Turkish Forum

Tag: Beyoglu

  • Gallery Stroll: Istanbul – NYTimes.com

    Gallery Stroll: Istanbul – NYTimes.com

    ISTANBUL — Unpredictable weather means winter isn’t the most popular season for visiting Istanbul, but it is a great time for gallery-hopping: Many of the best museums and art spaces in the Beyoglu district have just opened compelling new exhibitions.

    At Arter, the curator Emre Baykal has gathered mostly new works by Turkish artists to create the second installment of “Envy, Enmity, Embarrassment.” Here, the artist known as Canan presents the installation, “I beg you please do not speak to me of love,” a room plastered with erotic movie posters from the heyday of the Yesilcam porn industry of the 1970s. In a transparent case in one corner of the room is a seemingly innocent white bathrobe. Embroidered on its back is a suicide note.

    Other interesting works include “Twin Goddess: The Sketch of an Encounter,” an embroidered collage by Nilbar Gures using ancient symbols from Anatolian archaeology, and “The Island” by Hera Buyuktasciyan, a look at taboos swept under the rug.

    Hale Tenger’s “I Know People Like This III,” at the Arter exhibition space in Istanbul.
    Hale Tenger’s “I Know People Like This III,” at the Arter exhibition space in Istanbul.

     

    The most powerful piece in this show is Hale Tenger’s “I Know People Like This III.” Visitors who enter the gallery from Istiklal Caddesi walk through this chronological maze of x-ray prints, a sort of light-box labyrinth, that lays out traumatic images from Turkish political history, including public protests, the killing of journalists and scenes of violence that followed the 1980 military coup.

    On the parallel street, Mesrutiyet Caddesi, the Pera Museum has just opened a double-barreled program. A retrospective of the works of the Hungarian-American photographer Nickolas Muray covers the dashing man-about-town’s early black-and-white art nudes as well as his color-saturated portraits of beauties like Marilyn Monroe, Elizabeth Taylor and a woman he adored, Frida Kahlo. On another floor, “Between Desert and Sea” presents a selection of 52 works from the Jordan National Gallery of Fine Arts, pieces that speak to topical issues like religion, the rights of women, and the impact of the Arab Spring revolutions.

    At the Salt Galata, a 10-minute stroll away on Bankalar Caddesi, “1 + 8″ is an installation of large-screen videos by Cynthia Madansky and Angelika Brudniak, who traveled to the borders between Turkey and its eight neighbors: Greece, Bulgaria, Georgia, Armenia, Nakchivan, Iran, Iraq and Syria to tape local residents talking about their daily lives and hopes. In the case of Iran, just a black screen is shown: The artists were refused permission to film in Iran, but they managed to record audio of Iranians who had crossed into Turkey for personal or business reasons. None felt safe having their faces shown.

    via Gallery Stroll: Istanbul – NYTimes.com.

  • Elegy for Istanbul’s Inci Pastanesi

    Elegy for Istanbul’s Inci Pastanesi

    We would have liked to like the profiterol at İnci Pastanesi, and to believe their claim that the profiterol was invented on the premises in the 1940s. But in fact, we’ve always appreciated İnci for non-culinary reasons. Until last week, this old-school Beyoğlu pastry shop had been spooning out cream puffs covered in chocolate goop for almost 70 years with respect for tradition and a refreshing contempt for the latest trends in interior design. Our eyes had grown used to resting on its charmingly worn façade as we walked down İstiklal Caddesi. For better or worse, İnci was an institution.

    cb ist inci amullins final1

    Last Friday, we were alarmed to see a line of police and several moving trucks blocking our view of İnci. As we got closer and saw the cargo in the back of one truck – crates of eggs, banged-up stainless steel coolers – we realized that İnci was being gutted. It was a painful sight that, for us at least, represented the final chapter in the story of this neighborhood in the last century.

    For many, the mention of İnci wells up a sentimental memory of the first taste of something sweet in this classic patisserie, but for us, as non-local students of the area’s heritage, it always represented the last of public emblem of Beyoğlu’s non-Muslim community, a culture long on life support. Though the history of İnci – established in 1944 by a Greek migrant from Albania named Lucas Zigoridis (aka Luka Zigori) – is more recent than the late-19th-century heyday of the neighborhood, it was still a part of that tradition.

    Despite the glam pastry scene of İstiklal Caddesi at the time (in an interview with Milliyet, Zigoridis spoke of the stiff competition), the 1940s was a dark period for Beyoğlu, later followed by even darker times. Zigoridis surely saw many of his neighbors and friends shipped off to work camps when the Varlık Vergisi, or “wealth tax,” effectively targeted minorities. A decade into his lease, the shop owner must have feared for his life on September 6-7, 1955 when two days of violent looting trashed nearly every Greek-owned business on İstiklal Caddesi, prompting an exodus of native Greeks from Istanbul to Greece, Europe and North America. And we can only imagine how difficult it must have been for Lucas Bey to continue serving profiterole in the 1970s, after seeing his own son (among many other Istanbul Greeks) forced to emigrate to Greece at a moment’s notice.

