Category: Culture/Art

  • ‘Istanbul’: A Twisted Tale Of Foreign Espionage

    ‘Istanbul’: A Twisted Tale Of Foreign Espionage

    The big war is over, and the Cold War has just begun. Leon Bauer, an American tobacco man, wonders how to fit into this new world.

    9781439156414 customBauer and his wife, Anna, a German Jew, made it to Istanbul just before World War II began. With his U.S. passport and fluency in German and Turkish, the tobacco man became useful to allied intelligence.

    But before he picks up a more peaceful life, Bauer is given a last big job. He’s supposed to slip Alexi, a Romanian defector with important Soviet secrets, out of Istanbul. Alexi’s secrets might help old allies — but the defector once helped massacre Jews in Romania.

    Bauer is being asked to help a man in this new war who represents what he fought in the last one.

    The storied, intricate, contradictory city of Istanbul is a fitting backdrop for Joseph Kanon’s new book, Istanbul Passage. Kanon tells NPR’s Scott Simon that he set the novel in Istanbul after visiting as a tourist. “I fell in love with it and thought this would be a great excuse for coming back again and again to do research,” he says.

    Interview Highlights

    On the city of Istanbul as a protagonist in the novel

    “Istanbul was, in a sense, how the book started. But the larger answer, of course, is that the period that particularly interests me, which is the war and the immediate aftermath — it had long been known for derring-do and intrigue — but during our time it had become a neutral city, right on the fringe of the war, and as a result, it was a magnet for spies. It was one of those places where Germans and Russians and British could actually meet in somebody’s drawing room — all during the war. It was, in essence, all a kind of Casablanca. But now that time is coming to an end.”

    On how Kanon’s novels are inspired by places

    “It’s really the place. It began with Los Alamos, and I went there as a tourist and became so intrigued and fascinated, and I wanted to know what it was like to have been one of the scientists — what was it like to be part of the Manhattan Project. And one thing leads to another; Berlin fascinated me because of the American occupation about which I knew relatively little, and I wanted to know more. So you follow your interests. Once you saturate yourself in the place and its layering of history, the characters suggest themselves; and once you have the characters, then you’re there.”

    On Leon Bauer’s transition to a tobacco man

    “To have been an expatriate businessman at that period had a fair amount of money and glamour attached to it. It was interesting to have lived in Istanbul for Leon. The job wasn’t drudgery. He wasn’t dragging himself to the office every day. It was fairly easy. There was almost that neo-colonial life that the European community was leading in Istanbul. And it had its pleasures; he enjoyed it. What he didn’t want, particularly, was to be transferred back to Raleigh into a cubicle or what would then have been a small office.”

    On loyalties and compromise

    Joseph Kanon is also the author of Los Alamos, The Prodigal Spy and The Good German.

    Atria Books

    Joseph Kanon is also the author of Los Alamos, The Prodigal Spy and The Good German.

    “I mean, I find that ultimately what you want to talk about is: How do we live? How do we make these moral choices, and where do we draw the personal line of your own moral limits? In this particular instance, I wanted to set up a situation for him early on where he has a choice, but both choices seem to him wrong — whatever you do isn’t right. What do you do in that kind of situation? And I find that it’s more and more this sense of moral compromise, [and it’s] very much part of the world that we’ve inherited.

    “You know, people often say, ‘Why write about this period?’ And I think the immediate postwar period is the beginning of our time. If we want to use a movie metaphor for it: The world begins with the black and white clarity of Casablanca. You know where you’re at. It’s romantic. Ingrid Bergman walks in and looks wonderful, and things are very clear. But the war ends with The Third Man and the kind of muddied, gray moral compromise that I think really was the world that it ushered in, and the world that we’ve inherited.”

    On being called the next Graham Greene

    “I think it’s a flattering comparison, and you know you could be compared to other thriller writers, but I think it’s being said — when people pigeonhole you this way — is that there’s a certain level of seriousness, of purpose, I hope of fine writing.”

    On moral reasoning and making bargains

    “We all tell each other stories so we can understand more of the variety of experience that’s around us, because we’re going to have to make these decisions. I think day by day — often we’re taking them in very small steps; they’re not certainly as dramatic or highlighted as they would be in this sort of novel, which is one of the reasons we have these novels. But we’re nevertheless making them all of the time ourselves. We’re always making personal, moral decisions.”

    via ‘Istanbul’: A Twisted Tale Of Foreign Espionage : NPR.

  • AUKAA Yalli dance to be held in London

    AUKAA Yalli dance to be held in London

    YalliWe are pleased to invite you to AUKAA Yalli dance to be held in London on 28 May 2012! AUKAA will conduct this cultural event with support of the Council on state support to NGOs under the President of Azerbaijan on the occasion of Republican Day of Azerbaijan.

