A Soft Spot for Turkish Goat-Milk Ice Cream

By FLORENCE FABRICANT

The very notion of goat-milk ice cream is uncommon enough. But Sophia Brittan, below, churns into even more exotic territory with her Turkish-style goat-milk ice cream at Victory Garden, in Greenwich Village.

Street vendors in Istanbul sell ice cream called dondurma that they work into improbably elastic strands, almost like mozzarella, thanks to the addition of salep, a wild orchid root. Ms. Brittan’s version comes in three flavors: vanilla, herbal and, the sweetest of the three, mastic, a kind of natural gum used in the eastern Mediterranean.

For her soft-serve goat-milk ice cream, without salep, the flavors include herbs with pistachio, rose, tangy plain and mastic, in addition to dark chocolate, vanilla, coffee and salted caramel. Sundaes with herb, nut and flower toppings are also sold.

Victory Garden, 31 Carmine Street (Bleecker Street); (212) 206-7273. Turkish-style dondurma ice cream is $5 for a serving. Soft-serve goat-milk ice creams are $3 for mini, $4.50 for regular and $5.25 for large with a topping.

via A Soft Spot for Turkish Goat-Milk Ice Cream – Food Stuff – NYTimes.com.