Category: News

  • REMEMBER: NEED TO PROTECT THE HUMAN DIGNITY AND HUMAN RİGHTS OF ALL PEOPLE

    REMEMBER: NEED TO PROTECT THE HUMAN DIGNITY AND HUMAN RİGHTS OF ALL PEOPLE

    by Sevgin OKTAY, The Light Millennium
    NGO Representative to the United Nations Department of Public Information

    “The first Amendment of the United States constitution does not protect freedom of speech that promotes hatred and for that matter incitement to kill.  And yet, there are summer youth camps in this country where they incite young minds to harbor hatred and killing towards certain ethnic groups as can be found in some published books. The point was made that perhaps courts are not applying what the constitution provides.”

    It was a pleasure for me to attend, as a Light Millennium NGO Representative to the United Nations Department of Public Information on Thursday, 25 January 2018, a Briefing about learning from the past through Holocaust remembrance and embracing certain values to help prevent such acts of terror from recurring in the future with an exact title of “Holocaust Remembrance: Diversity and Lessons to be Learned for Human Understanding“.  The program was organized in collaboration with the United Nations Outreach Program which, by the way, I had come to know about when I had participated in the United Nations Institute & Research (UNITAR) “Workshop on Genocide Prevention and the Responsibility to Protect” back in January of 2014 as Vice President of the Poughkeepsie chapter of the World Affairs Council of America.  I thought the Briefing was well prepared and the panelists conveyed their learned lessons by dissecting the complicated issues into a set of objectives which could be carried out effectively, namely:

    • Preserving Holocaust memory;
    • Combatting prejudices through educational missions; and
    • Helping to secure justice and fair treatment for all

    Ms. Hawa Diallo, made the Opening Remarks of the Briefing. Photos by: The Light Millennium

     

    HIGHLIGHTS FROM THE BRIEFING:

    The Briefing opened with Welcome remarks made by Hawa Diallo, NGO Relations & Advocacy Unit, followed by moderator Kimberly Mann, Chief, Education and Outreach Section.

    Hawa Diallo began her United Nations career in 1987 with the Department of Public Information in New York. From 1992 to 1994, she served in two United Nations Peacekeeping Operations in Cambodia and Somalia. Upon her return to New York, Ms. Diallo joined the Office of the Deputy Secretary-General until moving to the United Nations Human Settlements Program (UN Habitat) in Nairobi, as an Associate Human Settlements Officer and later worked as a Partners and Youth Officer until moving to the Agency’s New York Liaison Office in 2010. In 2013, Ms. Diallo was appointed Public Information Officer in the NGO Relations Section of the Department of Public Information.

    In her opening remarks, Ms. Hawa Diallo thanked, what she called “dynamic” NGO expert panelists, including:   Ms. Evelyn Sommer, Chair, World Jewish Congress, North America; Sarah Kaidanow; David Michaels, Director, UN and Intercommunal Affairs, B’nai B’rith International; Jason Sirois, National Director, No Place for Hate initiative, Anti-Defamation League for their participating at this Holocaust Remembrance event and sharing their work here. She went on to say that it is important that we learn from the atrocities and holocaust that were experienced during the second world War and share lessons learned so that they may never be repeated.  She encouraged using social media to spread the word.  In fact, the whole  Briefing may be watched on UN Web TV:

    Ms. Kimberly Mann took over to moderate the rest of the session. According to her bio, she is Chief of Education Outreach in the United Nations Department of Public Information, where she develops the strategy for and oversees the implementation of global education initiatives, including remembrance of the transatlantic slave trade, Holocaust education, Model UN and other youth projects. From 2005 to 2015, Ms. Mann served as the manager of the Holocaust education program and she continues to represent the United Nations at the International Holocaust Remembrance Alliance. Ms. Mann joined the Organization in 1993, where she has held several positions, including Chief of Special Projects, Manager of the Messengers of Peace Program and Desk Officer for the United Nations Information Centers in Africa. Prior to this she worked in public relations and advertising and as a teacher.

    Ms. Mann welcomed the panelists, the NGO representatives attending the Briefing as well as the visitors on the UN Web TV and she noted the other activities that were taking place at the United Nations that week, namely, Holocaust Remembrance and shared responsibility seminars.  In this connection, she mentioned the overall theme reflecting the universal dimension of the Holocaust and accordingly the more than 150 holocaust Outreach educational activities taking place in the month of January across 38 countries. She stressed the importance of teaching our children the importance of standing up to inequality, hate and injustice recognizing that racism and injustice are only learned and for all to embrace diversity and build a common humanity in the general sense while at the same time pointing to the fact that recently there has been a rise in persistent denial of the holocaust and the spread of hate sites on the internet moving from the margins to the center stage.  She also mentioned  Secretary General António Guterres’ messages outlining the two duties of all those concerned towards mitigating these tendencies, namely: a) remembering the lessons learned from systematic attempt to eliminate the Jewish people during the Holocaust, and b) be every watchful of the dark clouds on he horizon: anti-Semitism;  along the same lines, prepare to take action against the growing sect of Nazism.

    Ms. Kimberly Mann is then invited Ms. Sarah Kaidanow,  a granddaughter of two Holocaust survivors: Jerry and Ellen Kaidanow, to address the attendees.  Sarah Kaidanow is the NGO youth representative for the Holocaust and Human Rights Education Center (HHREC) of Westchester. According to her bio, as an actress and writer, Ms. Kaidanow is able to help share her family’s Holocaust stories through her work. Most recently, Ms. Kaidanow produced a short film, featuring her grandparents, for HHREC. She has been involved with them for the past year and is encouraged by their work to bring Holocaust education into schools and communities which might otherwise have little resources for teaching the lessons of the Holocaust.

