that if you put your bag on the floor, no money will come,” she says, smiling. Maybe that’s my problem.

    I’m feeling sleepy from my lunch of chicken rolled with tirpasi and cheese (like a Turkish Cordon Bleu), but I’ve still got half of the bazaar left to cover. I enter through the eastern Kiliccilar gate and head north, past the alley of currency traders on their mobile phones and stopping by just to get a look at Zincirli Han, an old courtyard that houses the well-known carpet shop of Sisko Osman. Resisting the invites to step inside, I make my way to Perdahcilar Sokagi, to the shop of Muhlis Gunbatti, who specializes in antique Ottoman fabrics. By this time, it’s no surprise that the friendly man inside is Muhlis Gunbatti himself.

    “Sit here, princess,” he says, patting a bench. He tells me he’s been there 56 years, pointing out the old vaulted ceilings. A tea seller enters swinging a tray of tulip glasses and Muhlis asks him to serve me. “She is my guest.”

    He introduces me to his son Murat, who picks some vintage kaftans for me to try on. Near the end of the third day, I’m not in the mood to make a big purchase, but they’re happy to pass the time showing them off. Instead, I ask about a pomegranate vase on the shelf, ubiquitous in the market but these ones are hand-crafted. “If you get this, you will have good luck all of your life,” Muhlis tells me with relish. Already, I can feel another potential “sucker” episode coming on …

    In vain, I ask about the price. It’s normally 60 lira, he says, but for me, 40. “What about a deal?” I ask. His son smiles, “You already have a deal.”

    He’s right, of course, but not in the way he thinks. This occurs to me after I leave the store’s peaceful shelter. Murat has walked me out into the bazaar so he can show me the exit. He even gave me the coins to take the tram – a cynic would no doubt attribute his generosity to my paying way over-the-odds for the vase.

    Walking past a stall of pomegranate vases that look more mass-produced than the one I just bought, a seller tells me they’re 30 lira, and as I walk away, he calls out 25, then 20.

    But here’s the deal: I wouldn’t trade the vase I have thanks to the experience – the memory of the conversation and the hospitality – that is now attached to it.

    Go to the bazaar only in search of a bargain and you might miss the point: the steady rhythm of tea servers selling from store to store, balancing little glasses on hanging trays; men playing backgammon on folding tables in the alleys; workers weaving through the crowds with piles of carpets and trays stacked with simik; cats stealing naps on its paths. Just then I realise that I’ve lost my map, but it doesn’t matter to me. Now, I can truly say that I’ve conquered the bazaar.

    mgannon@thenational.ae

    If You Go

    The flight Return flights with Turkish Airlines (www.turkishairlines.com) from Abu Dhabi to Istanbul cost from €276 (Dh1,385), including taxes

    The stay Double rooms at the Ritz-Carlton in Istanbul (www.ritz-carlton.com; 00 90 212 334 44 44) cost from €275 (Dh1,385) per night, including taxes

  • 10 of the best markets in Istanbul

    10 of the best markets in Istanbul

    From backstreet haggling pits crammed with elbowing aunties to the best Louis Vuitton knockoffs in the city, Latifa Akay rounds up the best markets in town

    • Latifa Akay
    • guardian.co.uk
    • Çarşamba

      A sprawling weekly affair in an ultra-conservative area, the enormous Fatih Çarşamba (Wednesday) market – flogging fruit and veg, eggs and cured meats, outrageous stilettos, gadgets, branded clothing and, well, everything at rock-bottom prices – is not a place for the faint-hearted. Disorganised and wholly unruly, relentless sellers on table-tops wade among overflowing wares, bellowing prices and bagging goods at the slightest sign of interest. Favoured by locals, tourists are refreshingly absent, so keep the cameras under wraps, adopt a steely visage and don’t hold back from joining swarms of angry mothers raking through mountains of clothing, as these will, no matter how unlikely it seems, produce the occasional gem. Bags and loved ones should be kept close at all times.
      Kirmasti Mahellesi, 34083 Fatih

      Inebolu

      A genuine Istanbul “foodie” can be defined by their affinity with the Inebolu Sunday market, an Anatolian culinary carnival located in the downtown grime of Beyoğlu’s Kasimpaşa district. Tobacco-chewing sellers from the Inebolu Black Sea region of Turkey set off in their lorries on Saturday night to arrive in Istanbul at the crack of dawn, laden with the finest organic produce; chunky slabs of corn bread, bushels of fragrant herbs, thick pastes and purees, crates of eggs, bright flowers, splitting sacks of grain, walnuts and hazelnuts and bins of glistening olives. With beady-eyed punters beginning their forage as early as 6am, shalwar-clad damsels and their moustached counterparts police topsy-turvy stalls in a chorus of discordant bellows. A trip to Anatolia and back again – and all before breakfast. Shuts up shop early, at 4pm.
      Toprak Tabya Sokak, 34440 Küçük Piyale

      Spice bazaar

      A short walk from the Grand Bazaar, the 17th-century Eminönü Egyptian Spice Bazaar, open seven days a week, is another favourite of the camera-wielding, souvenir-seeking tourist. A bustling gastronomic paradise since 1664, this is the best place to pick up dried fruits and nuts, spices, olives, Turkish delight, oils and essences of the finest order. Bronze curios glint in the sun, torpedo-sized dates are stacked to the rafters, and the decadent scent of freshly ground Mehmet Efendi coffee merges with the aroma of fresh fish, with surprisingly non-toxic consequences. Marriage proposals should only be entertained if they involve free Turkish delight.
      Sururi Mahellesi, 34120 Fatih

