Tag: Bosphorus

The Bosphorous: Tale of two continents told at sea

By Jim Eagles

Jim Eagles cruises down the watery divide between Europe and Asia.

Ortakoy Mosque, built by an Ottoman sultan, is a vision of wealth and power. Photo / Jim Eagles

In less than a minute I had passed from Europe to Asia. There was no need for my passport to be stamped and no customs inspection … though the driver did have to pay a small toll.

To move from one continent to another we simply drove across the elegant 1075m-long Bosphorous Bridge while still remaining in Turkey.

The land on either side of the narrow strip of water dividing Europe from Asia, and linking the Mediterranean with the Black Sea – comprising the Dardanelles, the Sea of Marmara and the Bosphorous – has throughout history been one of the most strategically important, and therefore highly prized, points in Eurasia.

Mehmet Kayici, the archaeologist who guided me around Istanbul, said historians knew of no fewer than 48 attempts to conquer the area. One of the earliest saw Darius the Great, King of Persia, build a bridge of ships to take his forces across the narrow Mediterranean entrance, with the exploit commemorated in the name Dardanelles.

And a more recent attempt involved Anzac troops who, among others, landed at Gallipoli in an ill-fated attempt to allow Royal Navy ships to pass through those straits to the Black Sea.

Given all that history, it is hardly surprising that the shores of the Bosphorous, in particular, are lined with beautiful and historic buildings – mosques and palaces, watchtowers and castles – as well as the homes of the modern elite.

You can explore that panorama by land or by sea, but preferably by both, which is what I did.

Istanbul Seabuses’ Bosphorous Cruises are obviously a popular way to see the sights, because the ferry I went on was packed and I had to keep my elbows at the ready to preserve my viewing point on the top deck.

The cruises start from Old Istanbul, a peninsula which has housed human settlements for at least 9000 years and has served as capital of the Roman, Byzantine, Latin and Ottoman Empires.

The many ancient monuments to see there include the massive shape of St Sophia, the Sultan Ahmed Mosque, the old Roman city walls and the Tokapi Palace.

A little way down the coast the elegant shape of the Galata Tower, built by Genoese traders in 1348, rises above the amiable clutter of city buildings.

Then we cruise past the 600m frontage of the Dolmabahce Palace, summer residence of the sultans, built in the 1850s when the Ottoman rulers had begun to find the Tokapi Palace in the middle of the city too restrictive.

It’s an imposing sight, a suitable statement of wealth and power, but rather more beautiful is the nearby Ortakoy Mosque, built around the same time but these days sharing the seafront with the supports of the Bosphorous Bridge.

On the opposite (Asian) side of the Bosphorous I saw more impressive Ottoman buildings, including the white marble Beylerbeyi Palace and the smaller Goksu Pavilion, which sounded as though it was a sort of royal bach.

But our cruise continued mainly down the European side which was lined with wooden Ottoman houses. These charming homes were originally built by members of the extended royal family, ambassadors and courtiers, however today, according to Mehmet, they “are owned by rich people – the cheapest price would be US$5 million ($6 million) – who commute to the city in their speedboats”.

Further down the Bosphorous we came to the second of the two spans linking Asia and Europe – the Fatih Sultan Mehmet Bridge and beside it, rising up the hillside, the ominous bulk of the Rumelian Castle, built by the Ottomans in 1451 while they were laying seige to Constantinople.

As the cruise continued I saw at the end of the Bosphorous, sitting astride a tall hill, the powerful shape of the Yoros Castle, built in Roman times to guard the entrance to the Black Sea.

But before we got there, I left the ferry to continue my exploration by car.

This allowed me to check out the extraordinary luxury of the Beylerbeyi Palace which seemed, from the commentary offered by the official guide, to have been used by the royal family for bathing excursions from their larger summer palace.

It was also a chance to visit the viewing point of Chamlica, from which there are fabulous views across the water to Europe, and to enjoy the sight of dozens of families having picnics under the trees.

However, the best thing about circling the Bosphorous by car was the fact that it allowed me to cross the Mehmet Bridge, from Europe to Asia, and the Bosphorous bridge, from Asia back to Europe, all in a matter of minutes.

