Tag: Grand Bazaar

  • Please Be a Little More Quiet When Shouting at Your Customers

    Please Be a Little More Quiet When Shouting at Your Customers

    In Istanbul’s Rowdy Bazaars, Police Say ‘Shhh’ and Some Whisper, Is the City Losing Its Soul?

    Turkish bazaars are a noisy place, with vendors straining to out shout, and out sell each other. But new laws are making vendors turn down the volume, and leave any crude references out of their sales pitches.

    ISTANBUL — “Tomatoes! Get your tomaaaatoes!” Spend your money here, because you’re not going to take it to the afterlife,” yells Hakan Gursu, a 23-year old vegetable seller in one of this city’s many historic, cacophonous bazaars. “Shouting is the joy of the bazaar,” he adds.

    Turkey’s shout police might disagree with that.

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    Getty ImagesPeople stroll past colorfull merchandise inside the Grand Bazaar in April 2009 in Istanbul, Turkey.

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    Joe Parkinson / The Wall Street JournalIzzettin Ozel, a 42-year-old trader who was fined for shouting too loud.

    For centuries, traders in Turkey’s covered-market bazaars have been perfecting their pitch—famously hollering, singing or otherwise trumpeting their wares. But now an obscure provision of a new law is seeking to turn down the volume.

    Since January, the wardens who patrol Istanbul’s 350 or so street markets, including the storied Grand Bazaar, have had a new mandate: Silence traders who get too loud or too rude.

    Stall owners face fines up to 500 Turkish liras ($280) if they “disturb the environment” or perform “verbal or genuine abuse” against shoppers. Serial bellowers can be evicted from their stalls. In Fatih market, where traders have been haggling since the 14th century, one warden said he had issued penalty notices to more than 100 traders in the past six weeks.

    Izzettin Ozel, a 42-year-old self-confessed shouter who has hawked fruit and vegetables here in Fatih market for two decades, discovered his sales pitch was too loud to be legal only when a fine for 169 liras arrived in the mail last month.

    “You can’t stop shouting at the bazaar. There’s no meaning to just standing here quietly,” he says, surrounded by kiwi fruit and bananas. “Selling is more fun when you shout, plus the sales are higher.”

    Some traders are hiring young lookouts to prowl the bazaar and warn stall owners if wardens are lurking. Others, hoping to dodge penalties but still keen to attract shoppers’ attention, have replaced shouting with elaborately trilled whistling.

    And plenty simply ignore the rules. One Sunday this month, vegetable sellers at Tarlabasi market in Istanbul’s Beyoglu district sang an ode to their fresh peppers: “Take iiit, don’t regret iiit.” Others loudly implored women to buy “Turkey’s best ‘twins’ hats,’” using a slang term for brassieres.

    As stall owners shout in defiance and trill their way through loopholes, Turkey’s governing Justice and Development Party has proposed more rules. New measures demand that stall owners “pay attention to the cleanliness of their hands and faces” and sign forms declaring they aren’t carrying contagious diseases. These proposals are expected to pass into law later this year.

    Municipal officials say the pursuit of quietude and cleanliness in the bazaar is part of a European Union-inspired effort to bring more order to street markets across Turkey. The mayor of Fatih municipality, which houses the city’s largest street market—where some 5,000 stalls jostle for attention—insists shoppers want a bazaar free from yells and expletives.

    “We understand the importance of shouting in the bazaar, but it shouldn’t be too disturbing; we have to work out a compromise,” says Mustafa Demir, in his office on the European side of Istanbul. “We don’t plan to be too tough,” he says.

    Some shoppers say that, in recent years, the shouts have become more uncouth, with an increase in swearing and sexual innuendo. Women have reported being harassed by sellers calling out suggestive rhymes, for instance, as they weigh whether to buy bananas or peaches.

    Traders concede that the more vociferous among them sometimes shout loudly or suggestively. Still, official calls for restraint have fallen on deaf ears among many stall-keepers, who argue that the restrictions represent the latest in a series of attacks on their livelihood.