    Venue: King’s College, London , “Henriette Raphael Room”.
    Time: 18.00-20.00, 28 May (Monday).

    Your help: please help us to identify 10-15 person in London who are ready to learn basic yalli dance during 26-28 May and perform at the event of 28 May. Please feel free to forward this mail to your friends and also come and bring your friends with you, event is open for public!

    For details please contact Zaur Allahverdizade at zaurazeri220@yahoo.com or Emel Ozturk at emel_oztr@hotmail.com (our coordinator based in London).

  • Turkey, Greece bridge cultural gap with romance

    Turkey, Greece bridge cultural gap with romance

    Romance and “clandestine relationships” between ordinary Greeks and Turks is again the vehicle for another big-budget Turkish romantic comedy. The theme is far from uncommon in real life.

    By Menekse Tokyay and HK Tzanis for Southeast European Times in Istanbul and Athens — 21/05/12

    ”]"Iki Yaka Bir Ismail" (Two Shores, One Ismail), the new Turkish romance series tackles the theme of mixed marriages. [ATV channel]“Iki Yaka Bir Ismail” (Two Shores, One Ismail), the new Turkish romance series — shot on location on the eastern Aegean island of Lesvos (Mytilene) and in Aivali, across from the island in Turkey — was released earlier this month.

    Playing on the theme of mixed marriage — this time between a Turkish fisherman and Greek island divorcee — it follows the wildly popular Turkish series “Yabanci Dama” (Foreign Groom), which debuted in 2004.

    “For me, [mixed marriage] is no longer a taboo — I know of many Greeks now married to Turkish women, and quite a few Turkish men married to Greek wives. They live here in Mytilene, several in Aivali, in Larissa [in central Greece], everywhere,” according to actress Eleni Filini, one of the protagonists in the new series and a former beauty queen in the 1980s.

    Take the real life couple of Aslihan Ozkara and Nikos Dimos, who met at a party a few years ago in Istanbul. In August 2008, the couple married in a surprise wedding held in the same Bosporus metropolis.

    Ozkara told SETimes the fact that she and her husband hailed from different ethnic backgrounds meant nothing, as they are very similar as individuals.

    Contrary to expectations, the marriage was well-received by their respective families.

    “Probably because our families had lived abroad for a long time and were used to such mixed marriages, so it wasn’t perceived as something unusual,” she explained, adding that her husband’s family is also the product of a mixed marriage.

    “So we, in a sense, continued a tradition. Nikos’ father was Greek and his mother Turkish. So, we didn’t see any weird reaction,” Ozkara said.

    She added, however, that their marriage helped overcome certain latent and deeply rooted prejudices in their immediate social circles. “Through our marriage we tried to establish a bridge between these two cultures; to know each other and to understand each other in better ways,” she said.

    Another successful “love story” from both sides of the Aegean is the Tsitselikis-Ozgunes family.

    Meric Ozgunes and Constantinos Tsitselikis met at a Greek-Turkish civic dialogue workshop and currently live in the northern Greek city of Thessaloniki.

    “Our respective nationalities definitely did not lead us to have a negative perception [of each other]. We were already involved in Turkish-Greek issues and open to dialogue; and a lot more than our nationalities united us. We were, in any case, against nationalism and cherished multi-culturalism,” Ozgunes told SETimes.

    The couple was married during an official wedding ceremony in 2005, conducted in both Turkish and Greek, in Thessaloniki. As the parents of young children, they have neither baptised the children in the Orthodox Christian faith or ceremoniously circumcised them, as per the Muslim ritual.

    “We will leave this decision to their will,” Ozgunes explained.

    Asked about reactions towards the marriage, Tsitselikis said both families were very respectful of their decision, with the only queries coming from acquaintances or neighbours, who asked about the ubiquitous issue of religion.

    “We had to face questions regarding what religion our children would have, if we were to have any,” he said.

    Tsitselikis and Ozgunes said they believe the impact of such marriages can only be measured on their immediate social and professional circles.

    “It definitely allowed some people around us, such as relatives and neighbours, to come into contact with the ‘other’, to put flesh and bone to a ‘Turk’ or a ‘Greek’, and therefore, it helped break certain stereotypes,” Ozgunes explained.

    Ayse Gunduz Hosgor, an expert on mixed marriages from the Ankara-based Middle East Technical University, underlined that mixed marriages are a contributing factor to integration for at least one of the two partners.

    “When we discuss mixed marriages amongst different ethnicities, the level of education and professional sophistication are determinants in laying the groundwork for potential partners [of different cultures] to meet each other,” Hosgor told SETimes.

    Nevertheless, she also pointed to the importance of religion when assessing the sustainability of such marriages.