CHECKLIST

Getting there: Singapore Airlines operates 12 times a week between Auckland and Singapore and then on to 62 destinations in 34 countries, including Istanbul.

Getting around: World Expeditions’ Best of Turkey includes Cappadocia, famous for the underground cities and extraordinary rock formations, Konya, known for its whirling dervishes, and the historical cities of Ephesus, Troy and Gallipoli as well as Istanbul. Call 0800 350 354.

Jim Eagles visited Istanbul with help from Singapore Airlines and World Expeditions.

via The Bosphorous: Tale of two continents told at sea – Travel – NZ Herald News.

May 18, 2012
Four ways to discover Istanbul

The Ayasofya is perhaps the greatest vestige of the Byzantine era. The structure – which measures higher than the Statue of Liberty – has seen countless wars and the rise and fall of several Empires over the course of its 2,000-year history. (Creative Commons)

Straddling two continents at the gateway to the Middle East, Istanbul has been one of the world’s cosmopolitan crossroads for centuries.

This Turkish metropolis, the last capital of the Ottoman Empire, boasts of medieval towers that occupy the cityscape in Istanbul’s Old Town, and modern skyscrapers dominate the skyline on the European side.

Here’s a guide to Istanbul’s finest draws.

Ayasofya

The Ayasofya is perhaps the greatest vestige of the Byzantine era. It was constructed by Emperor Justinian and once stood as the largest Christian cathedral in the world until it was converted into a mosque by the Ottomans. This structure – which measures higher than the Statue of Liberty – has seen countless wars and the rise and fall of several Empires over the course of its 2,000-year history. Today, tourists flock to the Ayasofya to marvel at its architecture and the paintings and mosaics within it.

Topkapi Palace

For almost 400 years, as the Ottomans ruled over Istanbul, Topkapi Palace was home to the sultans and governments of the empire. Sitting atop one of the city’s seven hills, this structure peers over the historic peninsula and out to the seas beyond.

The palace itself exudes exotic opulence from the outset with its tranquil first courtyard that leads to the magnificent Bab-üs Selam (Gate of Salutation). Throughout the rest of the grand complex, visitors will discover scenic courtyards, kitchens, gardens, and apartments, as well as the residences of the Ottoman rulers and governments. Navigating the entire palace can be a lengthy undertaking, but be sure to stop by the Holy Relics room, which holds many of the treasures amassed during a bygone era.

The Bosphorus

The iconic Bosphorus strait bisects the city of Istanbul, creating the boundary between Europe and Asia. Though several bridges traverse the divide, in recent years, the most fashionable way to negotiate the straits is by boat. A cruise up the Bosphorus will take you past some of the city’s most beautiful sites, like the grand Rumeli Fortress and colorful 18th century palaces strewn along the banks. While you may consider skipping some of the more touristy stops, a trip to the Sadberk Hanim Museum to view its impressive collection of Ottoman artifacts is a must for any history enthusiast.

Grand Bazaar

It’s wise to prepare yourself for a trip to the grand bazaar, as the sights, sounds and aromas emanating from this vast weaving network of streets and stalls can sometimes overwhelm the senses. The collection of stalls, restaurants, mosques, tea houses and fountains is said to be among the largest concentrations of stores under one roof in the world. At the center of this massive complex are the Inner Bedesten and the Sandal Bedesten, two large covered markets containing a wealth of vendors and eateries. Just outside the Western Gate lies the Sahaflar Carsisi, an old book bazaar selling new and antique texts in a variety of languages.

via Four ways to discover Istanbul | Fox News.

May 11, 2012
Escape up the Bosphorus

EASTERN PROMISE: The Bosphorus Bridge connects Europe with Asia in the ancient capital of Istanbul.

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We wait on the edge of Istanbul for the number 150 to Garipce. The bus, when it comes, is an old one like from my childhood. And it complains constantly as we lurch through the folding hills above the Bosphorus. Occasionally the land parts and we glimpse the mercurial strait of wind-tossed water below, dividing Europe and Asia and coursing between Istanbul and the Black Sea.