    Ms. Kaidanow started with a video of her parents Jerry and Eilan Kaidanow talking about their experiences as Holocaust survivors.  Their message was that every one of the survivors should come forward and tell the Holocaust story “one way or another” because- in freely interpreting their words- “those who do not read history are doomed to repeat it” as an ancient philosopher said thousands of years ago.  Having said that, the survivor parents added that younger generation should carry their stories forward so that they be become witnesses to what happened and help preserve the stories forever from generation to generation. Ms. Kaidanow added that this then can be translated into Human Rights through the lens of Holocaust and applied to current events which in essence enables them to critically analyze the situation and actively pursue what can be done.  That is, to put into practice in the current circumstances what they learned from their history classes.  In other words, Ms. Kaidanow underlined as she put it, “learn from the past to protect the future.” She went on to state that workshops especially for the young are crucial in teaching how simple bullying may develop into genocidal acts if not checked.  Activism to prevent such acts are essential, she pointed out.  These approaches they teach at the Holocaust and Human Rights Education Center (HHREC) of Westchester, NY reaching almost 30,000 students by now, she added. She ended by shouting out to her grandparents and turning to the moderator and saying “So, thank you for helping me to carry on this obligation of this third-generation granddaughter to move forward with my survivor grandparents’ stories.” Moderator Ms. Mann commended her for her work and wished that more young people would follow in her foot-steps.

    Next speaker was Evelyn Sommer, the Chair of the World Jewish Congress North America.  In 1990, the American Section of the World Jewish Congress (WJC) elected Ms. Sommer as Chairman, a post she held until January 2007. During this period, she chaired the Plenary Assembly of the WJC in Jerusalem and represented the WJC at important international meetings such as the OSCE conferences on anti-Semitism in Berlin/Germany and Cordoba/Spain. Ms. Sommer is also the founding President of the Women’s International Zionist Organization (WIZO) USA and represented WIZO at the United Nations’ Economic and Social Council (ECOSOC) and its Commissions on Human Rights and on the Status of Women.

    She started by telling the core mission of the World Jewish Congress since its inception in 1943, as being “to fight anti-Semitism, racism, racial intolerance and all kinds of hatred.”  She then talked about having created a #WeRemember site on the internet where people who believed in the core mission was asked to take their pictures and post them with a sign “#WeRemember.”  At the time when they created the site, they were shooting for 6 million people to post their pictures and to their astonishment there are now 250 million people carrying on with that core mission.  Ms. Somers concluded her comments by showing a video of several survivors with ages ranging from the 90’s to one of age 113, if I remember correctly.  That video was followed by another video which showed how an El Salvador diplomat Arturo Castellanos and a Hungarian businessman Gyorgy Mandel in Switzerland helped save 25,000 Jews from the hands of Hitler from 1938 to 1944.  That act reminded me of the Turkish Diplomats in France and Turkish Consul General on the island of Rhodes helped save close to 75,000 Jews from the death camps of Germany during WW II.

    Next speaker was David J. Michaels who is the Director of United Nations and Intercommunal Affairs at B’nai B’rith International, the world’s oldest Jewish humanitarian, advocacy and social action organization. Mr. Michaels has traveled extensively and met numerous senior government and faith leaders, among them Pope Francis, United Nations Secretary-General Antonio Guterres and King Abdullah of Saudi Arabia. His work and perspectives have been featured widely in international media and he has received several awards for his professional accomplishments. Mr. Michaels trained at the Office of William Jefferson Clinton, the Foreign Ministry of Germany, the Embassy of Israel in Washington, the International Fellowship of Christians and Jews, Ha’aretz, and the Conference of Presidents of Major American Jewish Organizations.

    Mr. Michaels, grandson of a Holocaust survivor, started by giving a short history of B’nai B’rith going back 175 years or so.  He said that B’nai B’rith had a role in the forming of the United Nations and has been very vigilant in taking concrete actions against all forms of racism.  He described B’nai B’rith’s work under three categories:

    Civil society and Humanitarianism & Building Bridges between Jewish and non-Jewish entities across the world;

    1. Preserving Holocaust memory; and
    2. Combatting prejudices through educational missions across the world and “Diverse Minds” program encouraging writing books about diversity and inclusion.

    Mr. Michaels mentioned work in countries as diverse as Bulgaria, Romania, Middle East and a communal project in Cuba with emphasis on Bridge building.  Then he concluded his remarks with a video showing some examples of books written under the auspices of “Diverse Minds.”

    Last speaker was Mr. Jason Sirois. He is the Anti-Defamation League’s (ADL) Director of No Place for Hate®, where he oversees the implementation of the initiative in ADL’s 27 regional offices. Currently more than 1,600 schools participate in the No Place for Hate program across the United States. His biography states that Mr. Sirois’ objective is to expand this number to five percent of schools in the country by 2022. The program aims to create positive, sustainable change in a school environment in which students take the lead in developing a culture where respect is the norm. Mr. Jason has been a motivational speaker and trainer focused on addressing issues of bias, harassment, discrimination, and bullying in schools, communities and the workplace. His work has directly impacted millions of students and educators.

    Mr. Sirois   was introduced by moderator Ms. Mann by noting his important work in the area of creating positive and sustainable change in schools where students take on leadership in developing a culture of respecting diversity.  Mr. Sirois started by mentioning the founding of the Anti-Defamation League back in 1913 “. . . to stop the defamation of the Jewish people and secure justice and fair treatment for all.”  He noted that back then, the ADL had the insight to fight anti-Semitism through fighting all forms of bias. To go into that in a bit more detail, he talked about, what he called, Pyramid of Hate.

    The pyramid consists of five layers or levels, the bottom level representing BIAS in all of its forms of stereotyping, ridicule, belittling jokes, bullying and so on, which when unchecked will result in the next level of ACTS OF PREJUDICE, then ACTS OF DISCRIMINATION, which evolves into ACTS OF BIAS-MOTIVATED VIOLENCE resulting in GENOCIDE.

    Mr. Sirois went on to say that, when he presents this model, he is often asked at what level should one intervene, and he answers at every level.  If any one layer or level is removed, the rest of the pyramid falls, especially the bottom two layers which represent education starting from kindergarten and upwards: in other words, to live by “Never Again.”  Then Mr. Sirois discussed how education works with emphasis on Holocaust Education and equipped with words of action through an Institute, like rather than talking about the horrors of Holocaust, talk about resistance.  The key is to empower students to take leadership roles to convey “No Place for Hate.”  Mr. Sirois pointed to  www.adl.org/edcucation-and-resources where more is taught along these lines.  In the final analysis, the whole education boils down to where we are today, and what we are headed for.

