Tag: Bodrum

  • Americans Sailing to a Muslim Country

    Americans Sailing to a Muslim Country

    It has been said that cruising is the art of doing boat work in exotic locals and honestly that’s not far from the truth. Atticus 2 is in super good shape, but all boats are in constant need of routine maintenance. Salt water, fresh water, and UV rays are constantly doing everything they can to destroy seagoing boats and extreme motion means that any week link can and will be exposed at the worst possible moment. So now is the time to for us to get on top of our preventative maintenance and there are still a handful of improvements that we’re hoping to make as well.

    We decided to spend the winter at D-marin, Turgutreis in Turkey for several reasons. The winters here is mild, Turkey is renown for having skilled labor at reasonable prices, its outside of the Schengen region so we can recharge our Schengen Visas, but more than anything we’ve been told by several other sailors that Turkey is their favorite country in the Med. It’s such a unique place considered a transcontinental country, not quite a part of Europe, and not quite a part of Asia. And that’s exactly how the culture feels, it’s a blend of two extremely different places. Turkey is one of the most secular muslim majority countries in the world. It’s now home to two of the seven wonders of the ancient world. And for centuries, the Ottoman Empire was the preeminent power in the Mediterranean.

    So this week we’re going to get to know this fascinating place before we hunker down to start doing boat projects

  • 6.3-magnitude quake hits Aegean, Turkish citizen among two killed in Greece’s Kos

    6.3-magnitude quake hits Aegean, Turkish citizen among two killed in Greece’s Kos

    A magnitude-6.3 earthquake hit the Aegean Sea near the Turkish coast early on July 21, at least two people, including one Turkish citizen, were killed on the Greek island of Kos after the strong earthquake.

    Several people were also injured in the Aegean province of Muğla.

    Muğla Governor Esengül Civelek told Anadolu Agency initial reports indicated no casualties or structural damage.

    Turkey’s Kandilli Observatory and the Earthquake Research Institute stated that 10 centimeters of tsunami wave was observed in Bodrum in the aftermath of the quake.

    The quake measuring 6.3 hit at 1.31 a.m. local time at a depth of 7.8 kilometers (4.8 miles), according to the Disaster and Emergency Management Authority’s (AFAD) website.

    The region was hit by approximately 40 more aftershocks ranging in strength between magnitude-3.0 to 4.6, according to the AFAD.

    IN PHOTOS: Locals stay outside at night in Bodrum after quake

    Civelek said some residents were spending the night outside because of panic and fear.

    “We have reached all our district as of this moment,” she said.

    There was no structural damage but a small number of residents were slightly injured in the panic, she said.

    “There is no electricity cut, but there have been some electric faults due  to the earthquake. We are working on it,” she added.

    Muğla Mayor Osman Gürün said authorities took immediate measures against grass fires due to breakage of electricity transmission lines.

    Datça District Mayor Gürsel Ucar said that two houses’ walls were damaged in Reşadiye Neighborhood. At least 15 people were taken to hospitals after the earthquake, he said.

    Meanwhile, rising sea level in Bodrum district after the earthquake caused damage to the several boats and vehicles.

    Boat owner Yekta Ongun told he was with his family in a boat during the earthquake.

    “Everything happened in a short time. There is major damage to our boat; it was sunk. Rapid changes in the sea level are ongoing,” he said.

    A holidaymaker Burak Buz said his car moved about 100 meters (330 feet) and was damaged.

    A ferry was also sent from Bodrum to Kos to evacuate around 60 Turkish citizens on the island.

    Last month, the region was rattled by a magnitude-6.2- quake that struck coastal Izmir’s Karaburun district.

    July/21/2017

  • Turkey: exploring the ancient Meander river delta

    Turkey: exploring the ancient Meander river delta

    During a month-long canoe trip down the length of Turkey’s Meander river, Jeremy Seal rests in a tiny town big on history and hospitality that becomes one of the highlights of his journey

    • Jeremy Seal
    • The Guardian
    Jeremy Seal on the last stretch of the Meander

    Jeremy Seal on the last stretch of the Meander before it empties into the Aegean.

    I left the river where it nearly met the lake, and dragged my filthy and battered canoe across the single field that lay between them. For a month, I had been travelling the Meander river, as it was known in classical times – it’s now called the Büyük Menderes. I’d followed every last bend of it, from its source in the uplands of western Turkey to where it empties into the Aegean.