For many tourists a day-trip out of heady Istanbul means island-hopping the Princes’ Islands. Instead my wife and I are weaving up the European shore of the Bosphorus. Istanbulites drive up on weekends, unwinding and eating at villages that hug the water’s edge. We’ve come midweek to avoid the crowds. And by the looks of our fellow passengers – old men, mothers, all Turks – it’s an idyllic day-trip that remains off the tourist to-do list.

We drop out of the hills into tiny Garipce. Half-hidden in a sheltered Bosphorus cove, its name is Turkish for “strange”.

via Travel | Turkey Istanbul Bosphorus | Stuff.co.nz.

January 25, 2012
New legislation could lead to emission tests on Bosphorus vessels

New legislation could lead to emission tests on Bosphorus vessels

11 Jan 2012 – Environment

Sunset on the European side of the Bosphorus, Istanbul. Image: Seha Islam | Wikimedia Commons

Istanbul Development Agency passes legislation to inspect high polluting vessels navigating the Bosphorus

Heavy polluters could be subject to fines under new regulations

A legislation passed by the Istanbul Development Agency (İSTKA) yesterday could mean vessels in the Bosphorus being subject to emission inspections and fines for the use of highly pollutant fuels.

ISTKA will join forces with the Istanbul Technical University (ITU) to design a feasibility study to identify heavy polluters among strait traffic. Under the new legislation, suspect vessels will then be required to have their emissions measured by authorities, according to Turkey’s Today’s Zaman.

“We find this (project) essential and will be offering our support,” ISTKA Secretary-General, Abdulmecit Karatas, told Today’s Zaman on Monday.

“ISTKA currently plans to allocate TL 1 million to the project in the hopes of creating a functioning system for measuring maritime emissions and fining vessels deemed to be using “cheap and highly pollutant fuels,” he added.

The Bosphorus remains one of the most important shipping channels in the world and is journeyed by nearly 50,000 vessels each year.

However, the growing number of ships navigating the Bosphorus and its effect on the quality of Istanbul’s air is a matter of deep concern to both environmental campaigners and city officials.

Project coordinator and geology professor at the ITU, Tayfun Kindap, told Today’s Zaman that maritime emissions are a great threat to the inhabitants of Istanbul.

via New legislation could lead to emission tests on Bosphorus vessels.

January 12, 2012
Istanbul: Direct line to Turkey’s past

A walk along the ancient walls reveals the city’s convoluted history, says Tristan Rutherford

Tristan Rutherford

On the lower shores of the Golden Horn – the oozy inlet of the Bosphorus that divides European Istanbul from its touristy historic centre – I witnessed my favourite fiddle. The trick is known across the Mediterranean as the gold ring scam. You’ll be strolling along when a fellow walker stumbles over a gold signet ring, which he assumes must be yours. Handle it and your new friend will want a finder’s fee. Or a willowy accomplice might spring from a side street claiming it was hers all along, and only a crossed palm of silver will resolve her indignation.

Yet the tranquil upper reaches of the Golden Horn are a world away from such chicanery. Opposite the waterway’s Ayvansaray bus stop, the first of 96 raggedy-jaggedy towers marks the edge of ancient Constantinople. From here, five miles of crumbling city walls run down to the sea on Istanbul’s southern shore.

Built by the Byzantines to repel barbarian hordes, they were finished just in time to keep out Attila the Hun in 448AD. Passing markets, ancient mosques and finely frescoed churches, they offer a passage back to early Ottoman times, devoid of tourists and tricksters alike.

Many of Istanbul’s grandest monuments were given a kiss of life as the city basked in its Capital of Culture 2010 celebrations. Not these city walls. Mossy steps allowed me to clamber up to the top of the first tower for panoramas over this city of 13 million souls. My gaze swept across ancient mosques and modern stadia in the early morning sun, the mighty Bosphorus and the forests of Anatolia, the iconic Galata Tower skylined against the brand new Trump Towers.

