Turkey’s national flag carrier Turkish Airlines’ (THY) first direct flight from the U.S. capital city arrived in Istanbul on Sunday.
THY started direct flights between Istanbul and Washington D.C. on Saturday.
Turkey’s Ambassador in Washington D.C. Namik Tan, as well as several U.S. congressmen and native American leaders were among the 202 passengers who flew to Istanbul with THY’s first flight.
Speaking at a reception held at Washington Dulles International Airport prior to the aircraft’s departure, THY’s Director General Temel Kotil said direct flights between Istanbul and Washington would help the businessmen, politicians and people of the two countries reach each other in an easier way.
Kotil said flights would be held 4 times a week in the beginning and would be increased to 7 flights a week in near future.
The director general also noted that Istanbul would become the meeting point of passengers travelling from Asia, Middle East and Africa to USA thanks to THY’s new flights to Washington.
Speaking to AA reporter on board the THY plane that departed from Washington for Istanbul, Turkey’s Ambassador in Washington D.C. Namik Tan said direct flights between Turkey and the U.S. capital would increase the human contact and eliminate the lack of information between the two countries.
Moreover, U.S. Congressman William Delahunt told AA that the flights were an indicator of the increasing awareness between Turkey and the U.S.
Delahunt also said Turkey offered great opportunities for U.S. investors, and the economic cooperation between the two countries should be improved.
Speaking to reporters upon his arrival at Istanbul’s Ataturk Airport, Turkish Ambassador Tan said THY’s flights would carry the important relations between the U.S. and Turkey to a step further.
Describing Washington as the “political heart” of the United States, Tan said direct flights between the U.S. capital and Turkey would meet the needs of both politicians desiring to hold talks with their U.S. counterparts and the Turkish community living in Washington D.C..
Ever heard, or even said, the phrases, ‘It’s full of tourists. I don’t go there. It’ll be too expensive.’ Well, if you skip these places, you could well be missing out, as we found out when we went to Istanbul in October.
Beautiful interior of Çiçek Pasajı
This is a photo of the famous Çiçek Pasajı (Flower Passageway) along Istiklal Caddesi. The first time we went to Istanbul, about six years ago, we had a walk through Çiçek Pasajı as it was on our list of Istanbul must-sees. We’d been advised not to eat or drink in there because ‘it was touristy and over-priced,’ by friends and by one of our guidebooks. Ever since then, we’ve walked past the beautiful Çiçek Pasajı and never really given it a second thought. ‘Lovely as it is, we’ve seen it – no need to go in there again,’ was our thinking.
However, being that we write a blog about Turkey these days (had you noticed?) we decided to stroll through the building just to grab a couple of photos of the interior. We went in through the rear entrance and walked down, towards Istiklal Caddesi, ignoring all the empty ‘expensive’ restaurants and I took a couple of photos. Now, if you read this blog regularly (or if you know us), you’ll know we’re no strangers to the odd Efes Pilsen every now and then. Exploring the delights of Istanbul is thirsty work and we’d been wandering around for most of the day…
Imagine our delight when we discovered a little bar just before the exit from Çiçek Pasajı. Imagine our even greater delight when we saw that a large Efes was being advertised at 5 lira. 5 lira. Can you believe it? The cheapest beer price we had seen all weekend! The cheapest beer price we had seen all weekend in ‘expensive’ Çiçek Pasajı. We sat our weary bodies down and took in our rather opulent surroundings while sipping and savouring our icy cold cheap beer, not quite believing our luck.
This place is a people watcher’s delight. We were in our element. Obviously, people from all over the world visit Istanbul and Çiçek Pasajı is on most of their ‘must see’ lists. Into the passage the people strolled, gazing up at the ceiling, pointing out different areas, videoing and photographing the beauty of the building…and out they strolled, straight back through the way they came in.
I can only think that Çiçek Pasjı has become a victim of it’s own beauty and fame. It has a reputation for being over-priced and maybe tourists avoid eating and drinking there because they believe it to be expensive. (It was expensive in the past.) But, judging by the price of our beer, maybe the over priced restaurants are no longer over priced. We sat at our little cheap bar – fantastic surroundings and a people-watching bonanza – for an hour or so and a quick photograph snapping session turned into a very pleasant (and cheaper than expected) afternoon, enjoying the delights of Çiçek Pasajı.
And the moral of the story? This is Turkey. Assume nothing and explore everything…you could miss out otherwise.
via Istanbul – Çiçek Pasajı (A Surprise Bargain) | Turkey’s For Life….