    The expedition had paid off in history and hospitality – two of Turkey’s strengths. All along this fabled valley – scattered with ruins of King Xerxes, Alexander the Great, campaigning Byzantine emperors, Crusader kings and raiding Turkish sultans – locals who were kindly if bemused had unfailingly put me up, fed me and helped me on my way.

    The problem was that the solo travelling had been as tough on me as on my canoe – what with the nights spent in welcoming but basic village houses, forestry huts and pumping stations, the original winding river had done me in.

    On my approach to the coast, where the Meander delta meets the Aegean between the resort towns of Didim and Kusadası, I had begun to doubt that I could stay the course. A well-earned break was called for, which explains the short portage I was now making towards Bafa lake, a protected natural park, and to the haven of Kapıkırı, on its eastern edge.

    Travellers unfamiliar with Turkey tend to the binary assumption that they must expect either concrete resort sprawls – think precisely of Didim or Kusadası – or a mountainous interior associated with Islamic traditionalism and poor plumbing. The truth is that a gloriously rewarding course can often be steered between the two – and it leads straight to places like Kapıkırı.

    Turkey mapI paddled down the pristine lake within its hem of hazed mountains, passing island heronries topped by the crumbling crenellations of fortified Byzantine monasteries, and ran my canoe ashore on Seychellois-white sands of powdered shell.

    This glorious beach could have been a shoe-in for sun loungers and parasols, but it lay deserted except for a shawled villager who had been collecting the driftwood now stacked on the back of her donkey. I shoved my canoe in among the faded fishing caïques with their high prows and looked beyond the beach to where a magnificent set of city walls rises from olive groves around the ancient harbour city of Heraclea. Complete with parapets, posterns and ramparts, they date from the third century BC. I walked among ruined colonnades and temples, tottering arches and ashlar tiers, and scattered blocks of carved frieze to find myself among the makeshift stone cottages and tended kitchen gardens of the site’s present-day occupants.

    Heraclea has been left to Kapıkırı’s farmers and fishing folk to picturesque effect. In most of Turkey’s ancient cities a museum service in thrall to the tidying tendency has cleared away rustic communities.

    The place exists on its own terms, without boutiques, bars or interpretive centre, where subtler pleasures include clocking the casual ways in which ancient Heraclea’s stones have been customised by present-day Kapıkırı – as garden tables and as tether posts for donkeys. Or even as a boot jack: I watched an arthritic elderly man ease off a worn leather heel against a column drum at his front door, finding a functional use for the stone’s fluted corner which its ancient carver probably never anticipated.

    By the agora, the main square of the village from ancient times to now, and the site of the football pitch, is the Agora Pansiyon. As with the village’s other pansiyons, this family-run guesthouse has for years been attracting refugees from the busy resorts – history buffs, birders, botanists and hikers.

    Kapıkırı Village, Lake Bafa TurkeyKapıkırı village, on Bafa lake. Photograph: AlamyIn its shaded grounds, I found a hammock-slung terrace and a cushion-strewn kösk, a traditional raised lounging platform. The timbered interiors were hung with binoculars and stacked with books about the region. My immaculately clean room was light, spacious and television-free. This cultured country lodge also boasted an excellent and generous kitchen, as I discovered over a dinner of salted eel, lentil soup, lake-caught bass, and a potato and dill salad soused in the family’s own olive oil.

    Orhan Serçin, owner of the pansiyon, and a former mayor of Kapıkırı, advised me that my first priority must be the mountain, the myth-haunted Latmos (Besparmak to the Turks), which rises directly behind the village.

    “It’s why most visitors come,” he said. “The landscapes are like nowhere else, and the history is extraordinary – prehistoric, classical and medieval all at once, with plenty of myth for good measure.”

    I saw what he meant the following morning when Mithat, his son, guided me up through orchid meadows and olive groves, past gates fashioned from old sticks, to house-high boulders, which the elements had hollowed out over the ages.

    Within these surreal caverns Mithat showed me ochre and red cave paintings said to be some 8,000 years old. At the ruined monastery of Yediler we picnicked on cheese, olives and enormous tomatoes, close to a hermit’s cave, its walls frescoed with a vivid crucifixion scene.

    We completed this outstanding hike by descending to the lake-side temple dedicated to Endymion, the mythical shepherd whom the moon goddess serially seduced on the heights of this holy mountain.

    One afternoon I returned to the lake and paid a fisherman to ferry me to the deserted beach at Ikizada, where I swam in the lightly brackish waters (the lake was a gulf in the Aegean until the sea passage silted up) and dozed in the shade of oleanders before pottering among the Byzantine ruins on the headland.