    Moderator Ms. Mann thanked all the panelists before opening the floor to questions.  First question she asked Ms. Kaidanow as to how to get young people more involved in the type of education that the speakers have been putting forth. She answered by saying that, she representing the youth, can unequivocally say that millennials are really engaged in many areas.  In trying to woo them to a particular area, they must be respected, and their interest captured through innovative presentations on the social media with well-designed subject matter embedded in music as mentioned before, even hip-hop if done cleverly and nice graphics to grab attention.  Then David Michaels suggested making the social media interesting giving the example of “Milch” and it’s “I can’t keep quiet” music which apparently went viral.   Then Ms. Sommers interjected that the digital media is a must for reaching the young people.  She also gave the example of calling young leaders the title of “Young diplomats” where youth are given recognition by bestowing them with important responsibilities.  Mr. Sirois added that the adult educators should be trained to treat the students not as leaders of “tomorrow” but leaders of “today.”

    Then  Queen Mother, Queen Mother Dr. Delois Blakely,  (NGO Rep., Founder-President of The Future Foundation) -presumably well-known in the halls of the United Nations, but at least not to me since I had not met her before other than saying hello to her on the way to the auditorium– asked of Sarah Kaidanow as a millennial as to how to bridge the gap between what her daughter asks her about the “Holocaust” and the “Hellocaust” she has experienced as a black woman, I assume.  Ms. Kaidanow answered by pointing to bringing to the attention of the youth the experiences of different groups, such as of the Holocaust survivors, and by implications I believe of the black people, through pod-cast, Facebook and other digital media.

    Next a lengthy question was related to the treatment of Jews at various countries around the world, including Eastern European and Baltic countries and specifically to Ukraine.  The moderator answered by noting that last year there was a program specifically directed to the educators of Ukraine teaching them about the Holocaust and how it should be taught to school children.

    Remaining five other questions touched upon how to confront Hate and Hatred, especially in explaining to the youth within the context they are being propagated.  The panelists answered by way of reiterating the various approaches they had talked offered in their talks before. For example, Mr. David J. Michaels referred to the work of the B’nai B’rith is doing in 50 countries around the world.  Mr. Sirois referred to his model of Hate in stressing the education of people through the lens of Holocaust.  One granddaughter of a Holocaust survivor asked how to preserve their stories.  The Ms. Kaidanow mentioned that there was such a thing as “Safe-keeping Stories.”

    Another questioner wondered about how to handle hate speech under the protection of freedom of speech.  Another question was about the plight of refugees and what to do about their condition vis-à-vis their not being wanted or even hated by certain countries, may they be Jews or not.  She was informed about a UN program called “Global Compact” by way of encouraging countries to protect refugees. Before the final question, an attendee asked how to go about teaching positivity as against hatred through the arts.

    The final question was directed as to how to fight hatred when there was so much of it on the internet.  In fact, posing that question myself, as a Light Millennium NGO representative, I pointed out that in actuality the first Amendment of the United States constitution does not protect freedom of speech that promotes hatred and for that matter incitement to kill.  And yet, there are summer youth camps in this country where they incite young minds to harbor hatred and killing towards certain ethnic groups as can be found in some published books. The point was made that perhaps courts are not applying what the constitution provides.  The panel tried to answer the question by saying that we should educate youth “critical thinking” so that they would be able to overcome such incitements, and that there was really not too much “bullying” out there to give up altogether the fight through education.

    The Briefing concluded with comments from the moderator thanking the panelists for their valuable presentations and also thanking everybody for joining the Briefing.

    * * *

    Background  Information:
    One of the main lessons to be learned from the Holocaust is the need to protect the human dignity and human rights of all people, wherever they may be, regardless of their faith, ethnicity, gender or political beliefs.  Acceptance of cultural diversity, open mindedness and education for tolerance are key elements in building a world in which we live peacefully side by side our fellow human beings. Learning from the past through Holocaust remembrance and embracing these values will help prevent such acts of terror from recurring in the future. Join us for a discussion with a group of NGO experts who are working to promote Holocaust education and diversity, including: Ms. Evelyn Sommer, Chair, World Jewish Congress, North America; Sarah Kaidanow; David Michaels, Director, UN and Intercommunal Affairs, B’nai B’rith International; Jason Sirois, National Director, No Place for Hate initiative, Anti-Defamation League.
    Source: United Nations Department of Public Information | @UNDPINGORelations @UNDPINGO

  • ON THE TRAIL OF LYCIANS – ADVENTURES IN SOUTHERN TURKEY

    ON THE TRAIL OF LYCIANS – ADVENTURES IN SOUTHERN TURKEY

    cennet koyuFINAL

    TRAVEL DIARY BY BÜLENT DOĞRUYOL:
    DAY 1:

    After a quiet night’s sleep followed by a wholesome Turkish breakfast we hopped on the Dolmus and told the driver to drop us off at the start of the Lycian trail. It was early in the morning. Since the skies were overcast (a rarity in late August Fethiye, albeit a boon for trekkers) and the minibus was sparsely filled, I asked the driver what the weather was going to be like today. With disbelief in his voice at my ‘absurd’ question he turned and shot back that only God would know the answer.

    Once you get off the bus at the intersection of Ölüdeniz Road and Asagi Yasdam Road in Hisarönü, walk up Asagi Yasdam Road for about 500 m. to the start of Lycian trail, where a banner alerts you that you are at the head of the trail.
    Tip: Try to catch a dinner at the Fethiye fish market before you hit the trail.

    The paved road continues straight for appr. 1 km at the end of which keep left to pick up the unpaved footpath and you are on the Lycian trail. A resort hotel will be on your right.lklk

    The ardors of the steep climb (for abou t 3.5 km) will be more than compensated by the stunning scenery of Ölüdeniz on your right. By the way, cameras or video equipment are highly recommended. We chat with a very trim and fit-looking retired couple in their mid-sixties who are returnig to Hisarönü from a brisk walk and looking forward to their much-deserved breakfast.

    While the Mediterranen seascapes on the right take your breath away, the rugged mountain terrain on the left offers some almost other-worldly sights; precipitiously steep scars caused by rock/land slides, pine growth of beautifully varied colors, slopes cut by mountain streams into narrow lush green canyons, trees hanging onto life attached to perfectly vertical rock cliffs.