Thanks to a handful of new books by locals in the know, visitors to Istanbul can now delve even deeper into this city’s delights.
The American writer and teacher Ann Marie Mershon teamed up with a locally renowned guide, Edda Renker Weissenbacher, a polyglot Turk known for her fascinating strolls through undiscovered areas, to produce “Istanbul’s Bazaar Quarter: Backstreet Walking Tours.”
Their four chosen itineraries take readers down cobbled streets to narrow stairways, in the zone that stretches from Aksaray through the Grand Bazaar down to the Egyptian spice market.
“You could fly through any of the walks in an hour to 90 minutes,’’ Ms. Mershon said, “but to really enjoy them, you should allow about four hours for each.”
To find a lunch spot to break up those walks, try one of the frills-free places profiled in “Istanbul Eats: Exploring the Culinary Backstreets,” written by two Americans who have lived in Istanbul for years and who appreciate a well-grilled kofte.
The authors, Yigal Schleifer, an occasional contributor to this blog and the Times Travel section, and Ansel Mullins, a real estate consultant, have tracked down dozens of often-overlooked restaurants.
“There are so many great, amazing places in this city and the food culture is so rich and so deeply intertwined with the larger culture here,” Mr. Schleifer said over a serving of grilled meatballs at Kofteci Huseyin on a side street in the Beyoglu neighborhood. “But we kept seeing the same old places being advertised and promoted.’’
So they started a blog, Istanbul Eats, and the blog led to the book.
“Everybody comes to Istanbul expecting one type of thing: they’re really shocked to find there’s something other than the kebab,” Mr. Mullins said, wolfing down a generous portion of piyaz, a white bean and onion salad.
To help put that history into a contemporary context, Pat Yale, a London-born writer, and Saffet Emre Tonguc, a Turkish writer and private tour guide for clients like Oprah Winfrey, have collaborated on “Istanbul: The Ultimate Guide.”
At more than 600 pages, their encyclopedic effort takes readers to sites absent from most itineraries -– and guidebooks — like Yenikoy on the Bosporus and Caddebostan on the Asian side.
“Of course like everyone we wanted to cover Topkapi Palace and Hagia Sophia,” Ms. Yale wrote in an e-mail. “But Saffet and I wanted to show that there is also much that is fascinating about the more modern city — the Abud Efendi mansion that was used in the smash-hit Turkish soap opera Gumus, which is credited with kickstarting the Arab world’s recent love affair with the city.” (“Istanbul: The Ultimate Guide” will soon be available on Amazon.com and is sold in major bookstores in Istanbul.)
via New Guides to Istanbul Offer Insider Tips – NYTimes.com.
Turkey’s flag carrier Turkish Airlines (THY) will begin direct flights between İstanbul and Washington, D.C. on Nov. 6.
Eight congressmen, including William Delahunt and Jean Schmidt, will be on the first THY flight to take off from Washington, D.C. The congressmen will be received by Turkish Prime Minister Recep Tayyip Erdoğan and are scheduled to have several meetings.
THY has daily flights to New York and flies to Chicago six days a week. It will have three flights a week to the US capital.
by Meg Nesterov (RSS feed) on Nov 3rd 2010 at 3:30PM
Travelers visiting Istanbul this winter will pay extra to get around on public transportation. The transit authority has just put a fare hike in effect on the trams, metro, bus, and ferry lines, the first in a year and a half.
A single-leg token (jeton) will now cost 1.75 TL (about ($1.25), up from 1.50, but Akbil (smart ticket) carriers will pay 1.65 TL and .85 TL for transfers. Ferries between the Asian and European sides or along the Golden Horn will cost 1.75 TL, using a token or Akbil.
Read on for more info on the Akbil and how to use mass transit to get to Istanbul’s Ataturk airport.
An Akbil (smart ticket) is a small electronic button-like device that can be loaded with money at any major transit station or tram stop, and provides discounted transfers within an hour and a half of your first ride. The Akbil can be shared amongst multiple people, though only the discount will only apply to one passenger.Travelers can purchase a new Akbil with a 6 TL refundable deposit at major transit centers, though Taksim Square is the most reliable place to purchase one. Look for the booth that says “Akbil Satış Noktası” (Akbil sales point) rather than newsstands which may only allow recharges). There’s been talk of phasing out the Akbil in favor of the new RFID Istanbulkart but instituting the card into the system has caused delays and the card can’t currently be purchased.