    But Lucas Bey stayed put at his shop in the Cercle D’Orient building at İstiklal Caddesi 124, spooning out profiterole through the gritty ’80s and ’90s, when even a porn theater was considered a good neighbor. He must have watched the tailors and other esnaf, the theaters and the old meyhanes slowly disappear until he himself passed away, leaving the keys and the lease with his apprentice, Musa Ateş, who dutifully carried it out to its last days.

    So while it’s nice to think of İnci with a twinge of nostalgia, as a reminder of the era of misyurler and madamlar, we find it hard not to be reminded of the neighborhood’s cultural destruction. Walking into İnci meant stepping into the past, accompanied by all of Beyoğlu’s ghosts. İnci witnessed it all, and the pastry shop’s forced closure after losing an appeal to retain its lease feels like nothing less than a desecration of the memory of this neighborhood.

    We are certain that once the Cercle D’Orient building is demolished and “restored” as a shopping mall, the Istanbul municipality will glue a small plaque commemorating the spot where the İnci once stood. Though a laughable gesture pointing to a failure to protect the neighborhood’s heritage, it will at least make it easier for the ghosts to find their way back to haunt the Gap or the food court or whatever ends up at İstiklal Caddesi 124.

    via Elegy for Istanbul’s Inci Pastanesi | Culinary Backstreets.

  • Istiklal Avenue in Istanbul

    Istiklal Avenue in Istanbul

    Istiklal Avenue in Istanbul

    Istanbul, Turkey

    On of the most lively avenues in Istanbul, beginning at Taksim Square. Must visit.

    Photos and Videos property and credits to CM by Carlos Melia / www.carlosmeliablog.com / www.carlosmelia.com. Full usage of this media is allowed only and exclusively when including full credits as mentioned above. Carlos Melia

    via Istiklal Avenue in Istanbul – YouTube.

  • A taste of tradition in old Istanbul

    A taste of tradition in old Istanbul

    2545275994MBCH An aerial view of Istanbul, Turkey.
    Published on Tuesday 6 December 2011 15:51

    Cold weather, cultural clashes and cuisine worthy of Sultans follow Sarah O’Meara around her week-long tour of Istanbul.

    A wise restaurant manager once told me Turkey enjoys what residents call ‘a posthumous summer’. Mid-way through October, a brief cold and often very wet snap descends before the thermostat resets and Turks enjoy another bout of late autumnal heat ahead of winter’s final chilly victory.

    Unfortunately, this sage came into my life too late for me to pack a brolly for my recent week-long trip to Istanbul. Dripping wet, my husband and I heard the story on our first night in the city, along with the only other couple who’d ventured out to Asitane restaurant that stormy night.

    “We’ve had 21 couples cancel,” explained the manager of the authentic Ottoman restaurant. Still, a steaming plate of fruity lamb nestled in a carved-out melon (a dish first served by Sultan Suleiman to celebrate his sons’ circumcision in November 1539, apparently), did something to dry our dampened spirits.

    For thousands of years, emperors, sultans and their millions of loyal citizens have enjoyed the very special Bosphorus riverside location of Istanbul, which is at its best when the sun’s out and the water twinkles with optimism.

    While it may no longer be the seat of a grand continent-spanning empire – as Constantinople (now Istanbul) was during the Roman and subsequent Ottoman period, from 1453 until 1923 – it still hums with optimistic energy on both its European and Asian shores.

    In keeping with her Asian neighbours, Istanbul’s 12 million residents, up from three million in the 1970s, are enjoying an economic boom.

    Sadly for the tourists who jostle out of the many mosques and palaces, this can mean mayhem. The quickest way for visitors to burn through their money is in a taxi, as the city’s inadequate transport system means the roads are in gridlock most of the time.

    If you’re in Istanbul for a whistlestop tour, it’s probably easiest to stay bang in the centre, within tram-riding distance of the historic districts (Sultanahmet) and the modern bars and shops (Beyoglu).

    For those in need of a treat, last year the Pera Palace Hotel opened its doors after a two-year restoration. The famous 1892 hotel, which originally provided the last destination stop for travellers arriving on the Orient Express, is a tribute to the city’s first forays into fashionable Western living.

    Tasteful and effortlessly elegant, a few nights staying in the most refined hotel in town, faithfully furnished with antique bureaux and marble-clad bathrooms, will transport you back to those more glamorous times when Greta Garbo, Ernest Hemingway and Sarah Bernhardt stalked Europe’s capitals looking for inspiration and the high life.