    The trail levels off after 5 km. Next we arrive at the village of Kozagac, where we replenish our water with cold, clear natural spring water at the fountainhead and strike up a conversation with an 8-year old girl named Büsra. She is proud of her family’s goats and tells us eagerly how she loves to shepherd them. The relatively flat terraın in this region is heavily carved by intense floods caused by powerful runoff from the surrounding highlands. Lone islands of sandstone held by the roots of a single tree, rising and resisting the erosive force of the meandering creeks dot the landscape.

    The trail continues with moderate difficulty marked by gentle up and downhill slopes until one reaches Kirme at km. 12, where there are 3 options for a gözleme break coupled with tea or ayran. These gözleme houses are Günbatimi, Sugar and Lemon Café. Although Sugar advertises heavily along the trail, it had a disappointing location and overall impression. Even though we opted for Lemon Café, I have to admit Günbatimi, offering a better scenery and ambiance, would be my first recommendation. Selma Hanim, the owner of Lemon Café, while treating us to her freshly made gözleme, tea and ayran, complained about the unfair advertising practices of her competitors, that they would destroy her roadside signs, undercut her prices and badmouth her. One can presume that the others might harbor similar feelings. These cafes are furnished with large and comfortable divans, cushions and pillows. They are a joy to stop in as one finds opportunities for good food as well as contact with fellow trekkers. We did exchange some tips with a young couple, which was camping along their way as we devoured the gözlemes.

    It is imperative that one is careful not to miss the trail leaving Kirme (we did and lost 30 minutes). Going downhill make a sharp right at a dried up fountain (might carry water in season) after crossing a rundown gate (but conditions change over time). It is smooth downhill thereafter as you head to Faralya.

    Shortly before Faralya the footpath merges with the paved main road, which skirts the access point to Butterfly Valley (Kelebekler Vadisi). This is a secluded bay accessible either by boat or by climbing down from the trail at this spot and does not harbor –unfortunately- butterflies anymore. It is popular with the young, hip, adventure-seeking and hitchhiking crowd. Camping is the preferred mode of stay. The 3 young hitchhikers (all college kids) we picked up on our way from Ankara to Fethiye were planning to attend a hippie music festival on this day in Kelebekler Vadisi.

    Almost all Lycian Way trekkers skip the climb down to Butterfly Valley as it is quite treacherous and time consuming. Most visitors come to this pristine inlet via boat. A few meters up the road is Keyif Motel in Faralya; definitely worth a break to enjoy a strong cup of Turkish tea on their airy terrace overlooking the Butterfly Valley and the magnificent vistas it offers.

    250 meter past Keyif Motel pick up the trail on the left hand side (right after Ottoman Gözleme Evi sign) and keep left onto the trail (ca. km. 19). Initially there will be a steep climb for about 1 km., which then levels off leading to a moderately difficult descent into Kabak village (km. 23). This part of the trail is mostly wooded offering a welcome respite from the hot sun.

    With its elevated location high on the slopes, Mama’s Restaurant, where we stayed, is a hostel type guesthouse and restaurant, which is preferred by the same young, hip and intellectual crowd that can be found in Butterfly Valley. Its veranda overlooking the breath-taking panorama of the Kabak Bay is perfect for sunset drinks or dinner. While taking in the beautiful scenery with our well-deserved drinks, we had a lengthy discussion with an older British couple about Brexit (they were pro), immigration (they were against), skyrocketing cost of living in London and other issues. They owned property in the area, where they spend their summers and were at the restaurant for dinner.

    DAY 2:

    Before leaving Kabak a few words about the village. It is an exceedingly beautiful hamlet with picturesque and secluded coves and a well-known vacation spot for insiders. One might consider arriving there early to explore or even stay for an extra day or two. Even though Mama’s Restaurant is primarily a hostel (they also offer a few private rooms), the young college crowd one meets there is very intellectual (we discussed Harari’s Sapiens and Homo Deus with some of them) gentle, respectful and totally cool; they preferred to spend the nights on the beaches or crashed on the veranda (all beds were booked, yet overnight the rooms were empty). There are also full-fledged high-end hotels and spas in Kabak.

    After a short breakfast table talk with Caner, one of the young owners (a graduate of Bosporus Univ.), about the risks and rewards of investment in tourism (next year he wants to get a sailboat and give sailing lessons to wealthy clients or move to Cambodia) we filled our water bottles at the fountain next to the hotel and broke for Alinca. At this point there are two routes to Bel, our destination for the day; the coastal path via Cennet Koyu or the Alinca route across the mountains. We were advised to skip the coastal walk due to steep, unsafe climb at the end of it. Moreover, 90% of hikers do head for Alinca.

    Be forewarned, the 7 km. trek to Alinca is one of the more challenging parts of this walk (do not attempt late in the day). It starts with an arduous, long climb, which is rewarded by glorious views of Kabak Bay. The path becomes a roller coaster of up and downhill climbs trespassing an interchanging landscape of cliffy slopes, deep gorges cut by mountain streams, green, pristine valleys covered by a growth of pines, cypress, sandal trees, bushes, wild oregano, laurel, all of which makes this strenuous walk a sheer joy. Most of this stretch is under the shadow of trees. The slopes are scarred by fierce melt-water streams carrying huge boulders down-slope into the sea.

    Before arriving in Alinca we encounter Marie & Sadik, two fellow travelers like us, but heading to Kabak in the opposite direction. Marie is from the Ukraine and Sadik from Istanbul. They are happy to learn that the rest of their path is downhill, which does not always mean a blessing (but more on this later). After sharing some of our high-calorie trail-food with them, Sadik and my hiking companion each allowed themselves a cigarette (go figure!).

    Perched on the hills of Taurus Mountains, Alinca offers outstandingly beautiful views of Cennet Koyu, a secluded, azure-blue inlet in the Mediterranean. A break was in order and we walked into a café named Catchy. An old lady met us with a warm smile and offered tea and ayran. We needed both. The sight of the blue sea from her terrace plus the beverages were simply rejuvenating. Since she told us how this place would be full of campers in season, it would be in order to say a few words about the timing of this walk.

    Ideally, one would undertake this hike in Spring (March, April, May) or Fall (Late September, October, November) when the water is abundant, flowers more colorful and fragrant, temperatures more temperate. This is one reason why we did not ebezirgan plateau1ncounter many travelers on the trail. But, in real life, not everything falls into place as one wishes all the time.