      Yeşilköy

      Living up to its tranquil title, Yeşilköy (green village) market is the perfect stop-off for those in search of a less frantic market experience. Abundant in greenery, the vast Wednesday weekly has a reputation for high-quality products (including excellent fake silk scarves) and even provides toilet facilities. Two thousand stalls (organised into designated areas), vibrant floral displays and scattered tea cafes combine to create something unheard of in Turkey – a relaxing market browse. Gems include makeup from Mac to Maybelline, available at up to 50% discount, and the best fake Louis Vuitton in the city.
      Yeşilköy Halkali Caddesi, Bakirköy, 34149

      Sahaflar

      One thing you will not find in abundance at Turkish street markets is books. But the old booksellers’ market in Beyazit is a haven of old volumes. A leafy city oasis located between the Grand Bazaar and Beyazit Mosque, under a canopy of chestnut and acacia trees, the 15th-century market and its associated tea garden was a hotspot for prominent poets, academics and authors in the mid-20th century, and now hosts 23 bookstores. Stationery, calligraphy materials, textbooks, novels and foreign and holy literature, Sahaflar has it all. Huddles of elderly, tobacco-chewing gents peddle watches, badges, old coins and trinkets, , although it’s never entirely clear who is working and who is just hanging around for a chat.
      Çadircilar Caddesi, Beyazit Mahallesi, 34126

      Beşiktaş

      A district of Istanbul best known for its black-and-white clad football team and fanatical supporters, Beşiktaş hosts a weekly Saturday bazaar that is anything but two-tone. Refreshingly lacking in tourist tat, this multi-storey car park turned two-storey treasure trove is fronted by an extravaganza of fresh foods – pyramids of rosy tomatoes and mountains of cucumbers – winding a path to the second floor, where you’ll find heaped factory seconds, dubiously patterned underwear sold by even more dubious vendors, and unusual jewels at irresistible prices. Look out for dazzling knuckleduster rings and every manner of tasselled, multicoloured bohemian headgear. A small makeshift cafe offers some welcome respite out the back – recuperate and return.
      Nüzhetiye Caddesi, Beşiktaş

      Bakirköy

      Attracting a mixture of locals and tourists alike, this vast Saturday fixture – a white mass stretching up the Marmara coast – pulls in the bargain-hunters with its range and quality of wares, flogged by international sellers from the Turkic-speaking nations and beyond. Designer shoes, quirky costume jewellery, unusual homeware, pyramids of exquisite organic produce… seek and you shall find. Among the chaos, women with beet-red faces, dressed in starchy white attire, roll dough with disconcerting vigour, slapping it on to sizzling pans with goat’s cheese and parsley to produce mouth-watering traditional Gözleme. The market rises and sets with the sun.
      Osmaniye Mahellesi, 34144 Istanbul Province (beside the Metro station)

      Kadiköy

      The novelty of being able to say “Just popping over to Asia” is not the only reason to cross to the “other side” of Istanbul. A 25-minute boat journey from the piers at Beşiktaş, Kabataş and Eminönü, this down-and-out haggling pit for those seeking the perfect peach or ultimate bed sheet is located in Hasanpaşa, a 10-minute walk from the ferry terminal. Traditionally a Tuesday fixture, the authentic trading hub (with not an inch of vertical space left yawning) is now also open on Fridays, but only to sell clothing. Beware “Abercrombie and Twitch”.
      Hasanpaşa Mahellesi, 34722 Kadiköy

      Tarlabaşi

      A short stroll from the bright lights of Taksim’s Istiklal Street, the hard-knock residential area of Tarlabaşi – an area associated with unemployment, crime and prostitution – is not the first destination that comes to mind when directing earnest travellers. Yet surprisingly, the rough-and-readyTarlabaşi Sunday food market – a rabbit warren of dusty, uneven streets – boasts a loyal following from all corners of Istanbul society, from penny-pinching Erasmus students to muttering old villagers craving a taste of home. Stall-holders arrive in laden trucks at the crack of dawn, to unload oozing figs with the texture of honey, dazzling fruits, glowing jams of rosehip, apricot and raspberry, and pickled… everything. Economical street shopping at its most authentic.
      Sakiz Ağaci Sokak, Beyoğlu Mahellesi

      Grand Bazaar

      Constructed in 1461, the Grand Bazaar, boasting 5,000 shops, is one of the largest covered markets in the world. Once a vibrant hub of international and local trade, recent decades have seen this labyrinth of glittering delights win the hearts, minds and wallets of wide-eyed tourists in search of the ultimate oriental shopping experience. With beckoning sellers peddling exquisite textiles, pottery, spices, jewellery, lanterns and souvenirs, bartering is an absolute must. However, resist the urge to entertain small boys wielding spinning tops on strings, who will address you as “mother”, regardless of age – and, occasionally, gender. At the end of the day, if it gets a bit too bizarre, 22 historical gateways offer ample escape routes.
      The Bazaar is closed Sundays; Divanyolu Caddesi 42, Sultanahmet, 34010

      • All markets open at dawn and close at dusk, unless otherwise stated