For the next half-mile the footpath along the wall offered a historical helter-skelter through old Istanbul. First was a mausoleum of Arabian warrior Ahmed el Hudri, where chanting devotees bowed heads before a draped tomb. Other long-dead acolytes lie under the surrounding gardens. Turbans topped the tombstones of the ancient faithful. The path soon stumbled past a dainty little mosque designed by famed Ottoman architect Mimar Sinan. I paused at the yellow Egrikapy Panayia orthodox church, where I was the first visitor for weeks.

Further on, chickens were roosting in the fortifications. A father and son team were flogging fresh anchovies from an icy pushcart. Once-grand wooden villas crumbled into figgy gardens. An outdoor bird market rounded off the first mile mark near Hirami Ahmet Pasha Mosque, a converted Eastern Orthadox church from pre-Ottoman times. Old chaps in flat caps cupped pigeons and doves, however it was all puff and wind; the only bird trader making any money was the one selling packets of seed.

The city wall runs downhill from here to Edirnekapi – the Gate of Edirne – which once led to the Ottoman Empire’s European domains. The towers seemed taller and bulkier here, and with good reason. This topographical dip in Istanbul’s defences has been the focus of many a marauding horde. Bulgars and Kievian Rus battered the bastions in the first millennia, as did early Arabs – who nearly succeeded in taking Istanbul for Islam seven centuries before the Turks.

The top of one restored tower offered an awesome panorama over the defences, a Great Wall of Istanbul, panning into the distance. The scene would have rung true back in 1453 when the current Turkish tenants moved in to stay. In April of that year, Sultan Mehmet II arrived at the city walls with 100,000 soldiers, determined to flip the last vestiges of the Byzantine Empire into the Ottoman realm. But when Mehmet marched through the walls victorious, he promptly put a stop to any looting and paid tribute in the great Hagia Sophia cathedral. The Ottomans preserved almost all of classic Constantinople, including the 5th-century Chora Church next to the city walls. Now a museum, its frescos and gold mosaics retell biblical history in a spellbinding riot of colour.

Next door to the church, I stopped for lunch at Asitane Restaurant, a treat for historians of a culinary kind. Here owner Batur Durmay recreates long-lost Ottoman dishes. A highlight is slow-baked goose kebab with almond pilaf, a dish with history: it was previously served at one of Sultan Suleyman the Magnificent’s circumcision ceremonies back in 1539.

History was visible at every turn as the towers rolled down to the Sea of Marmara. I followed a group of students into a towering gatehouse filled with Greek inscriptions, remembering that it was once a portcullised murder hole for barbarian hordes.

The moat that ringed the city centuries ago was more visible in this section too. In more recent years, it has been developed into a fertile patch of smallholdings, timelessly picturesque at sunset against the walls.

It was into central Istanbul, a maelstrom of modernity, that that I now headed. Today the area is known as much for its rooftop bars as it is for the Grand Bazaar. For the walls, the end of the line is Yedikule, the city’s former Golden Gate. It was once used by victorious generals returning from a foreign “triumph” and was punched through in 1889 by the Orient Express. A local train still draws into the Yedikule platform and rattles for three miles along the Bosphorus to Sirkeci station, the terminus of European rail. En route, it runs parallel to another length of city walls… but that’s another story.

Travel essentials: Istanbul

Visiting there

* Chora Museum, Kariye Camii Sokak (choramuseum.com). Open Thu-Tue 9am-5pm; TL15 (£6).

Eating & drinking there

* Asitane, Kariye Camii Sokak (00 90 212 635 7997; asitanerestaurant.com).

More information

* Tristan Rutherford is the author of the “Istanbul à la Carte” map, published this month, and priced €8.90 (alacartemaps.com).

via Istanbul: Direct line to Turkey’s past – News & Advice – Travel – The Independent.