    Back on the trail again, we promptly lost it and struggled for about an hour. Better keep on the paved asphalt road for 1.5 km. and take the new Gey trail on the right (marked). Not all locals are well informed about which way the trail goes. Many of them have never been on it. Do not trust everyone giving directions. The trail is mostly well-marked by red/blue stripes painted on rocks, boulders, trees, poles, fences, etc. every so often (ca. 10 mt.). Sometimes, especially in open areas and clearings, one has to search for these signs. A large red X means that you are headed in the wrong direction, which saves time and more importantly precious energy. Good job Kate Clow! (she sends out markers to maintain the trails).

    Appr. 5 km. past Alinca you come to a fork, one going to Bel via Bogazici and Sidyma, the other via Gey. We opted to go via Gey, about 5 km. This is a clearly marked trail of low or moderate difficulty; last 3 km. is on paved roads. Once more, we were treated to amazingly beautiful scenery of pristine inlets with rolling green, pine-covered hills into the Mediterranean. On the flat stretches where fields were being cultivated agriculturally one can see an occasional cistern to store water in rainy season to be used in summer months.

    In Gey we took another break next to a farm with cows, goats and a donkey keeping us company, before breaking for the last leg of our trek to Bel, ca. 6 km. Water is obviously the most precious commodity during such a hike, but there is ample opportunity to replenish. Thus a 2 or 3 lt. bottle would be sufficient.

    After a steep climb with more vistas of stunning beauty we arrived in Bel. Bel is a very small village of 20-25 dwellings. Fatma Abla’s Pansiyon is the only game in town. She and her husband Osman offer a basic dinner, 5-6 rooms with private shower and bathroom and a hearty breakfast for a decent price, which is all one needs and thankful for. Rooms are clean although water pressure in the shower is feeble; there is no wi-fi, erratic phone service, but maybe that is a blessing. Beer is available.

    Such stays are welcome chances for social interaction with people of different regions. Sometimes other villagers stop by to chat with visitors and break their routine. We learn about the bickering, jealousy among them, how some are planning competing guesthouses like Fatma’s, how she had been reported to the tax collector’s office and had been cited for violations related to running a business. All issues much too commonly seen in a budding business environment.

    DAY 3:

    Since the village people are early risers the two of us took advantage of it and ate a relatively early breakfast with local ingredients. It is advisable to get an early start during such walks so that one gets to the final destination early enough to explore the surroundings there; because they almost always have exciting things to discover, i.e. beaches, historic sites, caves, etc. (not to mention avoid being on the trail after darkness sets in). Considering the moderate difficulty level of the Lycian Way and assuming a daily average of 20 km. (for amateur hikers like me), one should be able to tackle it within 7-8 hours (average 3 km. per hour).

    The first 4-5 km. was easy terrain under the shade of tall trees, a real treat. Little did we know that this was a prelude to a daunting test of our stamina. Then followed a deviously high gradient descent. It took us almost 5 hours to negotiate a hair-raisingly steep slope of less than 2 km. The terrain consisted of rocks overgrown with spots of typical Mediterranean bushes (maki). Do not attempt this in wet weather since the rock surfaces will be treacherously slippery. Watch out for loose rocks. Things can get precarious in a heartbeat if you loose concentration. This is one occasion where I was thankful to have walking sticks with me.

    A few words about the equipment would be in order here. Some participants opt to hit the trail without any hiking poles or with only one pole. I strongly suggest that you use both sticks. Even on even terrain I found them to help me glide faster and with less effort. Since the trail provides ample opportunity for water and accommodation, unless one is a camping aficionado, pack light. Good grade hiking shoes with hard soles are a must (preferably ½ or 1 size larger than normal size), UV grade hat (in summer) is good. I found that in summer long pants are not necessary (bushes are tolerable and no bug problems). T-shirts, shorts, socks and one warm sweatshirt for cooler nights on higher plateaus is all one needs. Food is also plenty available in villages and towns one crosses. No need to carry any.

    You will get blisters on your toes or soles; soothing or anti-inflammatory ointment might be helpful. I learned to live with them.

    The upside of this sharp, tricky slope was that it overlooked and rolled into another one of these unspoiled, deep blue coves of breathtaking beauty. In the distance one could spot and hear mountain goats gazing at us.

    This is the only spot where water supply is scarce. After the sharp descent the trail levels off and after a few km. runs into a small collection of disorganized houses named Gavuragili. Although there are 2 guesthouses, they were closed since August was low season. Having depleted our water supply during the infamous descent, we were desperate for water and knocked on a few doors to no avail. Almost panicky we finally arrived at a construction site for a large modern building and gained access by unlocking the main gate. Gathering all the calmness we could muster to allay a menacing Kangal suddenly appearing in front of us, we heard the saving calls of the attendant.

    He graciously offered to help, supplied us with water and even offered hot tea. It turns out this place did not have any water supply of its own which was hauled from nearby towns. He recounted to us how he encountered exhausted tourists, hallucinating and near collapse due to dehydration. Even cases where he had to collect unconscious hikers, domestic and foreign, from the trails in the dark who had lost orientation.

    From here on it is mostly flat terrain and the trail mostly merges with or follows paved main roads. The area is teeming with ruins from antiquity, Pydnai, Letoon and Xanthos are all in this region, greater Kumluova coastal plains formed by the deltas of Esen (Xanthos), Özlen and other smaller rivers all emptying into the Mediterranean Sea. Mineral rich deposits of these rivers have pushed the original Lycian coastline into Mediterranean by several km. creating a rich agricultural delta where greenhouses dominate the flat landscape.

    We checked into Özlen Pansiyon. This is a larger guesthouse with a full-scale restaurant located on a scenic creek (Özlen). The owner, Hasan Balaban, is a jovial, gregarious, but also street-smart person always after maximizing his profit. Do not eat fish there and if you need alcohol, stick with beer. The rooms are clean and the ambiance is pleasant.

    Hasan Bey offered to drive us to the ancient ruins of Letoon and Xanthos, which we accepted, since these areas are all urbanized and trails use the main roads. Of the two locations, Xanthos is the more interesting one and served as the capital of the Lycians. The ruins are mostly from the Roman times, built on top or the side of existing Greek structures and there is very little left of the original Lycian civilization.