    [TURKSHOUT]Fatih police patch

    “A few of my friends don’t come here anymore because they are worried about getting fined,” says Bulent Atalay, whose neighboring stallholder left his space after being fined for calling out to a passerby. “The government wants our markets to close, but they won’t succeed,” he says.

    If Turkey’s bazaars are under attack, perhaps it is by shopping malls as much as anything. Istanbul is brimming with malls, and they are taking a bite out of business at the traditional bazaars. By the end of next year, there will be an estimated 275 square meters of mall space to lease for every 1,000 Istanbul inhabitants, or 15% more than the EU average, according to real-estate investment firm Jones Lang LaSalle.

    Still, the shopping-mall culture hasn’t killed the bazaars, which still throng with bargain hunters. Nor have the new noise rules managed to silence traders’ shouts, which still reverberate across the city, proclaiming the virtues of tea cups or tomatoes, eggs or underwear.

    Shoppers seem to be split on whether less shouting would be good or bad. Esra Kutag, who says she often gets hassled by overzealous stall owners when visiting the bazaar every two weeks with her mother, says she welcomes the noise regulations.

    OB SY303 0513ba D 20120513220342“You know, the shouting is sometimes just too much. They shout ‘come! come!’ after you, even if you don’t want to buy,” she says. “Its uncomfortable; they kind of stick to you.”

    Then there are those who are firmly allied with the noisemakers. Suppressing the yelling and song steals what Murat Ulgen, who was shopping for tomatoes one day recently, describes as “the soul of Istanbul.”

    “Sure, we can go to supermarkets, but it’s more expensive and everywhere it’s the same, he says. “Yeah we’re getting richer, but we don’t have to forget where we came from.”

    —Ayla Albayrak contributed to this article.

  • Four ways to discover Istanbul

    Four ways to discover Istanbul

    The Ayasofya is perhaps the greatest vestige of the Byzantine era. The structure – which measures higher than the Statue of Liberty – has seen countless wars and the rise and fall of several Empires over the course of its 2,000-year history. (Creative Commons)

    Straddling two continents at the gateway to the Middle East, Istanbul has been one of the world’s cosmopolitan crossroads for centuries.

    This Turkish metropolis, the last capital of the Ottoman Empire, boasts of medieval towers that occupy the cityscape in Istanbul’s Old Town, and modern skyscrapers dominate the skyline on the European side.

    Here’s a guide to Istanbul’s finest draws.

    Ayasofya

    The Ayasofya is perhaps the greatest vestige of the Byzantine era. It was constructed by Emperor Justinian and once stood as the largest Christian cathedral in the world until it was converted into a mosque by the Ottomans. This structure – which measures higher than the Statue of Liberty – has seen countless wars and the rise and fall of several Empires over the course of its 2,000-year history. Today, tourists flock to the Ayasofya to marvel at its architecture and the paintings and mosaics within it.

    Topkapi Palace

    For almost 400 years, as the Ottomans ruled over Istanbul, Topkapi Palace was home to the sultans and governments of the empire. Sitting atop one of the city’s seven hills, this structure peers over the historic peninsula and out to the seas beyond.

    The palace itself exudes exotic opulence from the outset with its tranquil first courtyard that leads to the magnificent Bab-üs Selam (Gate of Salutation). Throughout the rest of the grand complex, visitors will discover scenic courtyards, kitchens, gardens, and apartments, as well as the residences of the Ottoman rulers and governments. Navigating the entire palace can be a lengthy undertaking, but be sure to stop by the Holy Relics room, which holds many of the treasures amassed during a bygone era.