November 27, 2011
Turkey trains for Bosphoros tanker tragedy

Thomas Seibert

Sep 30, 2011

A Turkish Coast Guard helicopter flies over an oil tanker during a National marine pollution emergency response exercises in the Bosphorus yesterday. Osman Orsal / Reuters

A Turkish Coast Guard helicopter flies over an oil tanker during a National marine pollution emergency response exercises in the Bosphorus yesterday. Osman Orsal / Reuters

A Turkish Coast Guard helicopter flies over an oil tanker during a National marine pollution emergency response exercises in the Bosphorus yesterday. Osman Orsal / Reuters

ISTANBUL // A tanker filled with crude oil crashes into a passenger ferry on the Bosphorus in Istanbul.

Rescue units scramble to get travellers and crew members to safety, while other teams are deployed to fight a growing danger from a massive oil spill on a busy waterway in the middle of a metropolis of 15 million people.

That was the scenario for an emergency exercise staged in Istanbul yesterday.

It was designed to train rescue teams and raise awareness about the dangers of the dense traffic on a narrow strait that is used by 55,000 vessels every year.

Live television pictures showed fire-fighting boats spraying water and rescue teams in dinghies on the Bosphorus next to the tanker Avrasya and the passenger ferry Turgut Ozal.

“An accident will not announce itself it advance. We have to be ready,” Binali Yildirim, Turkey’s transport minister and the official in charge of the exercise, told the state television broadcaster TRT. “We have to keep our cool and know what to do and how.”

In a statement before the exercise, Mr Yildirim’s ministry called the Bosporus a waterway of strategic importance that played a key role in energy transport – but he added that it was “also one of the most dangerous waterways in the world”.

The script for the exercise, the first of its kind, said a rudder failure of the Avrasya would lead to a collision of the vessel with the Turgut Ozal in the waters next to the Maiden’s Tower, a small island at the mouth of the Bosphorus near the Sea of Marmara.

Rescue teams and several helicopters were activated to get survivors off the ships and out of the water, while other boats brought out 3.2 kilometres of floating oil barriers.

About 600 people were scheduled to be involved in the exercise that kept the Bosphorus, one of the busiest waterways in world trade, closed for several hours.

“Nowhere in the world is the risk of an accident as high as it is on the Bosphorus in Istanbul,” Mr Yildirim said this year after a meeting of several cabinet ministers called to discuss ways of preventing an oil spill like the one in the Gulf of Mexico in 2010.

“You have eight critical points with 90-degree bends on a total of 15 nautical miles [28km],” he added.

Turkey said that the Montreux Convention of 1936, a treaty regulating traffic on the Bosphorus and the Dardanelles that defines the straits as international waters, prevents authorities from making a pilot mandatory for ships passing the Bosphorus.

In 97 per cent of 141 accidents recorded on the Bosphorus during a five-year period, the ships involved did not have a pilot, according to the transport ministry.

Veysel Eroglu, the environment minister, said after the meeting with his cabinet colleagues that he was concerned something could go wrong during the passage of one of the nearly 10,000 tankers that use the Bosphorus every year.

“I have nightmares of a tanker accident on the Bosphorus,” Mr Eroglu said.

Presenting the plan for this week’s exercise in a statement, the transport ministry referred to a collision 32 years ago – one of the worst accidents to have happened on the Bosphorus in the recent past.

In November 1979, an oil tanker filled with almost 100,000 tonnes of crude from Libya that was on its way to the Romanian Black Sea coast collided with a Greek freighter near the point where yesterday’s exercise was held.

“In the accident, 51 people died and the tanker ran aground with its stern 200 metres from the shore,” the ministry said. “Later, it broke apart and burned for nearly a month.”

In 1979, about 2.7 million people lived in Istanbul, just a fifth of today’s population.

According to figures from the Turkish government, 143 million tonnes of dangerous goods, including crude oil, natural gas and chemicals, pass through Istanbul on the Bosphorus every year.

Recep Tayyip Erdogan, the Turkish prime minister, has proposed building a new canal west of Istanbul to ease traffic on the Bosphorus. The project, which Mr Erdogan called “important, crazy and wonderful” when he presented it in April, foresees a man-made waterway 50km long, 150m wide and 25m deep.

tseibert@thenational.ae

via Turkey trains for Bosphoros tanker tragedy – The National.

September 30, 2011