See the highlights of two ancient civilisations with a dreamy cruise along the Bosphorus says Naomi Leach
“Lovely jubbly, that’s what the English all say, isn’t it?” I am asked for the fifth time. “No,” I assure him, only TV caricature Jamie Oliver has that catchphrase. “Yeah my British friend said it to me on the book face,” he persists and I just smile. This is the beginning of our haggling banter over Turkish delight. I am in Istanbul’s vibrant Egyptian bazaar, alone. My travel companions are lost to the endless stalls of irresistible teas, sweets and spices. I have already escaped the clutches of a market trader trying to sell me love tea and begging me for a kiss. The men here are shameless flirts, which in a way, adds to the heady energy of this ancient, ever evolving city.
A surprising 20 million people live in Istanbul, setting a frenetic pace of traffic jams and pedestrians spilling out of shisha cafes and shops. Touches of the old and the new jostle happily alongside each other, with New York style yellow taxi cabs snaking through crumbling, cobbled streets. And grizzled traders sell corn on the cob to eager tourists.
It’s a Saturday morning and I have arrived in this historic city by cruise ship. My weekend escape began at dawn on Friday, with a short Olympic Air flight from Larnaca to Athens. I was impressed with the food and rousing coffee on board which set me up for my adventure. From Athens we got a bus to Piraeus where the Louis Cristal cruise ship awaited us.
Boarding and security checks were relatively simple. We just had to relinquish our passports in exchange for a charge card and room key which provided us with access to the spa, beauty salon, gym, casino, shop, internet, jacuzzi, swimming pool and any of four restaurants on board. Travelling on a cruise ship is a decadent and relaxing way to get around. It almost feels like cheating somehow. You’re so busy enjoying the facilities you almost forget that this is the journey. As we sped towards Istanbul, I spent the afternoon exploring the 10 decks of the ship.
Nestled on the ninth floor I found a haven of indulgence – the Wellness Beauty Centre. For €59, I experienced a hot stone massage so good it would make even a keyed up, off duty soldier unwind. Incidentally, I met an American one fresh from Afghanistan in the spa foyer and he couldn’t wipe the smile off his face. It was the same everywhere I wandered on board, 1,200 passengers either laughing in the restaurants, reclining by the pool or sunbathing on the terraces.
In the evening, the Rigoletto restaurant served delicious seafood from the kitchen of famed Cypriot chef Christoforos Peskias. Each night there is a karaoke and disco at the Stars Lounge. We busted a few moves on the dance floor before capitulating to exuberant guests, who were half our ages. The older folk were socialising in the restaurants, pool bar or casino. Or watching Arabian Nights performed live.
The following morning, as we approached Istanbul along the Bosphorus, the busy, ancient waterway which marks the border between Europe and Asia, we were given a glimpse of what has captivated so many civilisations throughout history. The collision of cultures from the Byzantine Empire to the Ottoman Empire, to modern day Turkey hangs heavy in the dramatic skyline of minarets, skyscrapers and red flags fluttering in the breeze. From the top deck, the distinctive silhouette of Hagia Sophia shimmers in the distance. Up close, the enchanting museum did not disappoint.
The cavernous entrance is decorated with slices of marble and extravagant gold laced mosaics. In the main hall, light flitters through the windows of the enormous dome, to reveal the awe inspiring detail of the building. It started life in 360AD as a Greek cathedral constructed with columns recycled from Roman temples. When the Ottoman Empire rose to power in 1453, it was converted to a mosque. Now a museum, the confusing mix of both religious styles is visible as the plaster has crumbled, exposing biblical mosaics next to Arabic prayers. This staggering building took a long time to absorb and is understandably considered the finest Byzantine monument in the world.
Visitors who love eastern fabrics, ethnic lamps, pottery and beads will be overwhelmed with choice in Istanbul. There is a dizzying labyrinth of 4,500 market stalls and shops in the city. We headed for the simmering bustle of the Grand Bazaar first. Within half an hour, I was swathed in a deep turquoise silk scarf, despite the 36 degree heat. I was proudly wearing the beautiful piece of craftsmanship I had managed to haggle down to a disgracefully low price.