    Indeed, Room 411 is believed to be the place where Agatha Christie wrote Murder On The Orient Express.

    Sitting on your French balcony, you’ll see Istanbul’s housing skyline stretching far into the middle distance. Yet the areas of interest for tourists are relatively self-contained nearby.

    Probably the best decision we made, after buying an umbrella, was investing in a tour guide. It’s no mean feat absorbing the city’s history, which stretches from the moment Roman emperor Constantine I designated it his new Christian capital in the 7th century, to the eventual fall of the Islamic Ottoman empire, while still enjoying the sights.

    And a guide’s also useful for pointing out the best place to eat really nice kofte (meatballs) or lahmacun (Turkish-style thin pizza) for lunch.

    For tourists who don’t want to spend all their time sightseeing, you can take in the top three sights in a day. Topkapi Palace, home to the Ottoman Sultans, complete with harem; the Hagia Sophia, an impressive cathedral turned mosque, before being declared a museum by Ataturk, and the Blue Mosque are all within walking distance. Very handy if you’re just there for the weekend.

    Each building is a tribute to the vision of the country’s rulers, with The Blue Mosque (officially called the Sultan Ahmed Mosque) in particular drawing the eye with its six minarets, just one less than the most prestigious mosque in Mecca.

    If you’ve got more time in town, then take advantage of Istanbul’s location spanning the Bosphorus river. Along the coast on both the European and Asian sides are fishing villages boasting charming restaurants and relaxing views.

    After a day of sightseeing, there’s one Turkish tradition that should definitely be adhered to. Whether you prefer to try the communal bath approach or high-end treatment, a Turkish hammam is an exquisitely quirky affair.

    Halfway between a wash and a massage, depending on your budget, these traditional baths can be found all over the city.

    For a personal, delicate treatment, head to the beautifully renovated Ciragan Palace (

    Afterwards we dined overlooking the Bosphorus at the hotel’s Tugra restaurant, enjoying one of the most romantic locations the city has to offer.

    Halfway through the week we left the city centre behind and sought out a boutique hotel on the Asian side of Istanbul.

    The Hotel A’jia is a serene former ‘yali’ (palatial summer mansion of the Ottoman elite) that is a 90-minute drive from Sultanahmet or one-hour boat journey.

    All modern lines, white walls and contemporary art, it’s the ideal place to chill out, with the skyline of Istanbul printed along the glass wall of your room.

    Once ensconced, our one venture out was to join the glitterati for the night at Mimolett, Istanbul’s closest hope for a Michelin star.

    A pet project for head chef Murat Bozok, into which he has reportedly poured his heart and the contents of his wallet, it’s worthy of Mayfair with its mirrored walls, splendid modern chandeliers and tantalising menu.

    Allow more than a few hours at this stunning restaurant to devour dishes such as spicy tuna with olive and eggplant paste and savour splendid Turkish Kayra Chardonnay.

    Then head out for a digestif at one of the city’s many rooftop bars, such as Zoe’s just round the corner (

    Key facts – Istanbul

    :: Best for: History buffs and bar flies.

    :: Time to go: Late spring or summer.

    :: Don’t miss: A rooftop bar.

    :: Need to know: Cabs are expensive and traffic jams common.

    :: Don’t forget: To book a guide – visit

    Travel facts

    Sarah O’Meara was a guest of Pera Palace, where double rooms start from 200 euros, and Hotel A’jia, where rooms start from 270 euros, including breakfast.

    Return flights with Pegasus

  • İstiklal Caddesi — Istanbul’s Leading Pedestrian Scene

    İstiklal Caddesi — Istanbul’s Leading Pedestrian Scene

    İstiklal Caddesi — Istanbul’s Leading Pedestrian Scene

    rick2

    Istanbul’s main street, İstiklal Caddesi, throbs with crowds all day and into the wee hours. I visit it almost every year, and it changes with each visit. As Turkey becomes more affluent and Western, the action here becomes more and more vibrant. This clip is actually a quieter part of the mile-long stroll. And it’s early in the evening. On weekdays the action peaks around 10 p.m., and on weekends it keeps building until about 2 a.m. The side streets are just as vibrant.

    via Rick Steves: Blog Gone Europe » Blog Archive » İstiklal Caddesi — Istanbul’s Leading Pedestrian Scene.

  • Istanbul’s public drinking dispute is bigger than tables and chairs

    Istanbul’s public drinking dispute is bigger than tables and chairs

    graeme smith

    ISTANBUL— From Wednesday’s Globe and Mail

    Turkish Prime Minister Recep Tayyip Erdogan recently toured the Middle East, touting his government as a new model of Islamism – progressive, modern and tolerant – for a region at a political crossroads.