    DAY 4:

    Again, due to the flat and urban nature of the region we transferred to Cavdir by car and picked up our trail at the Cavdir Municipal Cemetery. It runs right through the cemetery. The trail overlooks the Kumova (Letoon) coastal plain, which is almost totally covered by greenhouses interspaced by open green areas; a sea of off-white/gray greenhouse roofs. Lycian Way arcs 180 degrees around this delta from one end of Patara Beach to the other end. Patara Beach, from Karadere to Gelemis, is one of the longest and most beautiful beaches in the entire world.

    The mountains on the left offer modest height and variation. The trail is poorly marked at some critical spots and one is hard pressed to remain on the right track. This happens when it has to negotiate its way around private properties, such as fields or orchards and one has to pan out right or leveft to search for it. It is of low to modest difficulty merging with paved vehicle roads on occasion. Low growth bushes and olive groves dot the landscape. There is little shade in this section.

    This is the only part where long pants or tights might come handy lest one risks scratches or bruises below knee level due to thorny bushes and flexing branches. This should not pose serious problems for sturdy tough guys, but ladies concerned with their beach appearance should take notice, because today’s trek ends at the beach.

    There is ample opportunity to fresh water in Üzümlü (Inpinar) with its cold clean mountain water. Before Üzümlü a family on the outskirts of the village offered us tea and refreshments with some delicious gözleme. An extended chat with several members gave us insights into their lives where younger members strived to leave for bigger cities whereas older members labored to support the family through agriculture.

    Üzümlü is a large village with well-stocked markets and pide joints. There are several guesthouses as well. From Üzümlü to Akbel it is a relatively easy hike, again, dominated by the Kumluova plain and large expanses of the Mediterranean Sea. On the left, the mountain landscape has a relatively tame and eroded look. By the way, the geology of the entire Lycian Way is dominated by calcium carbonate based limestone. The climbs and descents of this segment are mild and manageable.

    Since our plan was to explore Patara Beach area a bit more, we booked our rooms in Gelemis at Neptun Pansiyon. The owner Fatma Hanim picked us up in Akbel for a short ride to Gelemis. Perched at the top of a hill overlooking the town and the sea, Neptun Pansiyon is the place to stay in Gelemis. The air is clean, sunsets are beautiful, her homemade food is delicious, the rooms are clean, wi-fi is available, and everything one needs for a pleasant stay is there.

    We were able to see the ancient Patara ruins, stroll to the beach where Carretta turtles are cared for. Above all we were treated to one of the most fascinating shows of nature. We climbed up to the top of Kumlutepe, a high sand bank on the outskirts of the beach, where tons of mostly foreign visitors settled in to watch a once in a lifetime sunset. This is another spot on the trail where one could contemplate staying an extra day or two to enjoy the beach and entertainment the area has to offer. Besides the town of Gelemis, Kalkan, which is a major tourist destination, is also nearby.

    Since this part of the trail lacks spectacular vistas, for visitors who are more inclined to explore historic sites and enjoy beaches, it might be preferable to transfer at the end of day 3 (skip Özlen Pansiyon) from Letoon/Xanthos area directly to Gelemis/Kalkan for a stay at Neptun Pansiyon

    DAY 5:

    Following another hearty breakfast with wonderful scenery Fatma Hanim dropped us off in Bezirgan, where we picked up the trail. Bezirgan is a pretty village with old, but well maintained, pretty stone houses. On the west edge of the village one can visit the collection of grain storage houses. These are small, 2-story wooden shacks designed to keep the vermin away from wheat and the concept goes back to Roman days (emperor Hadrian). The village with neat houses is located within a flat basin plain high above sea level surrounded by Taurus Mountains.

    At the top of a nearby hill overlooking the village we met Ali Riza Bey, an older gentleman passing his time in a small, cool rest area that he designed and created years ago. It features flower beets, a fountainhead that delivers sweet spring water from the highlands, several tall trees providing much needed shade; in short an oasis on the otherwise treeless environment. He talks about this little park as his life’s work in spiritual terms providing comfort to passers by and thus finding serenity for his soul. He is a man that the world needs more of.

    After a moderate descent one arrives at the outskirts of Saribelen; 7 km. between Bezirgan and Saribelen. We pick up the trail in Saribelen, but promptly experience difficulty following it, since again the markings are erratic. Saribelen is a green hamlet seated on the slopes of a hill and while walking downhill through it, we were flagged by Dursun Bey, who asked us to sit with him for a few minutes. It turns out that we both knew someone with whom he served time in prison many years ago. He said it was a dumb youthful mistake that landed him there. Once again, my hiking companion and Dursun Bey shared the joy! of smoking.

    We hit the trail to Gökceören (13 km. from Saribelen), which was our destination for the day. Now we were trespassing high plateaus with other-worldly rock formations, some of which reminded me of the alien planets in Startrek episodes. At this point a small hint might be useful. I observe hikers who keep walking for extended periods only looking down on the path. Resist the feeling of putting your head down and staring at the trail for minutes on at a time. Instead, frequently, take time to survey the surroundings and take in the vistas.

    This was easy terrain with mild undulations , some bushes and occasional goat herds. We searched unsuccessfully for attending shepherds, but later learned that nomads (Yörük) and semi-settled nearby villagers leave the herds for weeks unattended to graze. We were thankful that there were also no dogs herding and guarding the flocks, except for one occasion where one started to charge us, but discouraged by our yelling and standing firm. He nevertheless followed us for a while until he was sure we posed no danger for the herd.

    At about km. 9 a small oasis in the middle of this flat basin (Saribelen Yaylasi) popped up surrounded by fig trees and featuring a water-well under a huge oak tree; even buckets were provided. Despite fears of contagions (we joked about whose immune system is more robust), we could not resist drawing water from the well and quenching our thirst with it. It was sweet, fresh and cold. We kept munching on definitely organic, fresh, fragrant and sweet figs picked right from the trees.

    Appr. 2 km. further we came across a Yurt, a nomadic dwelling, a mixture of tent and wooden shack, where the owner of the house, Samiye Hanim, invited us in. She offered us a much welcome break featuring cold ayran with herbs (otlu yörük ayrani), fresh figs, and watermelon. She told us stories of foreign tourists visiting her home, showed picture after picture of group photos taken with visitors from all over the world; Australia, Canada, the US, UK, Japan, most European countries. Many mailed these photos with notes to her after their return to their home countries. There were engineers, chief physicians of hospitals, president of the top Swiss administrative court, and many other accomplished people. It was an amazing experience to listen to her.