Nar Lokanta in the city centre is an art gallery and museum showcasing Ottoman era costumes. Hidden on the fifth floor of this stylish building is a roof garden and restaurant. Here we enjoyed local Turkish cuisine of hunkar begende, stewed chunks of beef with artichoke and aubergine. This was followed by Mastic flavoured rice pudding.
Our next stop was the Chora Museum, which is out of the city centre. If you are on the Byzantine trail during your trip, then you shouldn’t miss the detailed gold murals and frescoes in this 11th century church. If you’re on a spiritual visit, you can meet the leader of the Ecumenical Patriarchy at St George’s church in the city too.
Before returning to the cruise ship, I went to the Egyptian spice market then later stocked up on baklava at Karakoy Gulluoglu, which has been making the sweet treats since 1820. We ate these on board while watching a hazy amber glow suffuse the city. The Muslim call to prayer lilted hypnotically in the distance, as the sun set over Istanbul.
Sunday morning was spent rippling through the azure waters at 18 knots. Some guests (but not me unfortunately) saw dolphins dancing alongside the boat. After lunch, Izmir came into view, a dense city of skyscrapers, beside the sea. For those interested in the history of Greeks in Turkey, Izmir like Istanbul, proved an emotional stop. Just a handful of decrepit houses in traditional Greek style remain in this city. Quaint horse drawn carriages parading along the seafront jar with the backdrop of high rise buildings and malls. In Turkey’s third largest city, we whiled away a Sunday afternoon in a backstreet cafe and gorged on cheese and honey pastries, washed down with a strong menthol tea.
That night, we entered Greek waters and a celebratory mood erupted. Traditional Greek food was served in the restaurants and a Greek dancing show was performed to a packed out audience in the theatre. Once the show ended a long night of traditional Greek dancing ensued. With arms out stretched and animated gesticulation, young and old alike swelled on to the stage and dance floor. Before limping away to bed, I went for a stroll, alone, on the top deck. It was breathtaking looking out into the black abyss, pierced only with a few stars and the frothing waves below.
At 7.30am we waved goodbye to the cruise ship at Laviron Port and got a coach into Athens. I’d expected a Monday morning in this busy city to be chaotic especially with recent protests but we arrived in Syntagma square and it was empty. The ancient city was hauntingly quiet and could be appreciated all the more greedily since there were few tourists to share it with. Walking away from the opulent banks and luxury hotels to the main shopping streets, there were endless sales, a testament to the country’s current sorry economic state. Amid the jumble of ancient ruins, were pretty bohemian cafes and luxury department stores. As I observed the quiet beauty of the city, sipping on a frappe, with the Parthenon overhead, I could appreciate the contrast of these two countries which have influenced Cyprus. After a morning of shopping, we checked in at Athens airport and boarded an Olympic Air flight back to Larnaca.
Taking an attraction packed journey between Athens and Istanbul, showcased the highlights of two cultures. By cruising between these two enchanting lands, you’re given a unique sense of travelling the region, in just a weekend. Experiencing the Bosphorus waterway between Europe and Asia is still as compelling, as in ancient times.
Getting there
Olympic Air flight from Larnaca to Athens return €220 (at time of booking)
www.olympicair.com
Louis 4 day Cruise from Pereas to Istanbul to Izmir and Athens €480 (food all inclusive)
www.louiscruise.com
Attractions
Hagia Sophia Museum www.muze.gov.tr
Chora Museum www.muze.gov.tr
Shops
Cashmere and Scarves Shootosh and Home Textiles, Sandal Bedestan Sk, No 15 Grand Bazaar Beyazit
Melissa Baharat, Misir Carsisi Ici No.22 Eminonu, Egyptian Bazaar
Food and Drink
Nar Lokanta, Nuruosmaniye Caddessi, No.65, Istanbul www.narlokantasi.com
Bunya-Nin Tadi Karakoy Gulluoglu