    Beyond the interest generated by real life mixed marriages, “Iki Yaka Bir Ismail” is already generating a tourism boon on Lesvos via a cascade of reservations by Turkish tourists, according to travel agency owner Aris Lazaris, who helped co-ordinate the series’ shooting on the large island, which the locals call Mytilene, after the name of the capital city.

    “We went from hell in the off-season, due to the repercussions of the economic crisis and cancellations of reservations by foreign tour operators, to our phones ringing off the hooks,” the Mytilene entrepreneur said.

    This content was commissioned for SETimes.com.

    via Turkey, Greece bridge cultural gap with romance (SETimes.com).

  • Turkish Actors Protest State Control of Theaters

    Turkish Actors Protest State Control of Theaters

    Dorian Jones

    May 21, 2012

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    Protestors carry banner that reads “O Sultan, take your hands off theaters,” May Day rally, Ankara, Turkey, May 1, 2012.

    ISTANBUL – Hundreds of actors and supporters of free expression recently demonstrated in the heart of Istanbul against what they call growing political control of the country’s municipal and state theaters.

    Istanbul City Theater sparked controversy with its April 2012 production of Daily Obscene Secrets by Chilean playwright Marco Antonio de la Parra.

    Conservative media outlets condemned the play as “vulgarity at the hands of the state,” after which Istanbul Mayor Kadir Topbas, a member of the ruling AK Party, promptly transferred control of what is produced by municipal theaters to his administration.

    Despite the protests that followed, Prime Minister Recep Tayyip Erdogan quickly backed his mayor in an address to party supporters in which he accused actors and producers of being elitists who look down on their own people by creating their own areas for power and profit.

    “Those involved in theater stand outside the bars with a whiskey glass in their hand, an all-knowing attitude, and insult the people without producing anything,” he said.

    If state theaters need government support, he added, then government should decide what plays are produced, and then warned that he is considering privatizing the country’s 58 state theaters.

    A History of State Control

    Turkey’s tradition of state-financed theaters dates to the formation of the republic in 1923, when the policy was seen as a way to further the Westernization of society.

    State theaters are subsidized with $63 million annually, and each year about 5,000 performances enjoy strong attendance.

    But that support has led many Turkish Muslims to view theaters with suspicion.

    In the Taksim area of central Istanbul, the heart of the city’s vibrant entertainment district, some voice concern about Prime Minister Erdogan’s tough stance and a rekindling of fears about the Islamic roots of his party.

    “There is no soul of the conservatism in the art,” said one individual. “Art is not conservative. Art is freedom, art is self-expression. If you conserve our past, we cannot live in the nowadays.”

    “Art must be independent,” said another. “I believe he will understand his mistakes.”

    Increased Fines, Bans

    The latest dispute, however, is not an isolated event.

    Despite popularity among Turkish viewers, “Behazat c,” a hit television show about a hard-drinking, womanizing police detective, has caught the attention of Deputy Prime Minister Bülent Arınç, who has slammed the program and warned that he is “closely monitoring it.”

    Fines and temporary bans of other TV programs for breaking the state regularity board’s morality code have soared in the past year.

    Since the Islamic-rooted AK Party came to power a decade ago, fears have persisted it will threaten the country’s secular way of life. After a third successive AK Party election victory last year, Zaman Today newspaper columnist Cengiz Aktar said there is now reason to be concerned.

    “The prime minister now is feeling so confident and so sure of [the party’s] endless power, that [he] is now giving a signal of overall social engineering, which ends up remodeling the cultural, social, religious, and linguistic futures of Turkish society,” said Aktar. “Turkish society is a very heterogeneous society, and he has in his mind a very homogenous Turkish society.”

    Turkey’s Ministry of Culture has denied such accusations, saying artistic and cultural life in Turkey will in no way go backward.

    Despite such proclamations, the controversy is fueling concerns about the prime minister’s style of leadership and the direction the country is heading.

    via Turkish Actors Protest State Control of Theaters.

  • Real Turkish Coffee in Istanbul

    Real Turkish Coffee in Istanbul

    Two young men stood about 15 feet apart on a sunny narrow street in the Kadikoy market, chafing in their brown lab coats. The one tending to a handful of white marble tables barked “buyrun!” (roughly, “come and get it!”) at passersby, the other quietly wiped down seven or eight black marble tables.

    fazilbey

    The black tables – the ones in front of the veteran Fazil Bey Kahvesi – used to be white until they were replaced when a gaggle of upstart neighboring cafes put out their own white tables, presumably hoping to siphon off some of Fazil Bey’s business. Next door is Yavuz Bey and next to that Hurrem Efendi and just across the street Niyazi Bey, all serving Turkish coffee and seating customers at the same white marble tables. Buyrun!