    That kind of talk drives people crazy in the heart of Istanbul’s Beyoglu nightlife district.

    Patrons sit outside a bar in Beyoglu, in the heart of Istanbul, where authorities have banned tables and chairs in the street since mid-July. Charla Jones for The Globe and Mail
    Patrons sit outside a bar in Beyoglu, in the heart of Istanbul, where authorities have banned tables and chairs in the street since mid-July. Charla Jones for The Globe and Mail

    Patrons sit outside a bar in Beyoglu, in the heart of Istanbul, where authorities have banned tables and chairs in the street since mid-July.

    Charla Jones for The Globe and Mail

    Bar and restaurant owners say thousands of workers have lost their jobs after a decision in July that swept patio tables off the streets, and they speculate that the pious Mr. Erdogan may be trying to hide the most visibly hedonistic side of his country at this sensitive moment of outreach to the Arab world.

    “We are turning East, politically and economically,” said Tahir Berrakkarasu, director of a local business association. “Today’s administration is against alcohol, basically, because they think it’s immoral.”

    Much of the speculation focuses on a visit by the Prime Minister during a religious holiday this summer, which left the bar owner with the uncomfortable feeling that the patio dispute involved more than the usual bickering over municipal rules.

    Istanbul still has a more rollicking bar scene than any Canadian city, and Mr. Erdogan has never admitted a role in the squabbles over its regulation. Tables and chairs in pedestrian walkways technically fall under the mandate of the local mayor. Supporters of the Prime Minister argue that the ruckus over patio tables could not have been linked with his foreign policy, or his religious views, by pointing out that the mayor’s men have been playing a cat-and-mouse game with restaurant owners for years.

    Local officials set limits on how much of the sidewalk could serve as a seating area for eating and drinking, and establishments merrily thwarted those rules with a mix of bribery, trickery and brazen disobedience. The municipality’s failure to control the tables spilling into the streets gave the old neighbourhoods of Beyoglu a bohemian charm that attracted an estimated 2.6 million visitors on busy summer weekends.

    The Prime Minister himself was among the recent visitors, although he wasn’t stopping for a beer. Witnesses saw a convoy of five or six black sedans roll into the neighbourhood on July 15, part of a three-day religious holiday. It’s rumoured that Mr. Erdogan was marking the occasion with a visit to the Galata Mevlevihanesi, an historic hall founded by Sufi Muslims in 1491.

    A bar owner, who declined to be identified for fear of retaliation against his business, said he saw the convoy leaving Beyoglu, slowly creeping down a hill. It was a typical Friday afternoon, he said, with patrons jam-packed at small tables that occupied the entire sidewalk, forcing throngs of pedestrians into the cobblestone street. The scene would have reflected the cosmopolitanism of this urban enclave, with local Muslim girls in short skirts often indistinguishable from tourists.

    Somebody who appeared to be a bodyguard poked his head out of one of the black sedans and started screaming at people blocking the convoy’s path, the bar owner said. He cast doubt on a widespread rumour that patrons had lifted their beer and wine glasses to salute the Prime Minister, but added that it may have happened when he wasn’t looking.

    If one of Mr. Erdogan’s bodyguards did lose his temper, it wouldn’t have been an isolated incident. A United Nations guard was hospitalized with bruised ribs on Sept. 23 after a fight with the Turkish Prime Minister’s entourage.

    Nor would it have been unusual for Mr. Erdogan to make policy spontaneously: Last January, upon seeing a pair of concrete statues built in eastern Turkey in the name of peaceful relations between Turkey and Armenia, the Prime Minister reportedly called the sculpture “a monstrosity” and ordered it destroyed.

    Whatever the impetus, municipal authorities scrambled to clear away the patios. A series of raids began on July 20, with swarms of security officers removing tables – at times, locals say, while patrons were eating. The head waiter at one restaurant recalled chasing after the trucks that removed his patio furniture; after long negotiations, he obtained a permit to recover the items from a municipal yard, only to discover that the security forces had smashed them.

    A similarly crushing response quelled some of the demonstrations that sprang up against what became known as the “Table Operation.” In Galata Square, a teenager played saxophone while his friends sang protest songs; plainclothes security officers shoved their way into the crowd and arrested the ringleaders, amid scuffles.

    A local business group, Beyder, says it has collected 30,000 signatures on a petition against the operation. The group estimates that 2,500 staff have lost their jobs, as the dispute drags into its third month, but a quick resolution seems unlikely.

    “The problem is bigger than the tables and chairs,” said Aydin Ali Kalayci, an executive member of Beydar, who runs a popular restaurant. “The problem is that the money is flowing now from the Middle East, so they want to make changes in our society. Time is running out for us.”