While Istanbul’s transit system is not nearly as extensive or convenient as any many other European cities, most tourists will at least use the handy tram line during their travels, which connects many popular areas from Taksim Square (via an additional transfer from Kabatas on the funicular train) to the Old City sights including the Blue Mosque and Grand Bazaar. It is also possible to take public transit to the Ataturk airport if you have time to spare: a tram ride to the end of the line at Zeytinburnu connects with a metro line to the airport and takes a little over an hour (note: you can also transfer at Aksaray but it involves walking a few blocks, difficult with luggage).
A few additional kurus (cents) for a ride may not mean a lot to travelers, but with the dollar down 11 percent in the last 5 months, you’ll want to save your lira where you can.
LYNDA MCDONNEL and STEVE BRANDT Star Tribune (Minneapolis)
ISTANBUL — Our first morning in Istanbul, the waiter in our small hotel served us the traditional Turkish breakfast of olives, tomatoes, cucumbers, crusty bread and steaming tea. As we finished, he beckoned us up the stairs to the rooftop.
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IF YOU GO
GRAND BAZAAR: Think of it like the Mall of America without the amusement park. Even if you don’t like to shop, you should visit. With thousands of shops in a roofed labyrinth of lanes and fountains, the market’s size and hyped-up pitches from carpet and gold merchants can exhaust you. But bargaining over genial cups of tea for felted figures from Belarus or patchwork rugs made of carpet remnants can charm you.
Go early in the day with fresh energy and a destination in mind. A good guidebook will highlight the most interesting shops. Searching for a particular shop helps get you past the carpet salesmen who gather near entrances to steer newcomers to their stores.
BOSPHORUS CRUISE: From public ferries to posh dinner cruises, there are many options to see the Bosphorus Strait, the 32-kilometer channel that links the Sea of Marmara to the Black Sea. Sites include European-style palaces that sultans built, beautifully restored Ottoman houses and seaside restaurants featuring local fish. Depending on your schedule and budget, you can devote anywhere from three hours to a full day to exploring the waterway that gave Istanbul its strategic importance and carries much of its commercial traffic.
GETTING AROUND: Flights to Istanbul from the Twin Cities through New York’s JFK run about $1,200 currently. Within the country, distances to Cappadocia and the Aegean coast are greater than they appear on a map. While train routes are limited, inter-city buses are frequent, punctual, clean and affordable. But it will take all night on a bus to get from Istanbul to Cappadocia. Consider flying instead. Domestic fares are reasonable. Search for Pegasus Air or Onur Air on Google and click the “translate this page” button to see their websites in English. Or stop at one of the many small travel agencies in Istanbul to have them book flights for you.
WHERE TO STAY: Of three places we stayed in the Sultanamet district, the Cosmopolitan Park Hotel was our favorite, despite small rooms. The walk-up hotel has beautiful views of the Marmara Sea, a rooftop that looks out at the Blue Mosque and Hagia Sophia, and a desk clerk whose love of his city is infectious. In the summer, double rooms with sea views and private baths go for 72 euros, about $95 at $1.25 per euro (www.cosmopolitanparkhotel.com).
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Ferries on the Bosphorus offer some of the best view of Istanbul, a city where the minarets and domes of mosques dominate the skyline. Turkey is 97 percent Muslim. MCT photo
We gasped at the view. To the south, the Sea of Marmara stretched to the horizon. To the north, the vast domes of the Blue Mosque and Hagia Sophia looked close enough to touch. And beside us, the Muslim waiter recited his favorite passage from Paul’s First Letter to the Corinthians: “The first commandment is love.”
Our trip to Turkey last spring was full of moments like this, with Turks reaching across divisions of culture, religion and language with questions and assistance. A country that straddles Europe and Asia, Turkey reflects the influence and history of both.
In the West, we hear about the growing influence of Islam in Turkish politics after decades of secularism and military dominance. In the lively city of 16 million people, we saw more blending than displacement. In Istanbul cafes, Muslim women wearing chic headscarves sip tea in front of TV monitors blaring sexy rock videos. Young Muslim men sip Ephes beer and raki, a powerful anise-flavored liquor, at outdoor cafes. One beer-drinking tour guide explained that he’ll repent when he makes the hajj to Mecca as an old man.
Even our waiter’s knowledge of the New Testament is not as strange as it might seem. Paul once preached in Ephesus, an ancient Roman town of amphitheaters and baths that the Turks are excavating a few hours south of Istanbul. Istanbul itself was Christian from 330 A.D., when Constantine made it the capital of his Holy Roman Empire, to 1453, when Muslims conquered the city and made it the center of the Ottoman Empire.