    Byzantine ruins in Bafa lakeByzantine ruins in Bafa lake. Photograph: AlamyAnother day I found my way up the verbena-scented kral yolu or royal way, a mountain road as old at least as the city walls and paved with super-sized cobbles, an extraordinary engineering feat. The road had once carried the armies of Alexander’s generals, and the villagers now use it for bringing in the olive harvest. It was a particular pleasure to wander the lanes of the village where farmsteads and smallholdings abutted the old walls and cattle grazed the tumbled tiers of the overgrown theatre.

    In the afternoons I dozed in the hammock to the clack of the rummy players from the village tea house. I fell asleep each night to lowing and barking, and woke to the call of the village muezzin, and amid the history and the hospitality, I stayed until I had recovered to the point of facing my canoe again.

    On my final morning Ozgun, Orhan’s wife, served an epic home-produced breakfast of bread, yoghurt, eggs and a bewildering variety of jams. Heavily ballasted, I returned to the river and continued downstream to another historic highlight – the ancient port of Miletus, once the greatest city in the Greek world – and from there to my journey’s end at the Aegean. After my stay at Kapıkırı, one of the most evocative spots in Turkey, I was ready for the final leg of my long meandering.

    • Meander; East to West Along a Turkish River, by Jeremy Seal (Chatto, £16.99). To buy a copy for £13.59 with free UK p&p go toguardianbookshop.co.uk. Jeremy will be talking about his trip at theKings Place Travel Festival on 23 June. Other speakers during the two-day festival, including Michael Palin, Sara Wheeler, Barbara Nadel and chef Atul Kochhar, will explore the world from England’s bramble-lined pathways to the vast, empty expanse of Antarctica through food, music, crime-writing and their own journeys

    Way to go

    Getting there
    EasyJet (easyjet.co.uk) flies to Bodrum from various UK airports. Pegasus Airlines (flypgs.com) flies to Bodrum from Gatwick and Stansted

    Where to stay
    Agora Pansiyon (+90 252 543 5445, agorapansiyon.com) has doubles from €100 per night, half board. Kaya Pansiyon and Restaurant (+90 252 543 5380, bafalake.net) has doubles from around £29 a night half-board

    Jeremy Seal on the last stretch of the Meander

     

    https://www.theguardian.com/travel/2013/mar/22/turkey-canoeing-meander-river-buyuk-menderes

  • Expanding Turkey’s menu

    Expanding Turkey’s menu

    Expanding Turkey’s menu

    MARKET day arrives in Yalikavak, a small Turkish town on the Bodrum Peninsula, and my sister Caroline and I are in deep discussions over an acceptable price for a beautiful scarlet handbag.

    By: Annabelle Thorpe

    Browsing in the bazaar at Yalikavak
    Browsing in the bazaar at Yalikavak

    There are dozens of bags on the stall in front of us, the air is thick with spices and everywhere women are bustling past with carrier bags filled with fresh vegetables, pots and pans and slippers, while tourists coo over the amazingly cheap cashmere wraps and pretty ceramics.

    We fix on a price and retire, slightly exhausted, to a ramshackle cafe at the side of the market to revive ourselves with gozleme, delicious Turkish pancakes stuffed with feta cheese and herbs, and sip Turkish tea from tulip-shaped glasses.

    Around us sit local men in knitted caps and smart grey trousers playing backgammon and sipping tea, habits formed over decades and little changed by the recent influx of tourists.

    Yalikavak is just one of a clutch of unspoilt village resorts that cling to the coastline of the Bodrum Peninsula.

    That they have remained unspoilt is largely due to the lack of beaches, and the fact that many of the tourists who come here are holidaying city dwellers from Izmir and Istanbul.

    Yalikavak and its neighbouring resorts of Torba and Golturkbuku have slim strips of sand but there is little to rival the beautiful beaches of Oludeniz and Iztuzu. Instead most visitors from the UK stay in Bodrum or Gumbet, around 20 minutes away by taxi but a world away in atmosphere and size.

    The influx of Turkish tourists has seen a crop of stylish boutiques spring up in Yalikavak and the other villages.

    Our base for the first few days is the 4reasons Hotel, a chic 21-room boutique retreat 15 minutes walk from the waterfront.