    She also put us at ease by mentioning that they also get their water from the well we had just visited. As this part of the trek was on a flat plateau, we asked her why they were not cultivating the land. It was impossible due to destructive nightly activities of wild pigs. One can observe traces of their presence along the entire Lycian Way.

    The last portion of this trail was dominated by exceptionally beautiful sights of the Mediterranean coastline near Kas, dotted by green islands, small and big. These almost never ending vistas take one’s breath away.

    2-3 km. before Gökceören there seem to be remnants of ancient (Lycian?) settlements destroyed presumably by earthquakes. They are not directly on the trail, but only a few meters left of the trail. This area holds great promise for any future archeological exploration. Again, the hike is an easy one on flat terrain with rare occasional trees. There were a few cartographers surveying the land from my hometown Denizli. Another excuse for a short break.

    A final descent took us to Gökceören, a relatively well-to-do village, whose inhabitants sold their plots along the Kas coastline to developers. This income enabled the them to build neatly designed, modern houses with cars in the driveways.

    The only accommodation in this village is run by a shady character, who engages in price gouging (heard from other sources and experienced myself). Very basic food, no wi-fi, sporadic phone service (only one operator), insufficient water pressure for shower, no water to flush toilet in the morning. Make sure to agree on pricing of meals and accommodation ahead of time. There might be a recent competitor guesthouse to him.

    Bülent Dogruyol, Brooklyn, NY

  • Boxing: Gassiev defeats Dorticos in semi-final showdown

    Murat Gassiev defeats Yunier Dorticos by vicious 12th round KO which could be a candidate for KO of the year. The fight was a part of the world boxing super series tournament, the second leg of the semi-final round (the first of which was won by Usyk). Murat Gassiev will take on Oleksandr Usyk in the final, which will take place in May in Jeddah, Saudi Arabia.

    The final of this tournament is promised to be a spectacular event with many fans from all over the world looking to book their tickets as soon as they become available. This featured bout is anticipated to live up to expectations as both fighters have proven their worth by defeating their previous adversaries in impressive fashion. Usyk is known as a boxer puncher who will be looking to use agility and quick footwork to outbox his opponent. Gassiev on the other hand is a KO artist who has knocked out 70% of the opponents he has faced. He will be looking to press the action, come forward and apply measured aggression.

    Whatever the outcome, this night should be one to remember and one not to be missed.

  • Russia’s Syria Congress is over: what’s next?

    Russia’s Syria Congress is over: what’s next?

    Syria CongressThe Syrian National Dialogue Congress held in Russia’s Sochi on January 28-29 was aimed to boost the process for building a peaceful future for Syrian people in a war-devastated country and to define the country’s political compass for the next years. The Congress, sponsored by Russia, Iran and Turkey, gathered over 1,500 participants from various groups of Syrian society, including representatives from political parties, opposition groups and ethnic and confessional communities.

    While the Congress itself did not aim to achieve the immediate political reconciliation over Syria, its main focus was to revive Geneva talks. According to Russia’s Foreign Minister Sergey Lavrov, the forum was expected to “create conditions for staging fruitful Geneva process”.

    Besides, the Congress was some kind of alert to boycotting countries and their procrastination to reinforce the 2254 UN Security Council Resolution for Peace Process in Syria, adopted in 2015. According to the resolution, the future of Syria should be determined by its people. However, the country has experienced forced intervention and external interference that prevented it from paving ways for a peaceful future ever since.

    Ironically it may seem, the so-called peace process for Syria that has been joined by many countries pursuing different strategies including diametrically opposite approaches of Russia and the United States, became a fruitful soil for radically oriented groups that eroded the country’s sovereignty. The delay in reinforcing the 2254 UN Security Resolution by international community can lead to further monetization of Syria’s natural resources by terrorist organizations and cause major security threats for the entire international community.

    1185811Perhaps, the most important result of the Sochi Congress has been an agreement of all participants to consolidate their efforts in stabilizing the Syria’s future and to secure the territorial integrity of the Syrian Arab Republic. The concerns of the Syrian opposition claiming the Sochi Congress would, on the contrary, hazard the international peace process could not be more baseless since the Congress was supported by the UN, the main sponsor of the Geneva talks.

  • Turkey woman who recognizes Armenian Genocide is elected main opposition party Istanbul chapter head

    Turkey woman who recognizes Armenian Genocide is elected main opposition party Istanbul chapter head

    image001

    Canan Kaftancıoğlu, who has been elected as head of the Istanbul Province Chapter of main parliamentary opposition Republican People’s Party (CHP) of Turkey, has been targeted by the pro-government media.

    Turkish pro-government media and representatives of the authorities have launched a smear campaign against Kaftancıoğlu, in the press and on social media.

    One of the main accusations made against her is that she recognized Armenian Genocide, by means of Twitter, on April 24, 2012, the anniversary day of this tragedy.

    “Today in history: Armenian Genocide started,” Canan Kaftancıoğlu had tweeted on that day. “We commemorate our murdered Armenian citizens, at 19:15 at Taksim [Square in Istanbul].”

  • Turkish civilians arm themselves ahead of crucial 2019 polls

    Turkish civilians arm themselves ahead of crucial 2019 polls

    Article Summary
    As a critical election cycle looms next year, alarm is growing in Turkey over individual armament, especially in pro-government quarters where some have formed dubious groups and openly called on peers to arm themselves.

    ANKARA, Turkey — Just two days after the failed coup attempt of July 15, 2016, Turkish presidential adviser Seref Malkoc said on public television that the government should make it easier for citizens to obtain licensed guns to “protect their right to self-defense against coup attempts.” His words failed to generate much debate in the heat of the events, which had claimed the lives of more than 200 civilians among the crowds that took to the streets to resist the putschists.

    Then on Dec. 24, 2017, the government issued a legislative decree that granted judicial immunity to civilians involved in the suppression of the coup attempt, ensuing events and acts of terrorism. Alarmed by the vague wording of the provision, opposition parties argued that such immunity would encourage the formation of militia groups and individual armament, warning of uncontrollable consequences and even a civil war.