    The Bosphorus

    The iconic Bosphorus strait bisects the city of Istanbul, creating the boundary between Europe and Asia. Though several bridges traverse the divide, in recent years, the most fashionable way to negotiate the straits is by boat. A cruise up the Bosphorus will take you past some of the city’s most beautiful sites, like the grand Rumeli Fortress and colorful 18th century palaces strewn along the banks. While you may consider skipping some of the more touristy stops, a trip to the Sadberk Hanim Museum to view its impressive collection of Ottoman artifacts is a must for any history enthusiast.

    Grand Bazaar

    It’s wise to prepare yourself for a trip to the grand bazaar, as the sights, sounds and aromas emanating from this vast weaving network of streets and stalls can sometimes overwhelm the senses. The collection of stalls, restaurants, mosques, tea houses and fountains is said to be among the largest concentrations of stores under one roof in the world. At the center of this massive complex are the Inner Bedesten and the Sandal Bedesten, two large covered markets containing a wealth of vendors and eateries. Just outside the Western Gate lies the Sahaflar Carsisi, an old book bazaar selling new and antique texts in a variety of languages.

    via Four ways to discover Istanbul | Fox News.

  • Market to Pantry #26: Spice Market and Grand Bazaar, Istanbul, Turkey

    Market to Pantry #26: Spice Market and Grand Bazaar, Istanbul, Turkey

    From Nathan, in Seattle:

    In November 2009 I visited Turkey on a scouting trip for a guided tour of Biblical sites. I was impressed with the beauty, the people, and not least of all the food. We had a couple of days at the end of the trip to visit Istanbul and it blew my mind. There were a few highlights, including the Basillica Cistern and the Hagia Sophia, but the Grand Bazaar and Spice Market proved to be the kind of places where I wish I’d had much more time to explore.

    If I were to quickly describe both markets I’d say that the Grand Bazaar (in the top photo) was slightly more “touristy”, but also much larger and with a wider range of things to purchase. The sheer scope of that market was daunting. I remember standing at one crossroads; I could look in all four directions and see literally no end to the rows of shops. It makes Pike Place Market here in Seattle look like a 7-11.

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    The Spice Market was a little smaller, though still quite large, and it had more of a food focus. My impression was that it was where more of the locals did their shopping. In such a competitive environment the merchants are eager to be friendly, serve you free tea, and strike a deal.

    Our guide had a particular favorite spot (which undoubtedly gave him kickbacks) and the actual process of shopping for the spices was quite fun. My wife gave me a list of some specifics she wanted me to bring home, which I did, but also added a few others based on what I tasted and liked. I can’t remember the exact prices of each, but wild saffron from the mountains of Turkey, for example, was maybe a tenth of the price of something similar in the States…IF you were able to find it here.

    I made my selections and the merchants put them all in vacuum-sealed bags. I also purchased some dried fruits and nuts for the long flight home, which turned out to be an inspired and delicious decision. Later I realized the sheer volume of what I had purchased and considered the complexity of getting this through customs. To my relief the people at customs in both Turkey and the U.S. didn’t even raise an eyebrow at the spice haul, and I made it home with no issues.

    In the nearly two years since then we’ve run through most of what I brought back. With the delicious range of concoctions my wife has made in that time using the spices, it’s starting to feel like another trip to Istanbul might be in order soon — this time with a bigger suitcase.

    via Market to Pantry #26: Spice Market and Grand Bazaar, Istanbul, Turkey – The Perfect Pantry®.

  • Short Breaks In Istanbul

    Short Breaks In Istanbul

    Top five things to do in the city where east and west collide

    Short Breaks In Istanbul

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    FOR a city break that transports you to another time as well as another place, it has to be Istanbul. As the centre of two ancient empires, the Ottoman and Byzantine, it is rich in awe-inspiring historical sites.

    For the adventurous traveller, it’s an exotic, otherworldly place packed with delights: wander the labyrinth of bazaars, relax in a traditional hamam, and experience a ‘hookah’ water-pipe café. But don’t expect a city stuck in the past. Modern day Istanbul is also home to chic cocktail bars, skyscrapers and a forward-looking cultural scene led by its younger generation.