    Run by the delightful Esra, it is stylish without being pretentious. Our all-white room is furnished with Turkish art and antiques and has a balcony that’s perfect for watching the spectacular sunsets.

    Golturkbuku has a very different feel to laid-back Yalikavak. This is where the beautiful and wealthy come to play, arriving on gleaming yachts and sipping caipirinhas at cocktail bars overlooking the water.

    Part of the joy of staying on the peninsula is the chance to explore the different villages. None are more than a 20 to 30-minute drive and there are regular “dolmuses” (minibuses) which provide an excellent service if you don’t want to hire a car.

    We are keen to visit Golturkbuku, said to be Turkey’s answer to the French Riviera. Although it is relatively low season the beach clubs are still running with decked platforms over the water, elegant white loungers and raffia chairs.

    Hip hotels line the gently curving bay and we combine a lazy day on the beach with a browse in the chic boutiques. Golturkbuku has a very different feel to laid-back Yalikavak. This is where the beautiful and wealthy come to play, arriving on gleaming yachts and sipping caipirinhas at cocktail bars overlooking the water.

    Those who sail into Golturkbuku usually head on for a few nights in Bodrum and we do the same, swapping our small boutique hotel for a couple of nights at the Grand Yazici, a sleek, modern hotel with a spectacular pool area. It sits on the hillside above the town affording mesmerising views over the rooftops to the castle and gulet-lined harbour.

    We head into the winding streets and alleys that run between the whitewashed houses in the Old Town. It’s here where the real atmosphere is to be found.

    We stumble across La Pasion, a lovely Spanish tapas restaurant in a candlelit courtyard and although it feels a little surreal to be tucking into patatas bravas and albondigas (meatballs), the food, particularly the crab croquettes, is fantastic.

    The bright lights of Bodrum feel like a complete contrast after our few days on the peninsula and the chance to experience both in one week is what makes this such a great choice.

    GETTING THERE: Anatolian Sky (0844 273 3586/ anatoliansky.co.uk) offers seven nights at the 4reasons Hotel from £729pp (two sharing), B&B, or seven nights at the Grand Yazici from £745pp (two sharing), B&B.

    Price includes return flights from the UK and transfers. Rhino Car Hire (0845 508 9845/ rhinocarhire.com) offers seven days car hire from £135.

    Express Readers can claim a 10% discount via rhinocarhire.com/Express.aspx. Quote “Express Discount” when booking. Turkish Culture and Tourism Office: 020 7839 7778/ gototurkey.co.uk

    via Expanding Turkey’s menu | Travel | Life & Style | Daily Express.

  • Looking for spring in Bodrum | Istanbul through my eyes

    Looking for spring in Bodrum | Istanbul through my eyes

    Looking for spring in Bodrum

    Obviously, we all were tired of this neverending winter, loads of office work and killing routine.

    In Estonia it can take nervewrackingly long time until spring shows its warm and sunny face. Especially this year. Though we hadn´t much snow this winter , we´ve had „lousy ski-weather“ with slush, rain and cold winds until April… But enough of this. Bygone! Some e-mails whizzed between Estonia and Turkey and…

    Two dear friends of mine, Kaire and Iiris, me and two of my children took off to Bodrum at the end of March.

    Why Bodrum?! In March?!

    The reason is that we have a secret garden there… Let´s say – we simply do some gardening there before gardening time starts in Estonia. The secret place is Hotel Gülec and we enjoy every minute being there, planting and „re-organizing“ flowers in the garden. We help to tidy and decorate this garden before the season start in Bodrum. To be honest, garden is the gem of this pansion. Just a thought of breakfast served in the sunny garden under tangerine trees and bougainvilleas… In March apricot is in blossom, yellow plump lemons ready to be picked, geraniums showing their shy buds…

    bodrum kaire raiend 5

    Bodrum-Turkey, photos by Kaire Raiend

    Choosing new plants, haggling with the market seller… then carrying „home“ selected goods, thinking where to plant all these beauties, how to group the colors. Have a cup of tea. Or two J All that stuff, you know.

    Off-season time in Bodrum is just perfect for us – no tourist-stress, calm and laid-back atmosphere. Already it is possible to sit at the seaside (with a cup of warming sahlep). No, we wouldn´t recommend swimming in March… too cold. We´d suggest a visit to a hamam instead (its just across the street from the bus station). Eateries are not crowded. One can see more of local people´s life.