    Some believe the provision is a sign that President Recep Tayyip Erdogan plans to create his own armed militia force as another means to suppress dissent and opposition. Of note, retired Brig. Gen. Adnan Tanriverdi — the head of SADAT, a controversial military consultancy and training company — had joined Erdogan’s team of senior advisers weeks after the coup attempt. Besides SADAT, other entities supportive of the ruling Justice and Development Party (AKP) — such as the Ottoman Hearths, a youth organization, and the People’s Special Forces (HOH), an association founded by a former special forces soldier — have stoked public apprehension. Several months after the coup attempt, the head of the Ottoman Hearths 1453 association had appealed on social media to like-minded “brothers” to “arm themselves in the name of the motherland, the [Turkish] flag and Erdogan.” According to Veli Agbaba, the deputy chair of the main opposition Republican People’s Party (CHP), entities such as SADAT and the Ottoman Hearths are the armed militia of the AKP.

    Amid growing outcry over the impunity legislation, SADAT denied it was involved in covert military training camps for civilians, insisting it was a law-abiding defense consultancy company, the first of its kind in Turkey. According to a Jan. 4 statement, images of armed combat on the SADAT website date back to the pre-retirement days of former soldiers who are now working for the company.

    In a country already sharply polarized and mired in political tensions, those dubious entities coupled with an uncontrolled trend in individual armament are the source of deepening apprehension in light of an election cycle looming next year, including crucial presidential polls. Earlier this month, former Interior Minister Meral Aksener, who in October founded her own party to challenge Erdogan, spoke of concerns that “those [armed] people will play a role in the elections. … They will provoke chaos if the results are unfavorable [to the government].”

    Erdogan, for his part, seems bent on a strategy of ratcheting up tensions ahead of the elections. He has drawn the Nationalist Action Party (MHP) to his side and portrays the AKP-MHP alliance as the true patriots while maligning the other parties. In a Jan. 9 speech in parliament, he described next year’s elections as a race between “those who are native and national and those whose reins are in the hands of other quarters.”

    Senior CHP member Yasemin Oney Cankurtaran believes the judicial immunity clause is encouraging individual armament and violence between people of opposing political views. Speaking in the eastern city of Van on Jan. 11, she said, “[The decree] will lead to an individual armament craze because it has caused grave concern among people about their future. … Some people we talk to say they would not even utter the word ‘gun’ in the past but are now thinking about acquiring guns. The responsibility lies with the AKP, which has left no peace in the country. And [the immunity clause in] the legislative decree is coming on top of all this.”

    Besides the increase in individual armament, there is mounting concern over the apparent ease with which people are able to obtain unlicensed weapons. The murder of 17-year-old Helin Palandoken in October is a case in point. The high school student was shot dead by a lovelorn young man who had purchased his pump rifle online. Many internet sites have come to sell new and second-hand guns at rather cheap prices, complete with shipping and cash-on-delivery services.

    The Interior Ministry denies that individual armament is on the rise, arguing that the number of license applications has actually fallen. Regarding online sales, the ministry says it has tightened controls and penalized 55 internet sites.

    In a statement in late December, the Directorate General of Security said license applications in 2017 stood at 73,038 as of December, down from 84,268 in 2016, 100,836 in 2015 and 78,332 in 2014. The statement put the total number of licensed weapons in the country at 706,877, owned by both public servants and ordinary citizens.

    According to the police’s 2017 report on individual armament, licensed firearms were used in 25,547 criminal incidents last year, while the number of crimes committed with unlicensed guns was more than six times higher, standing at 159,123. This figure alone indicates how easy it has become to obtain guns illegally.

    In short, the essential problem lies in the scale of illegal armament and the authorities’ failure to control the illegal trade of firearms and thus their inability to identify and track the owners of such weapons. Hence, the decrease in license applications could be seen as a sign that individual armament has increasingly shifted to the illicit realm, with more and more people unwilling to be registered as gun owners.

    The Umut Foundation, the leading campaigner against individual armament in Turkey, estimates that the number of individual guns in the country stands at 25 million, and 85% of them are unlicensed and illicit. Ayhan Akcan, a board member of the foundation, said the online sale of firearms has spiraled out of control and calls for urgent measures.

    In remarks to the BBC Turkish service earlier this month, Akcan argued that the judicial immunity clause for civilians was a recipe for bloodshed. The coup attempt, he observed, has resulted in “an incredible atmosphere of fear and insecurity,” leading many to advocate the armament of civilians. “This is very dangerous,” he said, warning of “uncontrolled and risky” groups with a “swollen ego” who “see themselves as close to the government and the state or the owners of this state.” According to Akcan, those groups could take courage from the immunity clause to engage in political violence. “The government must not provide grounds for that,” he said, stressing that the scope of the clause should be narrowed or “there could be massacres on an incredible scale.”

    Turkey is no stranger to political violence and civil strife. The lead-up to the 1980 military coup saw deadly clashes between leftist and rightist groups, and in 1978, rightist mobs attacked Alevis and leftists in Kahramanmaras, massacring more than 100 people. In recent years, Alevi homes have been marked in a chain of incidents in various cities, sparking fears of similar attacks. The armament trend, coupled with the impunity clause and mounting political tensions, is further stoking the fears.

    Last week, the Interior Ministry launched a probe into HOH, but few expect the move to result in sanctions. Despite the public outcry and the warnings of jurists, the government has refused to back down from the impunity clause for civilians. In this atmosphere, apprehension is growing over the security of the polls next year. Many appear convinced that Erdogan “will do anything” to hold on to power — even if he loses the elections.

    Found in: Armed militias

    Zülfikar Doğan began his career in journalism in 1976 at the Yanki news magazine in Ankara. He has worked as a reporter, news editor, representative and columnist at Milliyet, Posta, Aksam, Finansal Forum, Star and Karsi newspapers, and as a TV programmer and commentator on the economy and politics for TRT-1, Star, NTV and CNBC-e. He is currently editor in chief and columnist at the Korhaber news site.

    •  =================================
      ================================

      The Erdogan regime supporters are looking more and more like the American KKK at its height

      In Zimbabwe Mugabe has his “war veterans” steal farms and engage in violence for anyone one getting in their way

      In Rwanda the Hutus had the interahamwe to slaughter anyone who got in their way as they committed genocide

      The level of regime sponsored oppression in Turkey is clearly creating disturbing parallels