    Top Five Things to Do in Istanbul

    The Sultanahmet Blue Mosque

    Gaze at the cascading domes and six minarets of this magnificent place of worship. Decorated in turquoise mosaics, and dominating the skyline of Istanbul, it’s known as one of the most beautiful mosques in the world.

    The Hippodrome

    Head to Sultanahmet Square to find the ancient site of the Hippodrome of Constantinople where chariots once raced in front of cheering crowds. Nowadays, the race track is indicated with paving and the surviving monuments are set within a landscaped garden.

    Topkapi Palace

    Marvel at the grandeur of this Ottoman palace with its courtyards, gardens, and sacred relics including Moses’ staff and Muhammad’s sword. Spend a full day there if you can, taking in the Harem, the views over the Bosphorus, and the glittering riches of the Imperial Treasury.

    St Sophia

    Discover why this domed basilica is often referred to as the Eighth Wonder of the World. Once a church, and then a mosque, it’s now a well-presented museum. Its towering domes, minarets, frescoes and mosaics are one of the city’s most impressive sights.

    Grand Bazaar

    Brave the enthusiastic traders at this sprawling covered market spread across 58 streets. Jewellery, carpets, ceramics, and coloured lanterns are just some of the goods to be haggled over. Bargaining is obligatory – ask for prices at three or four different stalls before you buy.

    via Short Breaks In Istanbul | Abroad | Planet Confidential.

  • Grand Bazaar’s gold merchants turn to Bloomberg

    Grand Bazaar’s gold merchants turn to Bloomberg

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    Demand for gold has risen steadily over the last decade Photo: REX

    By Katherine Rushton

    Around 2.5m ounces of the substance change hands in its labyrinthine alleyways each year, amounting to $29bn (£18.6bn) of business and giving the Grand Bazaar a clear lead as Turkey’s biggest gold market.

    But that centuries-old ritual is starting to change. The economic downturn has fuelled trading of the ‘safe haven” metal to such an extent that Istanbul’s gold merchants have started to invest in expensive Bloomberg terminals in order to keep up with demand and step up the speed of transactions and gain access to the latest prices.

    Each subscription costs $20,000 and is more commonly associated with a trading floor, but allows gold sellers to keep track of volatile prices, and instantly trade gold and currency with buyers far beyond the 4,000 shops of the Grand Bazaar.

    “It’s a classic fusion of tradition and revolution,” said a Bloomberg spokesman.

    “The Grand Bazaar is a uniquely dynamic and fast-moving trading environment that is highly price-sensitive.”

    Demand for gold has risen steadily over the last decade, and continued its rally for most of last year as the eurozone crisis, economic stagnation in the West and the inflationary effects of quantitative easing drove demand for the metal.

    It ended the year above $1,570 an ounce, well above its $1,420 price tag at the close of 2010, notwithstanding a sharp slump in early December.

    Prices were around $300 a decade ago and despite 11 consecutive years of gains, many experts predict the metal will continue to rise this year.

    Analysts at UBS, the Swiss bank, expect gold to hit $2,050 this year, although that view is seen as bullish by some, given the economic turmoil in Europe and contagion elsewhere.

    BNP Paribas has forecast an average price for 2012 of $1,775 an ounce, rising to $2,150 in 2013.

    via Grand Bazaar’s gold merchants turn to Bloomberg – Telegraph.

  • Video: Music marks 550 years of Istanbul’s Grand Bazaar

    Video: Music marks 550 years of Istanbul’s Grand Bazaar

    It has been dubbed the world’s oldest shopping mall.

    And to mark 550 years of the Grand Bazaar in Istanbul, a top Turkish musician has been doing what he does best, in an anniversary concert.

    “As a son of this land, together with the Turkish classical military band and representatives of three big religions, we will play and perform a Jewish psalm, then a Christian psalm and a Muslim psalm,” said classical pianist and composer Tuluyhan Ugurlu in a break from rehearsals.

    Euronews