After breakfast, we headed off to see Hagia Sophia and the Blue Mosque close up. Built as a Christian basilica in the seventh century, Hagia Sophia features soaring Byzantine domes and brilliant mosaics of saints. When the Ottomans took the city, they converted it to a mosque and installed enormous medallions in Arabic script, and a screened platform from which the sultan could watch unseen. In 1935, the secular Turkish Republic converted the building to a museum, but the worn stone floors and slanting afternoon light still evoke centuries of religious devotion.
Outside Hagia Sophia, a gentle man named Adnan introduced himself and offered to show us the Blue Mosque nearby, then take us to his cousin Joseph’s carpet shop. Carpet sellers are everywhere in Turkey, hailing tourists from shops and bazaars. Maybe we suffered from an excess of Minnesota Nice, but when a fellow leads you to the mosque entrance, describes its history, then waits for 30 minutes while you visit, it’s hard to refuse a visit to his cousin.
Once we reached the shop, cousin Joseph took over with a patter that blended charm, politics and persistence. “Why don’t more Americans visit?” he asked as one assistant unfurled carpets and another fetched us tulip-shaped glasses of tea. Is it because of the Armenians who died after World War I? The pile of carpets grew taller. Perhaps you like a kilim. What color? What size? More tea?
Istanbul eats
By the time we left — without a carpet — we were hungry. So we hopped a ferry for the Kadikoy district, a lively neighborhood of cafes and restaurants on the city’s Asian side.
At Kadikoy, a highlight is Ciya Sofrasi, a modest restaurant famous for food from many regions of Turkey. Ciya’s owner, Musa Dagdeviren, has dedicated himself to recovering old recipes and using local, seasonal ingredients.
In early spring, green almond soup and cooked nettles were on the menu. Even familiar dishes like tabouli had a distinctive flavor thanks to ingredients like pomegranate vinegar.
Our waiter brought plate after plate of mese — appetizer-sized delicacies made of eggplant, peppers, olives, lentils, tomato — until we could hold no more. An American friend living in Turkey later taught us the word “yavas,” meaning “slowly,” a helpful word to know when the plates come faster than your stomach can handle.
We left with carry-out tins and feasted on the contents for lunch the next day.
Off the beaten path
During five days in Istanbul, we bargained for jewelry at the Grand Bazaar and admired palaces on a cruise up the Bosphorus. We strolled past fine shops and restaurants in the cosmopolitan Beyoglu neighborhood and marveled at the luxury of the Topkapi palace, where sultans and their harems lived.
But on the day we most treasure, we headed off in search of more remote parts of the city. We began with a plan to explore Yedikule, a massive fortress that guarded the city’s southern approaches, then walk 6.5 kilometers to the Golden Horn along the ancient city wall that once protected the city from European invaders.
With few tourists and no guard or “Keep Off” signs in sight, we roamed the battlements that link Yedikule’s seven towers.
Too tired to walk the entire length of the city wall, we took a cab to its northern edge and spent the next few hours meandering through the twisting narrow streets that cut through the hills of working-class neighborhoods.
Here was another city entirely. Smokestacks venting acrid coal smoke competed for rooftop space with solar water heaters and satellite TV dishes. An occasional rooster crowed as if to underscore how the city has swelled with millions of immigrants from the countryside.
Our path took us past wooden Ottoman houses with overhanging second stories, many crumbling, some beautifully restored. In the conservative Fatih neighborhood, we encountered crowds of young men in turbans and women wearing the abaya, a black cloak revealing only a pale diamond of forehead and eyes. Even there, one woman blinked a wordless welcome.
Near the end of our walk, we stopped at a teahouse high on a hill overlooking the Golden Horn. As we sipped strong tea in the afternoon light, the call to prayer began. In a city with more than 2,000 mosques, the call began with one voice, then two, then a dissonant chorus amplified through loudspeakers mounted high on minarets.
Some voices were high and thin, others low and deep. For several moments, they sang out different words in different cadences united in their praise of Allah. Slowly the voices dropped off until only one was left. Then it, too, stopped. For a moment before the murmur of conversation and buzz of motorbikes and buses returned, the sound of prayer echoed.
Turkey’s Ambassador in Washington D.C. Namik Tan, as well as several U.S. congressmen and native American leaders were among the 202 passengers who flew to Istanbul with THY’s first flight.