    This time we also managed to visit Kos. Trip to this Greek island takes only 1 hour by boat. One can catch a glimpse of Bodrum neighbors by going on a one-day trip there. Of course, there are plenty of possibilities to prolong the stay. But we didn´t stay this time. Part of this day we spent in an eatery named Evdokia (13 Bouboulinas Str.). Incredibly tasty home-made food. Strongly recommended by random locals and now we recommend it too. Definitely.

    Bodrum-Turkey, photos by Eleka Rugam-Rebane

    Bodrum-Turkey, photos by Eleka Rugam-Rebane

    So, with somewhat sad feelings we left Bodrum after 5 extremely laid-back days and took off to Istanbul. It is not thinkable just to pass by Istanbul…

    Istanbul greeted us with sunshine, yet it was quite windy. As I had two children with me, it was inevitable to check out some places attractive to them. This time our choice was Istanbul Akvaryum in Florya and it was definitely worth visiting. Impressive exposition. Captivating sea world – Black Sea, Mediterranean, Aegean Sea, oceans… twisted with some episodes from Turkish history.

    via Looking for spring in Bodrum | Istanbul through my eyes.

  • Visiting Bodrum in Turkey | Pommie Travels

    Visiting Bodrum in Turkey | Pommie Travels

    Visiting Bodrum in Turkey

    By victoria on March 5, 2012 in BLOG

    A few years ago I took a ferry from the Greek Island of Kos to Bodrum in Turkey with my boyfriend at the time. I constantly meet people taking holidays to Turkey and they’re always raving about it, so whilst we were touring the Greek Islands it made sense for us to hop over and see what all the fuss was about.

    One of the most notable differences was the cost of everything in Turkey. Since they don’t have the Euro and their currency is still the Turkish Lira, we found our money stretched a lot further on food and accommodation.

    Arriving on the ferry into Bodrum’s smart marina, we found accommodation by walking around the streets of the town and simply asking about the prices for a room until we found something suitable.

    Bodrum Marina e1330961491997

    Bodrum Marina, Turkey

    Bodrum Marina

    This tourist town is basically split into two parts. To the East of Bodrum is a pebble beach lined with restaurants, cafes and bars and this is where you’ll find most of the action. By day you can laze on the sun loungers by the water and play a game of backgammon, and after 10pm you can take advantage of the booming nightlife.

    There’s a wide selection of restaurants in this area, with jolly Turks standing outside trying to joke with you and get you to come in for a bite to eat. I loved the food- particularly the cheap döner kebabs, but we also had some delicious Turkish stews and some great seafood. I’ll never forget Turkish Erik, which are these bitter unripe green plums that you eat with salt- surprisingly tasty.

    To the West of the town is the Marina filled with expensive yachts and here you’ll find some more up-market restaurants. This area is generally quieter and more laid-back, and it’s nice to have a stroll around here in the daytime. Whilst there aren’t that many sights to see in Bodrum, the most notable landmark is Bodrum Castle, which overlooks the harbour. Built by the Crusaders in the 15th century, the castle grounds house the Museum of Underwater Archaeology.

    We also hired a motorbike one day and toured the surrounding coastline- well worth doing if you want to find some more attractive beaches.

    Bodrum really comes alive at night, with lots of bars and clubs along the waterfront. The most famous club when I was there was the massive outdoor disco, Halikarnas, but rumour has it the club closed down in 2011. Whether it will re-open, I’m not sure, but Halikarnas was known for its foam parties and for attracting top artists and DJs. When I was there it was the night of the Eurovision song contest, and a famous Turkish singer was performing, although I can’t quite remember her name. Perhaps you’ll recognize her from the pictures below.

    For anyone who loves to party, there’s also a party boat simply called Club Catamaran. This floating club can fit 1500 partygoers, and features 6 bars with a glass dance floor so you can literally dance on water. The party kicks off at midnight and lasts until the sun comes up, but for those who want to hit the hay there’s a shuttle boats that depart every 15 minutes back to shore. There are also day parties that include a buffet lunch and take you to Camel Beach as well as Bodrum, Kargı, Bağla, Ortakent, Bitez, Aquarium, and Gümbet Bays.

    Since I loved it so much, this year I definitely hope to go back and explore more of Turkey, particularly Istanbul and Cappadocia.

    Related posts:

    Turkey for Different Types of Traveller

    A Quick Guide to Visiting British Columbia

    Turkish Food and Eating Out in Istanbul

    Visiting Manchester? Download my walking tour for iPhone

    via Visiting Bodrum in Turkey | Pommie Travels.