Dancing, sightseeing, shopping and feasting make this Istanbul getaway a real Turkish delight
Three young belly dancers sashay towards us, sculpted bodies glistening as they gyrate to the music. One is a handsome young man who with a haughty flick of his head commands me to give him my hands.
To my relief – OK, maybe a little regret – I realise all he wants to do is to pour rose water over my fingers from a silver kettle.
To the Turkish delight of my husband Tom, the other two dancers are hip-swaying handmaidens carrying a silver bowl and towels so we can refresh ourselves before beginning a dinner fit for a sultan.
We’re in Nomads, one of Istanbul’s most chic and sharp night spots. Tourists and locals flock here to see acts such as body-popping belly dancer Bahar Sarah.
Only the day before Bahar was trying to teach Tom and me some of her moves as part of a unique new holiday concept.
The idea is to combine belly dancing classes with a city sightseeing break. It involves daily two-hour lessons plus trips to see all that Istanbul has to offer.
On the dancing side of things, Tom proved a complete belly flop… stumbling off in the opposite direction to the rest of the class, almost falling out of the window on to the cafe awning below.
When he breathlessly rejoined us, he tried valiantly to mimic Bahar’s hand movements but looked more like he was attempting to hang wallpaper.
“I don’t mind making an Istanfool of myself,” he quipped.
The session was great fun. Bahar broke down the difficult moves and made them easy – or at least possible.
She managed to imbue Tom with such confidence that he was first on the dance floor at Nomads.
The club provides the perfect opportunity for Bahar’s students to put their skills into practice. Those who want to also have a chance to perform in front of an audience at the end of their week’s tuition.
But do save some energy to explore the rest of Istanbul’s vibrant culture.
Smell the chestnuts roasting on street stalls, hear the haunting calls to prayer, see the dazzling displays of colourful spices and feel the 24-hour energy. This city rocks.
We were based at the Momento Hotel, just a few hundred yards from the Grand Bazaar, where 2,000 traders offer everything from rugs and jewellery to tasty delicacies. It’s aimed at tourists so prices are higher than at the more local markets, but barter hard and you can still get some bargains.
For another shopping experience, catch the tram to Kavagi, hop on the funicular to Taksim Square and then stroll down the pedestrianised thoroughfare to Tunel. To either side are dozens of streets and passages revealing yet more shops – a total mixture of market and upmarket.
Public transport is easy and cheap. Each journey on tram, funicular or ferry costs 1.75 lira (70p) one way. Just buy a token from a nearby machine.
The city’s main attractions are all within walking distance.
Perhaps its greatest treasure is the Sultan Ahmed Mosque, better known as the Blue Mosque because of the dominant colour of the tiles and mosaics inside.
It was built between 1609 and 1616 by Sultan Ahmet, who wanted to create a place of worship that would be even better than the impressive Hagia Sophia built in 360AD. These two great architectural wonders stand next to each other in Istanbul’s main square.
The Hagia Sophia is now a museum where you can learn its fascinating history for an entry fee of 20 lira (£7.75). A similar price will get you into the Museum of Turkish and Islamic Art, a former palace.
Another must-see is the Basilica Cistern, thought to date from 532AD. It’s an underground waterway once used as a reservoir. Clever spotlighting makes the water shimmer with coloured dancing lights.
Another major attraction nearby is the Topkapi Palace, which is where you can visit the famous Imperial Harem.
Istanbul is the only city in the world to straddle two continents. The European part (Rumelia) is separated from the Asian part (Anatolia) by the Bosphorus. You can cross by bridge, but it’s more fun to take a 10-minute ferry ride to the other side.
A cruise up the Bosphorus offers the chance to admire the many palaces and other treasures which line its banks.
If that’s not intoxicating enough, try Turkey’s national drink, raki. It’s known colloquially as lion’s milk… and it won’t take much to get you roaring drunk.
It is said that travellers go to Turkey for the history but stay for the food. This certainly rings true at the new restaurant Minyon, at the W Hotel, where chef Emre Capa, 27, is establishing a great reputation. A three-course meal plus wine costs around £35pp.
After dinner there we’re too full to walk far, so we take the tram. It’s packed, but Turkish chivalry towards women means I’m soon given a seat.
The locals also have great respect for age. Tom was mortified when a young woman offered him her place…
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When to go
Istanbul is a year-round destination, though summers are hot and snow is common in winter. Spring and autumn are the most popular times to visit.
Top tip
Head across the Golden Horn to the Pera district for less touristy dining and nightlife options.
Getting there
Return flights with Turkish Airlines from Gatwick or Heathrow start at £150 (flights also available from Birmingham, Manchester and Edinburgh). Book at
Getting around
One-way trip on tram, funicular or ferry costs just 1.75 lira (70p), with tickets available from machines near stops.
Book it
A two-night Dancing in Istanbul mini-break costs from £450pp including two nights’ B&B in a boutique hotel in the Old Town, two two-hour belly dancing classes, visits to the Blue Mosque, Hagia Sophia, Topkapi Palace, Grand Bazaar and a Bosphorus cruise. Or stay seven nights from £680pp.
Go to www.unisonturkey.com or call 0090 212 256 4192. More holiday options at www.orientalistanbul.org
Star quality
Next August the dance school hosts pop star Shakira’s teacher and choreographer, Bozenka. She will teach students on a seven-day visit from £906pp. See www.tinyurl.com/bozenka
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