    In Istanbul, fads burn white hot and competition can be comically ruthless. Be it coffee or mojitos, you’ll see butcher shops, bookstores and pharmacies retrofitted overnight to capitalize on the latest popular trend. We even know one (now former) barber, Suleyman, who recently hung up his shears, donned a fez and turned his barbershop into place to squeeze and sell fruit juice.

    We’re all for free enterprise and open competition, but the mushrooming of cafes on Fazil Bey’s street sets up a dangerous trap that many of us could fall into. Turkish coffee is Turkish coffee and the tables are all natural stone anyway, a visitor to this stretch of Kadikoy might think, so what could be the big difference?

    There’s only one way to find out. Patiently wait for one of those black-topped tables to open and order yourself an orta sekerli (medium sweet) and you will experience what it means to sip a truly superior coffee. At Fazil Bey, they roast their own Brazilian beans to a preferred (dark) color on the premises and grind them throughout the day into a fine powder, as Turkish coffee requires. Before even taking down the copper cezve to make a cup of coffee, Fazil Bey already has a leg up on most of the competition, who buy their coffee pre-ground from distributors.

    Freshness is a big factor but the in-house roasting is a tradition that goes back to the shop’s foundation in the 1920’s. According to Murat Celik, Fazil Bey’s roaster of thirty years, respect for this shop’s tradition is an important ingredient in a good cup. “Around here, you’ve got taxi drivers and kokorec vendors who quit that job and start making coffee,” he scoffed. “This is our grandfather’s profession.”

    At Fazil Bey we do believe the coffee is superior, but it’s the ritualistic experience here that we really enjoy. The tiny shop itself is like a sanctuary, with every nook and cranny filled with something precious and coffee-related. The intoxicating smell of fresh ground coffee wafts around the room like incense. Every detail of the service – the small metal service trays, the porcelain coffee cups with the Fazil Bey logo, small glasses of water and the square of lokum served alongside – adds up to one powerful cup of coffee. Sipping a coffee here, you can feel their respect for the coffee-making tradition and the generations that upheld it in this shop. That’s something that can’t be imitated with furniture.

    Address: Serasker Caddesi 1A, Kadikoy

    Telephone: +902164502870

    (photo by Ansel Mullins)

    via Real Turkish Coffee in Istanbul | Istanbul Eats.

  • A Story of The City: Constantinople, Istanbul – Schola Cantorum/ Ensemble Trinitas/ The New England Drums & Winds Mehterhane/ DÜNYA Ensembles – Dünya Inc. (2 CDs) – Audiophile Audition

    A Story of The City: Constantinople, Istanbul – Schola Cantorum/ Ensemble Trinitas/ The New England Drums & Winds Mehterhane/ DÜNYA Ensembles – Dünya Inc. (2 CDs) – Audiophile Audition

    A Story of The City: Constantinople, Istanbul – Schola Cantorum/ Ensemble Trinitas/ The New England Drums and Winds Mehterhane/ DÜNYA New Music Ensemble/ DÜNYA Ince Saz Ensemble/ DÜNYA Anadolu Folk Ensemble/ DÜNYA Fasil Ensemble/ DÜNYA Arabesk Ensemble/ Mehmet Ali Sanlikol, dir. – Dünya Inc. (2 CDs), 100:34 ***1/2:

    ConstantinopleAmazingly, these are Boston-based musicians who have attempted to trace the musical history of one of the greatest cities of all time over two discs, something that might seem an all too formidable challenge at first glance. But in celebration of the city’s status—and it is one of the most important in all of history, affecting the three main monotheistic religions and serving as the capital of the Roman Empire for a thousand years—it is well worth the attempt. Even though I don’t quite agree with some of the selections—it is highly unlikely that Phos hilaron (Joyful Light, one of the oldest Christian hymns) would ever have been played instrumentally, used here as an unlikely example of “Byzantine Palace” music (they could have chosen some more legitimate examples), overall the selections are well-paced and placed, and should provide much enjoyment for musical historians and those willing to stretch their ears a bit.

    Each disc takes as its theme the city itself—first Constantinople, and then Istanbul on disc two—and one could make the argument that the Constantinople section should have been longer as that name itself lasted three times as long, the Roman Empire finally falling in 1453 before the Turks took over—but this is a quibble on an otherwise fine production that stands as quite unique in the catalog. The sound is somewhat caustic at times but lowering the volume helps and ultimately it is not a problem with proper knob management. Performances are generally very good though with some of this music that might be hard to judge. This is not for everyone, but for many it will be a pleasing and ear-opening experience.

    —Steven Ritter

    via A Story of The City: Constantinople, Istanbul – Schola Cantorum/ Ensemble Trinitas/ The New England Drums & Winds Mehterhane/ DÜNYA Ensembles – Dünya Inc. (2 CDs) – Audiophile Audition.